All posts by Chris Shanahan

Wine review – Gallagher, Mount Majura, Four Winds Vineyard

Gallagher Canberra District Riesling 2017 $35
Gallagher 2017 beat 519 rieslings from seven countries to be named best wine in October’s Canberra International Riesling Challenge. The wine also won awards as best dry riesling, best Australian riesling and best from the Canberra District. In comparison, judges at the recent Canberra and Region Wine Show struggled with Canberra’s 2017 vintage rieslings, awarding a miserly one gold medal in a field of 30, with a bronze to Gallagher’s wine. The Riesling Challenge judges got it right for this exciting, vivid dry riesling. Greg Gallagher sourced the fruit from Briar Ridge and other Murrumbateman vineyards. To be released mid December.

Mount Majura Canberra District Riesling 2017 $29
Winemaker Frank van de Loo captures the spirit of Canberra riesling, writing: “Ah, riesling! White blossom and lemon essence, along with the indefinable riesling-ness that is somewhere between aniseed, cold steel and crushed herbs. Purity and delicacy to the fore. We love its delicacy, fragrance and personality”. His 2017 reveals all those virtues in a style that can be enjoyed now in its vibrant youth, or savoured over the years as it grows deeper and more textured with age. Winner of gold medals at the NSW Wine Awards and Royal Melbourne Wine Show.

Four Winds Vineyard Riesling 2017 $25
By a small margin my favourite of the rieslings reviewed today comes from Four Winds Vineyard, Murrumbateman. Graeme and Suzanne Lunney planted the vineyard in 1998 and 1999 to supply Hardys. Today, daughter Sarah Collingwood manages the business while husband John Collingwood tends the vineyard; daughter Jaime Crowe and husband Bill Crowe make the wines on site at a separate business, Highside Winemaking. The family’s 2017 riesling appeals for the intensity of its lime-like varietal flavour and brisk, invigorating acidity. Judges at the prestigious 2017 Winewise Small Vignerons Awards named it top wine of the show.

Mount Majura Canberra District Tempranillo 2016 $45
Mount Majura tests a range of varieties, including Spain’s tempranillo, which produced lovely wine from the very first vintage in 2003. It sustained the performance and at this year’s Canberra and Region Wine Show won the “Wine of Provenance” award for the outstanding quality of three vintages tasted side by side: 2015, 2009 and 2004. The just-released 2016 offers a limpid, crimson colour, highly perfumed aromatics, combining red berries and deeper savoury notes. The buoyant palate reflects the aroma. It combines fresh, lively young fruit flavours, which make the palate deliciously fleshy, with underlying black-olive-like savour and satisfying, firm tannins.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017
First published 31 October 2017 in the Canberra Times

Wine review – Gundog Estate, Swinging Bridge, Freeman

Gundog Estate Canberra District Shiraz 2016 $40
Under winemaker Matt Burton, Hunter-based Gundog Estate makes wines from Canberra District fruit and also operates a cellar door in the Grazing complex, Gundaroo. Burton’s 2016 Canberra shiraz, from the Dahlberg vineyard Murrumbateman, shows the opulent fruit character of this early, warm vintage. It remains, however, a medium bodied red, in the Canberra mould, featuring ripe, dark-berry flavours, layered with spice, with fine but abundant, soft tannins.

Swinging Bridge Orange District #006 Experiment Series 2016 $29.75–$35
Winemaker Tom Ward’s experimental #006 blend combines two of the world’s great individual red varieties, tempranillo and pinot noir. Why? Well, says Ward, at 900-metres, tempranillo makes wine with varietal aroma and flavour but the palate lacks the flesh to balance the variety’s strong tannins. Pinot noir (39 per cent of the blend) brings fruit sweetness and flesh to the palate, successfully offsetting these tannins. A delicious wine, #006 combines vibrant, plush fruit with spice and tempranillo’s distinctive savoury, tannic finish.

Swinging Bridge Mrs Payten Orange District Chardonnay 2016 $27.20–$32
The high country of southern NSW, Canberra included, produces a diversity of wine styles, largely dependent on altitude-determined growing and ripening temperatures. The cool slopes of Mount Canobolas, Orange, produces intensely flavoured chardonnay like Mrs Payten. Sourced from a couple of vineyards at around 900-metres, the barrel-fermented wine offers powerful flavours at a modest 12.8 per cent alcohol. Grapefruit- and nectarine-like varietal flavours underpin a racy, shimmering, fresh palate with exceptional drink-now or cellaring potential.

Freeman Hilltops Prosecco 2017 $23
During a downturn in Hilltops region vineyard prices, Dr Brian Freeman has been adding to what is now a 175-hectare estate, “within a radius of 10 kilometres on a 560-metre ridge”, he writes. Freeman’s Italian grape varieties include prosecco, the grape behind north-eastern Italy’s delicate sparkling wine of the same name. Freeman’s Aussie version, released shortly after vintage each year, captures the juicy freshness of the grape, boosted by bubbles and pleasantly tart acidity.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017
First published 3 October 2017 in the Canberra Times

True brew – Capital opens Fyshwick brewery and tap house

Capital Brewing Co’s bar, made of antique oregon, sourced from Thor’s Hammer, Yarralumla, ACT. Photo Chris Shanahan.

Like a captain on a ship’s bridge, brewer Wade Hurley turns from the glowing instrument panel, steps across the metal control deck, and pours hops into the gleaming steel kettle. The steaming vessel digests the bitter green pellets. Instantly, pungent hop aromas join the heady, sweet smell of warm barley malt in Capital Brewing Co’s Fyshwick brewery.

The brewery and taphouse opens to the public on Saturday 9 September, 17 months after Capital released its first beers into the Canberra market. Until the Fyshwick brewery fired up in August, Hurley made the beers in Sydney, “Mainly at Hairyman Brewing, Caringbah”, says Capital director Nick Hislop.

Co-founder Laurence Kain said, “It’s phenomenal to think that in only a little over 12 months, the support for our beers has allowed us to put down our own bricks, mortar and lots and lots of stainless steel, allowing us to make our beer right here in this place we love”.

Chris Nixon designed a mural–infographic depicting how beer is brewed

The American equipped brewery is located in Molonglo Group’s Dairy Road District, near the Dairy Road–Monaro Highway underpass. The near 20-thousand-metre complex will ultimately accommodate scores of tenants, including Barrio Collective coffee roasters, Vertikal Indoor Snow Sports’ three indoor ski slopes, and Bloc Haus climbing gym.

Inside the brewery a spacious taphouse for up to 200 guests occupies the area between the entrance and the brewing equipment, located on an elevated concrete platform. The taphouse’s long bar – “Made of recycled Oregon timber from Thor’s Hammer [Yarralumla]”, says Hislop – forms the left boundary of the public area.

In the middle, a large log fire welcomes winter visitors. Overhead electric heaters, suspended from the steel roof towering above, radiate more heat into this vast but hospitable industrial space.

In the brewing area, Wade Hurley moves back and forth between the elevated control deck, with its access to the kettle, and four stainless steel tanks in soldier line on the concrete floor.

Uni-tanks and and a bright tank ready for action. Photo: Chris Shanahan

Three 5,000-litre uni tanks (cylindrical at top, conical at bottom) accommodate beer under ferment or being conditioned. And at the end of the line, a cylindrical 5,000-litre bright tank holds finished beer ready for kegging or canning.

Stacked rows of empty kegs stand ready to be filled as the new brews take shape under Hurley’s guidance.

Vacant space beside the tanks, “Will eventually accommodate two 10,000-litre uni tanks and a canning line”, says Nick Hislop. Laurence Kain adds, “We currently have a mobile canning line running flat out ahead of our opening. But we’ll set up our own, probably after the summer rush when we can do it properly”.

As Hurley fired the brewery up to capacity ahead of the 9 September opening, he busily kegged and canned the new brews as quickly as they flowed through to the bright tank.

Hurley – head hunted from San Diego by Capital founders Tom Hertel, Laurence Kain, Nick Hislop,  and Richard and Sam Coombes – says, “I love having my own brewery at last. It’s just great”.

He took time out to describe Capital’s regular beers and a few made especially for the 9 September launch.

Coast Ale (4.3% alcohol)
Hurley models Coast Ale on California’s easy drinking ‘common ale’ style: malty, fresh and clean with the invigorating bitterness of Hallertau, Saaz and Dr Rudi hops.

Trail Pale Ale (4.7% alcohol)
Tail Pale Ale leads with floral hoppy characters, with underlying sweet malt and balancing hops bitterness. Hops: Cascade and Galaxy.

Evil Eye Red IPA (5.8% alcohol)
Turn up the volume. Though tame by current IPA standards, Evil Eye, at 5.8% alcohol, provides full-bodied drinking, led by aromatic hops, with a quaffable balance of fruit, malt and bitterness. Hops: Columbus, Topaz, Pacifica, Southern Cross, Motueka, US Cascade, and fresh Cascade hops grown at Batlow.

First Tracks Stout (5.2% alcohol)
This winter-warming stout combines dark-roasted barley malt, oatmeal, fresh coffee beans and “cold-drip” coffee. Tasted on tap at The Duxton, O’Connor, it revealed coffee and roasted-grain aroma and flavours with a soft, zesty, warming palate, mild bitterness and lingering coffee aftertaste.

Springboard American Wheat (5.0% alcohol)
Springboard uses American yeast in a US-inspired variation on German wheat beer – with a salute, via the addition of spices and mandarin, to a Belgian style.

Old Man River Barley Wine (10.2% alcohol)
Barley wine gets its name from its strength. However, being brewed from malted grain, it’s beer, albeit full bodied, smooth and malty.

Baby Brown Ale (3.5% alcohol)
Provides mid-strength drinking, with the malty richness of brown ale and, “Some hops, but not very bitter”, says Hurley.

Rock Hopper IPA
Hurley calls Rock Hopper “Big on hops – all American, fruity hops, with an IBU of around 50 [a measure of bitterness] – amarillo, centennial Chinook and citra, added during the boil and dry hopped.

Hoppy Pils (about 5% alcohol)
With Hoppy Pils, Hurley set out, using German Pilsner malt, to make a, “Clean, crisp, dry, noble-hopped Pilsen style showcasing hops from around the world. It’ll be big like Pilsen Urquell, but not as fruity”, he says.

At a pre-launch function in August, Laurence Kain announced, “One of the most exciting elements we’re pleased to announce today is our collaboration with the legendary Brodburger, so you’ll be able to enjoy some of Canberra’s best beer with Canberra’s best burgers”.

The beer hall – a courtyard with views to the brewery inside. Photo: Chris Shanahan

Beer, burgers and Brod dogs will be available in the 200-person capacity taproom, a 100-person rear courtyard–beer hall, with kid’s cubbyhouse; and in a 300-person beer garden near the front entrance.

Like other small brewers in Canberra, Capital aims to minimise its environmental impact.

A 60,000-litre tank provides water for the gardens. And all wastewater goes to a catchment tank for clean up before being discharged. “It’s more than compliant”, says Nick Hislop.

He says, “The solids we extract from wastewater goes in with spent grain and hops for cattle feed. The Claystone Stud, Hoskinstown, collects it from us. They’ve got Black Angus and Herefords. Hopefully one day we can buy the beef and serve it here with our beer, completing the cycle”.

Capital Brewing Co opens at Dairy Road, Fyshwick, on Saturday 9 September. Trading hours are Wednesday to Thursday 4–10pm. Friday to Sunday noon til late.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017
First published 5 September 2017 in the Canberra Times  and goodfood.com.au

Wine review – Four Winds Vineyard, Clonakilla

Four Winds Vineyard Tom’s Block Shiraz 2015 $75
The release of Tom’s Block 2015 coincided with a couple of gongs for Four Winds’ new photography series labels from the UK’s Harpers Design Awards. The label does justice to a remarkable wine, sourced from a special block of vines dedicated to the late Tom Lunney, son of Four Winds’ founders. This is intense Canberra shiraz from a great vintage – saturated with spicy varietal flavour, bound with strong, supple tannins.

Clonakilla Canberra District Riesling 2017 $32–$38
In a Canberra Times interview on 22 March, winemaker Bryan Martin said Clonakilla had picked the last of its riesling that day. Ahead of the wine’s September release, Tim Kirk said, “Riesling parcels had a pH below 3.0 with 8–9 grams of titratable acidity at 12.0 Baume – perfect numbers”. Kirk’s winemaking jargon translates to a scrumptious dry riesling with vivid, lemon-like varietal flavour, intensified by the taut, zingy dryness of the naturally high acidity.

Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2016 $28–$35
Tim Kirk sources fruit for his biggest selling red wine from five vineyards around the town of Young in NSW’s Hilltops region. Though slightly warmer than Canberra, Hilltops produces shiraz of a comparable, if slightly fuller style. The 2016 vintage pleases with its fruity–spicy fragrance, medium body, juicy palate and gentle, fine tannins. The wine will easily keep for a decade or so in a good cellar. But I doubt it will ever give greater drinking pleasure than it does right now with vibrance and fruit at full throttle.

Four Winds Vineyard Canberra District Shiraz 2016 $30
Four Winds Vineyard’s follow up to its gold-medal winning 2015 vintage nicely captures the fragrance, medium body and vibrance of Canberra’s shiraz style. While the 2015 offered denser, more concentrated fruit and more solid tannin, the 2016 is all fruit, spice, softness and seduction. Delicate, ripe, red-berry-like fruit flavours, combine with spice and fine tannins in a style well suited to casual warm weather dining.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017
First published 29 August 2017 in the Canberra Times and goodfood.com.au

Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet – 60 vintages tasted

Tasting Wynns Cabernet – vintages 1954 to 2017

Wynns Winemakers Sarah Pidgeon (left) and Sue Hodder, with vineyard manager Allen Jenkins. The three presided over one of the greatest vineyard and winemaking makeovers in Australian history.

A sixty-vintage tasting of Wynns Coonawarra Estate cabernet sauvignon on 12 and 13 July 2017 proved the amazing beauty and keeping power of this great Aussie red. Not that this was any news to the tasters. Many of us gathered at Wynns had participated in a similar tasting in 2004 – and we’d drawn the same conclusion: Wynns makes one of the world’s best, and best value, cabernets.

The 2004 tasting propelled winemaker Sue Hodder and vineyard manage Allen Jenkins, further into their long-term project of finessing an already proven wine style. In particular, the elegant beauty of the 1960s wines inspired Hodder.

At this year’s tasting we yet again marvelled at the older wines, many of which tasted much as they had 13 years earlier. More importantly, though, the tasting allowed us to appraise the new wines now so clearly benefiting from all the vineyard and winemaking changes Hodder and Jenkins so thoughtfully implemented from 2000.

The links below give details of those changes. I elaborate on them in my tasting notes below.

Tasting Wynns John Riddoch 1982–1999 (15 November 2004)

Fifty years of Wynns Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon (28 Nov and  5 Dec 2004)

How Sue Hodder’s history lesson improved Wynns Coonawarra reds (4 July 2007)

Wynns Coonawarra – great winemaking but the marketing sucks (11 June 2008)

Wynns unleashes Coonawarra’s diversity (1 September 2010)

Wynns Coonawarra – snapshots of the great terra rossa (8 September 2010)

Wynns Michael Shiraz – a triumphant evolution (11 February 2017)

1954–1959

The colour of age: Wynns Cooonawarra Cabernet 1954 to 1959.Photo: Chris Shanahan.

With the exception of the 1955 and 1956 vintages, Wynns cabernet sauvignons from 1954 to 1962 were labelled ‘cabernet’, not ‘cabernet sauvignon’. The 1955 and 1956 wines, blends of cabernet sauvignon (80%) and shiraz (20%), were labelled ‘claret’, consistent with Australian generic labelling of the time. In the 1950s, noted winemaker Sarah Pidgeon, Coonawarra grew more shiraz than it did cabernet sauvignon.

From 1954 to 1964 the labels were white. The black label, which ultimately became the wine’s name, first appeared on the 1965 vintage.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1954
Mid, limpid colour, brown at the rim; warm, sweet, earth, mushroom and chocolate-like aroma; elegant, refined old palate reflecting the aroma; still sweet and juicy with varietal character. Lovely, harmonious old red. Note, two bottles opened for the group, Huon Hooke (born 1954) led the discussion of the fifties vintages noted his bottle not in as good condition as the one I tasted from.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Claret (Cabernet Sauvignon—Shiraz) 1955
Similar colour to the 1954; sharper, more aged aroma; faded power here, still with intense flavour but a little tart and drying out. It doesn’t have the harmony of the 1954, but it’s still a delight to drink, albeit fading. The other bottle was apparently fresher.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Claret (Cabernet Sauvignon—Shiraz) 1956
A tone lighter in colour than the 1954 or 1955; aged, autumn-leaf aroma with a pungent edge, but still with old-cupboard charm; soft, sweet and gentle on the palate, with an elegant structure and fine, lingering finish. Light but lovely.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1957
Brown rim, a shade darker than 1956, but comparatively light in the line up. Less volume of aroma than 1954–56, earthy, savoury and aged – all the old, earthy elements, then a dry, quite tannic palate, firmer than 1954–56. Less ripe in flavour.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1958
Deeper hue than preceding wines; very old, chocolaty aroma of extreme age; very full, round palate – plusher than 1954–57 wines, with quite strong, firm tannins. Drying out, but with a trace of sweet fruit still there.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1959
Light to medium colour with brown rim; highly aromatic, reminiscent of old leather and autumn leaf, with a tart punch; elegant structure, intense palate with lingering aged and chocolaty aftertaste – fine tannins in harmony with the sweet, aged fruit. Wonderful old wine, with a touch of Coonawarra mint in the aftertaste.

1960–1969

The early vintages wore white; the black label arrived in 1965 and the name changed from ‘cabernet’ to ‘cabernet sauvignon’.

No cabernet sauvignon wine was produced in 1961 (frost) and 1963 (wet). Vintages 1960, 1962 and 1964 bore the word ‘cabernet’ on a white label. The 1965 vintage was the first to bear the black label and the full varietal name ‘cabernet sauvignon’.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1960
Deep colour with brown rim; aged varietal aroma, both earthy and sweet; aged but vibrant palate with deep, sweet fruit, lively acid and assertive cabernet tannins all in harmony. Fresher on the palate than the aroma suggested.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1961
A frost year, not produced.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1962
Slightly lighter colour than 1960, brown at rim; warm and inviting aromas combining sweet fruit and a patina of autumn-leaf and other aged characters; elegant palate, finely balancing acid, tannin and intense fruit. A gorgeous old beauty.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1963
A wet growing season, not produced.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet 1964
A shade darker than the 1962, brown at rim; sharp, thrusting aroma revealing great age; the palate reflects the aroma – tannins now outweigh the fruit, and there’s a green, unripe note too. This was the driest season of the decade.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1965
Deepest colour of the 1960–65 group, brown at rim; chocolate-like aroma of age with a sniff of decay; big, tannic palate, tannin edging out the fruit. A powerful wine, now in decline.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1966 (magnum)
Deep colour, but a shade lighter than the 1965; a harmony of fruit and age on both nose and plate and so fresh for its age. Long aftertaste. A great wine.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1967
Similar depth of colour to the 1966, perhaps a little more brown at the rim; the aroma combines aged character with freshness; the palate is fuller and rounder than the 1966, with a solid bite of tannin taking over the finish.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1968
Similar hue to 1966 and 1967; the aroma combines surprising fresh Coonawarra berry character, overlaid with age and a touch of mint; the berry and age characters flow through to the palate, along with a firm bite of tannin.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Claret Cabernet Sauvignon Hermitage 1969
Aged colour; some sweet, inviting elements in the aroma, but the palate seems all tannin and oxidation. (A co-fermented cabernet sauvignon and shiraz (at the time also known in Australia as ‘hermitage’. A poor year).

1970–1979

Sue Hodder says there were young vineyards contributing in this decade. Allen Jenkins calls it the wettest of the decades in review, meaning leafier canopies as a result of the higher rainfall. 1976 experienced the warmest flowering, setting the season up well. He says, ‘1978 was another average season, the sort we now look out for as a good year’.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1970
Medium depth of colour, brown at the rim; aroma of berry, mint, cedar and aged character; medium-bodied, ageing palate, still with fruit, but slightly outweighed by tannin.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1971
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; exuberant aroma combining fruit and age; lively, vigorous palate of sweet fruit and age in harmony with both high acid and assertive tannin.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1972
Medium to deep colour, brown at rim; warm, decaying aroma of age; a little sweet fruit on the palate but not enough to hold off the tannin, leaving the palate hollow and the finish to acid and tannin.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1973
Medium to deep colour, brown at rim; aged but fresh aroma, showing berries, leaf, and a mellow, earthy, sweet, character of age; sweet fruit tempered by age dominate a fine, firm, harmonious palate.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1974
Medium to deep colour, brown at rim; an initial impression of darker fruits than in the other 1970s wines, but also signs of decay; the palate is full but hot and dominated by tannin as the fruit slips from sight.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1975
Medium to deep colour, brown at rim; warm, ripe aromas of earth, age and sweet black-olive-like varietal aroma; the palate combines sweet fruit, age and firm tannins, with the tannins now dominant but overwhelming.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1976
The first bottle was not in good shape. It revealed a big wine in which tannin outweighed fading fruit. A second bottle served at dinner that night (alongside Chateau Latour 1975), drank beautifully – showing great perfume, power and supple, deep fruit in harmony with its tannins. One of the best.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1977
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; leafy, aged aroma; lean, austere palate, albeit with a lick of fruit, though subservient to the tannin.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1978
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; big, chocolaty aroma with leafy and aged character; full bodied in this line up, but the palate is hollow and tannins take over the finish.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1979
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; aged, chocolaty aroma with something tart and tangy pushing through; a big palate, with more sweet fruit than in the 1977 or 1978. But without flavour concentration, the fruit rolls over to the tannin.

Wynns’ gables, built by Coonawarra founder John Riddoch.

1980–1989

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1980
Medium colour, watery brown at the rim; herbaceous, vegetal, unripe aroma; a skerrick of sweet fruit on the palate gives way to tart acid, consistent with the aroma, then firm, hard tannins.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1981
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; aged aroma combing both ripe and herbaceous fruit; big, sweet, round and juicy palate with mild tannins.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1982
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; aroma of ripe berries, overlaid with sweet, aged character; generous, sweet, plush palate, still with lively berry flavours, though overlaid with lovely, mellow aged characters. Elegant, harmonious palate with lovely tannins complementing the fruit. One of the best.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1983
Deep colour, brown at the rim; earthy, savoury, aged aroma, with leafy cabernet sauvignon character; aged character and firm tannin lead the palate, with a mere skerrick of sweet fruit remaining.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1984
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; leafy cabernet sauvignon and berry combo in the aroma; fresh, acidic palate with leafy flavours, then lean, unripe tannins.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1985
Deep colour, brown at the rim; big, savoury aroma, a little oxidised; big palate with sweet, ripe fruit at the core, then loads of tannin slightly outweighing the fruit, though no overwhelming it.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1986
Deep colour, more brick red than brown at the rim; lifted, sweet, multi-dimensional aroma, with oak, fruit and age – volatile acidity noticeable and probably accounts for some of the aroma’s buoyancy; the palate reflects the aroma in its liveliness, though burly tannins, probably derived from both fruit and oak, detract from what may have been an outstanding wine.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1987
Medium to deep colour, more brick red than brown at the rim; attractive aroma combining ripe berry, age and leaf; sweet fruit is at the core of a big, tannic wine, albeit not so overwhelming as in the 1986.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1988
Deep colour with more brick red than brown at the rim; big, ripe aroma combining freshness with age; ripe, sweet fruit on the big palate, followed by similar burly tannins seen in the last few wines. There’s a winemaking style running through these vintages.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1989
Medium to deep colour, more brick red than brown at the rim; attractive, sweet aroma combines fruit, oak and age; after a run of tannic wines, the 1989 presents a gentle, comparatively soft palate; cabernet and oak tannins nevertheless provide structure, but without overwhelming the fruit or becoming a dominate feature. A surprise for such an unsung vintage.

1990–1999

Sue Hodder described the, ‘Many heralded vintages in this decade’, while Allen Jenkins saw the period as, ‘Even in temperature, more so than the other [decades] and drier. A dream decade’.

In a discussion after we tasted this bracket, Jeremy Oliver suggested tannin had been added to the wines. Sue Hodder countered that the tannin had been fruit and oak derived, noting the oak Wynns used in the 90s was, ‘Not a patch on what it is now’.

She added, ‘We were compelled to make as full a body as possible as medium bodied reds were not then accepted’. She went on, ‘The wines were forced a bit’. In an attempt to get away from green flavour, fruit was given greater hang time than it once had, which meant a higher pH and less brightness.

Sue noted that in the 90s oak comprised roughly 20% new across the decade, with an American oak influence in the first half. She lobbied for and got French – but was not anti-American. It simply didn’t suit Wynns wines.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1990
Deep red colour to the rim, with little sign of ageing; aroma of ripe plum, black olive and a warm, earthy, ageing character; clear, varietal cassis-like flavour in an intense palate of great vitality, with firm varietal tannins in harmony with the fruit. One of the best.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1991
Similar colour and hue to the 1990; mellow, warm, aged aroma with notes of chocolate and mint; sweet, harmonious palate, vibrant and fresh despite the age, with a fine, elegant structure. A wonderful contrast in style to the 1990 and of a similar stature.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1992
Medium to deep colour, more brick red than brown at rim; aged aroma without the freshness of 1990 or 1991; big palate, dominated by tannin, despite a vein of underlying fruit.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1993
Medium to deep colour, brown at the rim; warm, chocolate and leafy aroma with earthy, aged character; high acid, high tannin palate, looking tired and dried out.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
Medium to deep red, some signs of age at the rim; berry, leaf and age in the aroma; medium bodied, fresh and appealing palate of sweet berry flavours and age, with a modest bite of tannin in the finish.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1995
Deep brick red colour, some signs of age at the rim; big, black-olive and cassis aroma with an overlay of oak; full-bodied, round – a matrix of fruit, oak and tannin, with tannin ascendant.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1996
Deep red, still youthful at the rim; gorgeous floral aroma – a complex of fruit and age; lively palate, saturated with sweet, succulent fruit, held firmly by cabernet tannins. One of the best, with years ahead of it. We were served two glasses – one from bottle, the other from magnum. The condition of the wine in the two bottles varied. For some of us, the wine from the better bottle proved to be in better condition than wine from the magnum.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
Deep colour, ageing at the rim; spiky, very old aromas; still has sweet fruit on the palate, though the tannins sweep through and dominate.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
Deep colour with youthful tone at the rim; lovely, inviting aroma of ripe plum and dark berries, with subtle aged notes; ripe, plush palate, supple and pulsing with life; firm tannins grip the fruit in a potentially long-lived cabernet. One of the best.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Deep colour with youthful tone at the rim; lifted, sweet-fruited aroma – lovely, classy cabernet sauvignon with a little age; subtle, elegant palate of deep, sweet fruit, interwoven harmoniously with firm tannin. One of the best – and an elegant contrast to the bigger 1998 (reminiscent of the 1990—1991 pairing).

2000–2015

Tasters at work, Wynns Coonawarrra Estate. Photo: Chris Shanahan.

In this period, Sue Hodder’s study of older Wynns vintages led to dramatic vineyard renewal and a new purpose-built winery. Greater control of fruit quality and harvesting time, backed by a winery capable of handling multiple small fruit batches, lifted wine quality.

Use of oak changed for the better as Sue’s team appraised barrels of differing sizes from various forests and coopers. She then designed maturation regimes for each of the Wynns wines. This work is ongoing – for example, the just-released 2015 Black Label was matured partly in 3000-litre vats, much as the earliest vintages were.

Winemaker Sarah Pidgeon described the oak quest as, ‘An epic journey to get the balance right’. The progression from 2000 to the present sought coopers whose barrels, ‘Push up our fruit’.

The introduction of the screw-cap seals from the 2006 vintage eliminated perhaps the most egregious risk to wines intended for long-term cellaring. As we saw time and again in this 60-vintage tasting and a similar event in 2004, cork-related oxidation, meant wide variability in the condition of the wines we tasted. As two bottles of each wine were required for the tasting, for any vintage some in the group tasted excellence, while others suffered a lesser bottle. This proved dramatically so with the 1954 vintage. Future drinkers won’t encounter this problem with wines made from 2006.

After we tasted this bracket, Huon Hooke asked Sue Hodder about the acidity, ‘Which is so even in these wines’.

Sue said the wines now require less acid adjustment than in the past thanks to improved canopy management, earlier ripening and earlier picking. After previous winemaker Peter Douglas left, she felt compelled to continue making big wines. But inspired by the wines of the 1960s, she moved to a medium-bodied style. ‘It was a long journey in vineyard and winery’, she said.

Winemaker Sarah Pidgeon commented on even greater control of fruit. In the 2015 vintage, she said, Wynns commissioned a berry-sorting machine of a style used in Europe and Western Australia for some time.

Berry sorting further improved the evenness and quality of fruit going into the wines.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Medium to deep colour, still red at the rim; fresh, bright, youthful aroma of red berries, overlaid with age; the palate reflects the aroma, with a structure based on comparatively high acid and fine, firm tannins.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Medium to deep colour, youthfully red at the rim; ripe, plummy aroma with a touch of leaf, black olive and age; vibrant palate, with intense, ripe fruit flavour meshed with firm tannins, all in harmony, with finesse.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002|
Medium to deep colour with, signs of age at the rim; warm, plummy, maturing aroma, with an earthy, autumn-leaf character; luscious palate – mature and earthy but with life and fruit, then fine tannins sweeping through on the finish.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Medium to deep colour, signs of age at the rim; sweet, aged aroma with a lick of oak still apparent; full palate, but the fruit struggles to push through the substantial tannins.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Deep colour, with vibrant red, still youthful rim; fresh, ripe-berry, varietal aroma – very even and balanced with the first signs of aged character adding complexity; vibrant palate reflects the aroma – pure, cabernet flavour, supple and sweet is cocooned in fine but assertive tannins. One of the best.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Deep brick red with first signs of age at the rim; leafy, aged aroma; on the palate vibrant fruit wrestles with strong tannin, the latter winning at this stage, but by no means overwhelming the fruit.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Medium deep, still youthfully red at the rim; ripe, fresh aroma, combining plum- and black olive-like varietal character with maturation character; supple, full, fruity palate of considerable depth with a nicely balanced load of cabernet tannins. Neither young nor aged, but has long cellaring potential.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Deep colour with vibrant, youthful rim; deep, sweet, plummy aroma, with fruit to the fore, although there’s much more to it; the vibrant palate is saturated with varietal flavour, meshed harmoniously with firm, fine tannins. One of the best, and barely into its long evolution.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Deep colour with crimson rim; big, rich, sweet-fruited aroma; fleshy, plush fruit floods the opulent, firm, tannic palate. From a hot year, this is at the bigger end of the Coonawarra cabernet style, but it’s harmonious and built to last.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Deep colour with crimson rim; deep, dark fruits in the aroma, with a touch of sweet oak; big, opulent, warm palate with alcoholic heat taking the edge off the fruit – a comparative block buster, finishing with very strong tannins.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Deep colour with vibrant crimson rim; gorgeous aroma, combing floral high-notes with ripe, red fruits and savoury oak; supple, deep, fruity palate reflects the inviting aroma; firm tannins combine with the fruit in a wine of complexity and elegance. One of the best.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Medium to deep colour, with youthful rim; sweet, fruity aroma reminiscent of summer berries, with a splash of leaf and spicy oak; lighter bodied than the preceding three vintages; elegant, refined palate with fresh fruit reflecting the aroma and firm fine tannins in the finish. A triumph in such a wet, cold season.

Sue Hodder said very little suitable fruit was produced in the vintage. She said of the scores of vineyards usually contributing to Black Label, only two produced good quality fruit. Allen Jenkins said, “I learned a lot from the 2011 vintage, leading to major changes to manage the extremes of climate change”.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Medium to deep colour, still crimson at the rim; delicate, sweet, floral, fruity aroma – alluring, seductive and classy; vibrant palate reflects the gorgeous aroma; fine tannins embrace the fruit, creating a unity of flavour; great harmony and elegance in a very fine, medium-bodied, elegant and potentially very long-lived cabernet sauvignon. A magnificent wine, in a class of its own.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Medium to deep colour with crimson rim; deep aroma of black fruits and black olive; these intense varietal characters flow onto a deep, sweet and round palate, layered with firm tannins; a big wine after the 2012, but harmonious and with good future potential.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Medium to deep with crimson rim; vibrant aroma of ripe, red fruits; the palate continues the fruity theme promised by the aroma; tight cabernet tannins grip the fruit and give an elegant structure to a very youthful wine.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
The current release – $28.45 to $45
Deep colour with intense crimson rim; opulent aroma combines vibrant, ripe varietal character with deeper underlying savouriness; brilliant fruit saturates a round, juicy palate that pulses with life; ripe, assertive tannins harmonise with fruit in a complete and superior cabernet sauvignon. One of the best.

A look to the future

We also tasted representative samples from the 2016 and 2017 vintages, drawn from oak barrels. They are yet to be blended and bottled.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (barrel sample)
Deep colour with purple rim; strong aroma of ripe, dark fruits – mulberry, black cherry; an adolescent on the palate – rampant, untamed fruit with powerful tannins and obvious oak; great potential.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (barrel sample_
Limpid purple colour: all florals and fruit on nose and palate, strongly varietal in flavour with fine tannins at this stage and oak not asserting its influence yet.

Winemakers, viticulturists and tasters.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 1 September 2017

Wine review – Mount Majura, David Hook, McW Reserve 660

Mount Majura Canberra District Mondeuse 2016 $29
DNA analysis by Jose Vouillamoz in 2008 revealed Savoie red variety, mondeuse noire, to be either a half-sibling or grandparent of Australia’s signature variety, shiraz. Mount Majura’s Frank van der Loo first tasted mondeuse in France’s Savoie area early this century and was “struck by its delicious spicy character”. He planted mondeuse at Majura in 2010 and released the first wine in 2015. The second vintage provides unique medium-bodied drinking, featuring bright, fruity flavours reminiscent of summer berries infused with spice.

David Hook Central Ranges Hilltops Nebbiolo 2015 $38
Hunter-based David Hook sources fruit from the NSW Central Ranges area, including the Hilltops Region, centred on Young. Piedmontese red variety nebbiolo makes light coloured, highly aromatic wines with an at-times aggressive bite of tannin that seems at odds with the light colour. Hook’s version captures the variety’s alluring floral notes and fruity–savoury flavours. However, while the tannins give notable grip to the finish, they are comparatively tame for nebbiolo and work well with savoury food.

McW Reserve 660 Canberra District Syrah 2016 $22–$28
Former Canberran Jim Chatto now heads the McWilliams winemaking team where he presided over production of this juicy, loveable Canberra shiraz. I came across it in Dan Murphys, Cairns, while guiding an old mate through the confusing world of wine. Served lightly chilled in the warm FNQ climate, the wine impressed for its vivid crimson colour and equally vivid fruit flavours. A touch of spice, typical of Canberra shiraz, and fine, soft tannins completed a delicious drink-now dry red of real character.

Mount Majura Canberra District Touriga 2016 $29
Touriga provides an earthy, grippy contrast to Mount Majura’s bright and chirpy mondeuse, also reviewed today. Touriga shares mondeuse’s vibrant freshness and medium body. But earthy, savoury character and fine, grippy tannins give it a distinctly separate character. Winemaker Frank van de Loo suggests this late ripening variety’s success in Canberra is due to recent warm vintages. He writes, “The 2015–2016 season was our warmest to date (as measured by heat degree days), illustrating the ongoing effect of global warming”.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan
First published 1 August 2017 in the Canberra Times

Gin review – wildbrumby

Thredbo Valley Distillery Wildbrumby Gindabyne Gin
700ml $75

The gin craze now sweeping Australia brings us many exciting new variants from boutique distilleries across Australia – including this highly aromatic beauty from the NSW Snowy Mountains region. Thredbo Valley Distillery, maker of schnapps from locally grown fruit, turned to gin making with instant success it seems. Pure, clean and fruity, with juniper high notes, Wildbrumby provides exceptionally smooth, pure drinking with subtly distinctive flavours. The back label reads, “High quality spirit is infused with  a blend of Australian botanicals for over 10 years, then distilled in ‘Florence’, our small batch pot still, with the addition of aromatic herbs and spices, juniper and a threesome of organic citrus grown in our family orchard”.

It’s available at wildbrumby.com.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017

Wine review – Four Winds Vineyard, Collector Wines, Sassafras, Ravensworth

Four Winds Vineyard Canberra District Riesling 2016 $25
Four Winds Vineyard’s Sarah Collingwood, a finalist in the 2016 Women in Wine Awards, was in May selected for Wine Australia’s Future Leaders Program. News of Collingwood’s latest achievement coincided with a glass of Four Winds Riesling 2016 at the Tradies Canberra Wine House. I’d tasted and reviewed the wine last November. But like other Canberra rieslings, six months in bottle lifted it to another level. This is a classy riesling indeed, offering intense but delicate, lemon-like varietal flavours, amplified by fresh, drying acidity.

Collector Canberra District Rose Red City Sangiovese 2013 $32
Another local wine enjoyed at Tradies Canberra Wine House (see wine of the week) was Alex McKay’s sangiovese, grown, he says, “on a range of vineyards across both granite and shaley soil near Murrumbateman”. The wine also contains small amounts of four other Italian varieties, canaiolo nero, mammolo and colorino. McKay’s medium-bodied red separates itself from traditional Australian reds by putting sangiovese’s savoury, tannic character ahead of bright fruit flavour. The delicious fruit flavour remains, seeping its way through the savour and tannin with mouth-watering results.

Sassafras Canberra District Savagnin Ancestral 2016 $25
Sassafras Savagnin Ancestral offers a perky, tart, tasty take on sparkling wine. It’s made in a continuous but pernickety process: fermentation, refrigeration to arrest fermentation, maturation on yeast lees, light filtering into bottle (complete with residual grape sugar and surviving yeast), where fermentation resumes, consuming the sugar and creating the bubbles. The result is a light, fresh, pleasing sparkler with apple-like flavour and tartness – and a fine sediment resulting from the bottle fermentation. Fruit comes from the Quarry Hill Vineyard, Murrumbatemen. Available at sassafraswines.com.au.

Ravensworth Sangiovese 2016 $25
Bryan Martin’s sangiovese provides a tasty contrast to Alex McKay’s Collector reviewed today. McKay’s 2013 emphasises the savoury, tannic face of the variety, while Martin’s 2016, at this stage of its development, shows sangiovese’s gentler, fruitier side. Grape for Ravensworth came from five vineyards spread around Canberra, Hilltops and Gundagai. Gentle processing, including whole-berry ferments, extended skin contact and ageing in older barrels, produced a silk-smooth, medium bodied red with intense sour-cherry-like varietal flavour.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017
First published 27 June 2017 in the Canberra Times and goodfood.com.au

Wine review – Mada Wines, McKellar Ridge, Sholto, Ravensworth

Mada Wines Canberra District Shiraz 2016 $35
Hamish Young’s new shiraz combines fruit from two vineyards: Yarrh, at the northern end of Murrumbateman, near the Yass River, and Wily Trout, in the Nanima Valley, Springrange, near the southern end of Murrumbateman. The wine captures the perfume, ripe-berry and spicy characters of Canberra Shiraz. The rich, supple, soft palate is, at present, all about ripe, concentrated fruit flavour – though there’s savour and tannin there to add interest.

McKellar Ridge Canberra District Shiraz Viognier 2016 $34
Winemaker Brian Johnston writes, “I changed the winemaking strategy in 2015 to accentuate the fruit flavour, holding the wine in newer French oak for a shorter period, and bottling in January rather than June. I used the same strategy in 2016”. The strategy worked sensationally in 2015, an exceptional vintage. Again in the 2016 the technique emphasises Canberra’s red-berry-and-spice flavours on a soft, very fresh palate that finishes with a pleasantly tart bite of spicy oak.

Sholto Canberra District Sangiovese 2015 $20
Like Mada’s Hamish Young, Sholto’s Jacob Carter buys grapes from local growers then makes wine for his own label. Carter says, “I only use local fruit from around the Canberra region and have decided to stick only with alternative varieties and wine styles”. His sangiovese, from Jirra Vineyard, provides light to medium bodied current drinking, with bright fresh fruit, smooth texture and savoury tannins typical of sangiovese.

Ravensworth Canberra District The Tinderry 2016 $36
What do you get when you cross the red variety cabernet franc with white sauvignon blanc? Well, if it’s among the vines in 17th century Bordeaux, you get a torrid romance and an entirely new red variety, one of the greatest of all – cabernet sauvignon. But if its just grapes, and in Bryan Martin’s hands, you get a whacky red–white blend that works: fragrant, pungent, fruity, bity, savoury and strangely delicious. You’ll find it under the “weird stuff” tab at ravensworthwines.com.au. “We call it Flanc”, says Martin.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017
First published 30 May 2017 in the Canberra Times and goodfood.com.au

Birth of a Canberra bluechip – Clonakilla Syrah

Tim Kirk hosts a Clonakilla Syrah tasting, 9 March 2017. On the far left, 2006, the first vintage; on the right, the current release, 2015. The wine was not produced in 2007 or 2011, and in 2014 only a token amount was bottled but not labeled or released. Photo: Chris Shanahan.

Canberra’s one and only blue-chip wine, Clonakilla Shiraz–Viognier, has a rival. And it’s from the same winery. This is its story.

In 2010, Canberra’s Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier joined the blue chips of Australian wine – alongside Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace. Clonakilla’s ranking in the “Exceptional” category of Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine – based on long-term auction demand and prices – confirmed its unique status among Australian cool-grown shiraz styles.

Four years earlier, however, winemaker Tim Kirk had created a rival to his own remarkable flagship. Clonakilla Syrah 2006, a comparatively robust style of Murrumbateman shiraz, immediately attracted quality comparisons with the revered shiraz–viognier blend.

Clonakilla Murrumbateman Syrah 2015, the current release. Photo: David Reist.

Although sourced from a vineyard planted in 1999, the new wine originated in Tim Kirk’s mind decades earlier – with a fascination in wines from the Rhone Valley’s Cote-Rotie and Hermitage regions.

The Cote-Rotie connection, based on Kirk’s 1991 visit to leading winemaker Marcel Guigal, inspired Clonakilla’s first shiraz–viognier blend in 1992.

But Kirk’s mind had also drifted further south down the Rhone to the hill of Hermitage and, in particular, to Paul Jaboulet’s La Chapelle vineyard, located on terraced slopes below the tiny chapel of Saint-Christophe. He still regards Jaboulet’s La Chapelle 1990 as one of the greatest wines ever tasted.

Kirk drew inspiration, he recalls, from Jancis Robinson’s writing on Hermitage’s leading producers. She once described good Hermitage as “Always majestic. Slow to mature, deep in colour, magnificently and hauntingly savoury rather than sweet and flirtatious, the quintessential syrah”.

Robust, savoury shiraz from Hermitage contrasts strongly with the fragrant, fruity shiraz-viognier blends of Cote-Rotie. But the style differences derive largely from the comparative warmth of the two regions.

Even with Hermitage in mind, Kirk remained limited in the wine styles he could produce by the nature of the fruit coming from the vineyard. However, new plantings on a warmer site expanded the possibilities.

Harvesting shiraz from the T and L 1 vineyard, the warmest of Clonakilla’s sites. Photo: David Reist.

In 1999 Tim Kirk and wife Lara planted shiraz on land they’d bought adjoining Clonakilla’s existing Murrumbateman vineyards. Within a few years the highest, warmest point of the new T and L 1 vineyard produced intriguing shiraz, notably more powerful than wine from other parts of the estate.

For a time, Kirk made wine from the block separately for observation, but ultimately blended it into the flagship Shiraz–Viognier. However, from the 2006 vintage, wine from T and L 1 earned its separate identity, and instant acclaim, as Clonakilla Syrah.

Comparatively powerful, tannic fruit from the site – the warmest of Clonakilla’s vineyards – underpins the style of the Syrah. But Kirk also uses fruit handling, fermentation and maturation techniques that add to the differences between the two flagship wines.

Clonakilla Shiraz–viognier, modelled on the wines of Cote-Rotie, comprises shiraz fermented with the white variety, viognier (5–6 per cent of the blend); Clonakilla Syrah is 100 per-cent shiraz (“syrah” is simply the French spelling).

Kirk says the viognier component, “influences the wine in a subtle way, where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. It elevates, expands and amplifies the aroma and palate and gives a viscous character that rounds the palate”.

Fruit for the shiraz–viognier comes from Clonakilla’s original, Euroka Park and T and L vineyards; Syrah’s fruit comes only from the warmest part of T and L 1 block. The different fruit sourcing creates a vital difference between the two wines.

From 1993 the shiraz-viognier ferments include whole bunches (currently 20–30 per-cent of total fruit, depending on vintage). The stems and stalks add noticeably to the aroma, flavour and texture of the wine; Syrah ferments contain no whole bunches.

The non-whole-bunch component of the shiraz–viognier is de-stemmed then pumped to open fermenting vats. The pump breaks the skin of many of the berries but also leaves many intact; the aim with Syrah, on the other hand, is to keep whole berries intact, so the bunches are de-stemmed into bins, then the berries are fork lifted, not pumped, into open fermenting vats.

Clonakilla syrah being de-stemmed. After de-stemmimg the berries are lifted and tipped from bins  into vats where the whole-berry ferment begins spontaneously. Photo: David Reist.

Once in vat, both the Shiraz-Viognier and Syrah follow a similar trajectory for a week or two: the mix of berries, or berries and bunches, as the case may be, cold soak for several days until a spontaneous fermentation begins. In the case of whole berries, fermentation begins inside the berry.

As the ferments heat up, plunging machines break up the cap of skins and grapes three times a day; as the ferment slows down, the vats are plunged daily.

After fermentation, Shiraz-Viognier and Syrah, head down two different paths: both remain on skins for a time after fermentation. But the Shiraz–viognier spends a total of about 18 days on skins (three weeks in 2017); while the more robust Syrah remains on skins for 31 days (with a few one-ton batches of six weeks in 2016 and 2017).

Kirk says the extended maceration of the Syrah, “mollifies the potent tannins, but they’re still powerful”. The gentler tannins of the Shiraz–Viognier don’t require such long skin contact.

The many Shiraz-Viognier components are now pressed off skins into 225-litre French oak barriques, about one third of them new, for a 12-month maturation period; the Syrah components are pressed to 500-litre French oak puncheons, one-third new, for 20–22 months.

The size of the barrels and duration of maturation affects the aroma, flavour and tannin structure of each wine. Oak is not obvious in either, rather the two maturation methods complement the character of each wine: the floral, lusciously fruity, silky Shiraz–Viognier and the deeper, darker, more potent Syrah, with its latent, coiled depth.

Does Tim Kirk love one child more than the other? “That’s like asking whether you prefer your son or your daughter”, he laughs. “I love both. I celebrate them equally. They’re distinct personalities. I thrill in their complexity and I thinks it’s almost miraculous we can make these on this little landscape we farm”.

The almost miraculous, definitely remarkable Clonakilla Syrah 2015 costs $96 at cellar door – same price as the equally remarkable Clonakilla Shiraz-Viognier 2015.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2017
First published 9 May 2017 in the Canberra Times, CT app and goodfood.com.au