Wine review — Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Kingston Estate & Lillypilly

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $19 to  $25
Two years ago I was fortunate to taste the entire sequence of Wynns Coonawarra cabernet’s from Ian Hickinbotham’s inaugural 1954 vintage (still drinking well) through to barrel samples of the 2003 and 2004 vintages. Clearly the wine has an extraordinary pedigree. And, fittingly, we see in the fiftieth vintage, the just released 2003, all the familiar hallmarks of varietal purity, flavour depth and complexity. But it also shows the more velvety tannins and increasing finesse of recent vintages under the stewardship of Sue Hodder. It’s an excellent cellaring wine and already it’s being offered around town at a ridiculous $18.99. You can’t go wrong.

Kingston Estate South Australia Shiraz 2005 $10 to $13
Kingston Estate is a significant, privately owned producer located on the Murray River, South Australia, but sourcing grapes widely from the State’s premium growing areas. This 2005 shiraz, for example is a blend from the Adelaide Plains and Clare Valley. The combination delivers pleasingly fresh, ripe varietal flavours of considerable depth and richness for a wine at this price. Eight months in oak added some sympathetic woody flavours but, more importantly, it aided the mellow, red-wine structure. This is an outstanding budget red from Bill Moularadellis, second-generation proprietor of Kingston Estate.

Lillypilly Riverina Chardonnay 2005 $14 to $16
Lillypilly winemaker/proprietor, Robert Fiumara, is perhaps best known for a range of excellent dessert wines, made and grown in the Riverina region. However, this dry chardonnay really appealed at a recent tasting. It’s well removed from the big, peachy style usually seen from the district and I’m not sure whether that’s in the making or in the fruit from this mild vintage. It certainly has a touch of peach-like varietal flavour. But instead of the usual fatness, there’s a tangy, citrus-like freshness and a pleasantly tart bite in the finish.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2006 & 2007

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