Category Archives: Wine review

Vasse Felix Cabernet Merlot 2010 – wine of the week $20.89–$26 Northern Margaret River, Western Australia At a recent cabernet tasting Virginia Willcock’s shimmering blend attracted drinkers to it like gold diggers to a new lode. Fragrance, purity, deliciousness and finesse drew many of us back for second and third helpings. Willcock says cabernet sauvignon provides the structural tannin and blackcurrant fruit flavour and merlot adds a soft, luscious mouth feel. A splash of malbec contributes another layer of fruit, fragrance and tannin. It’s a seductive example of Margaret River’s specialty, made to enjoy young – quite a contrast to Vasse Felix’s more powerful Heytesbury reviewed here today.

Vasse Felix Heytesbury 2009$85.49–$90 Northern Margaret River, Western Australia Vasse Felix’s flagship cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, malbec blend presents the powerful but elegant, potentially very long lived side of the Bordeaux style. We use descriptors like fragrant, pretty and delicate for the drink-now blend reviewed alongside. But for Heytesbury we move to deep, brooding, ripe, leafy, intense, firm, grippy and multi-layered. It’s a potent, well-proportioned blend of cabernet sauvignon (69 per cent), petit verdot (16 per cent) and malbec (15 per cent) needing many years in the cellar. Winemaker Virginia Willcock says the cabernet’s from their oldest vines, dating from the late 1960s.

De Bortoli Windy Peak Chardonnay 2011 $11.25–$14 Yarra Valley, Victoria The trickle-down effect almost invariably means that bigger companies making the very finest wines also make the best cheaper wines. In this instance, for a modest price, we enjoy a scrumptious, fine-boned, silky-textured Yarra chardonnay that’s a spin-off from decades of vineyard and winery work on De Bortoli’s top end products. Leanne de Bortoli and winemaker husband, Steve Webber, write, “where something is grown dictates the aroma and flavour”, hence the decision, arrived at over many years, to source Windy Peak chardonnay exclusively from the Yarra Valley.

PHI Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 $38–$45 Shelmerdine Lusatia Park Vineyard, Woori Yallock, Yarra Valley, Victoria The Phi brand combines the winemaking and viticultural skills of the De Bortoli and Shelmerdine families respectively. Hand-picked, hand-sorted bunches from the Shelmerdine’s Lusatia Park vineyard were whole-bunch pressed and the juice, after overnight settling, went to oak barrels for spontaneous fermentation (followed by malo-lactic fermentation). It’s all a very natural affair, resulting in a really beautiful drink – deeply, smoothly textured; intensely flavoured (grape fruit and melon-rind varietal, integrated with the leesy background of barrel maturation); with brisk acidity holding the flavour and structural elements together.

Oxford Landing Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010 $7–$9.50 Riverland Region, Murray River, South Australia Yalumba’s Wyndham Hill-Smith established Oxford Landing vineyard on the Murray River, South Australia, in 1958. In the 1980s Hill-Smith’s son, Robert, launched the Oxford Landing Estate range as a fighting brand to take on the big companies. The meticulously managed estate still contributes grapes to a brand that sits with the best in its price range. But the company also sources grapes from other growers in the region – hence the subtle rebranding from ‘estate’ to ‘estates’. This is all you could ask for at the price – clean, fresh, deliciously fruity and clearly made from cabernet, fleshed out with a touch of shiraz.

Dopff au Moulin Riesling 2010 $13.29–$14 Alsace, France Alsace riesling provides a tasty contrast to Australian style. Sourced from Dopf’s vineyards in the vicinity of the lovely old town of Riquewihr. It’s a highly aromatic wine with a distinct musk note, reminiscent of gewürztraminer, if not as rampant. The deeply fruity, fresh palate reflects the aromatics and has a viscosity unique to Alsace wines. It finishes dry, though not bone dry. Woolworths imports the Dopff au Moulin range for sale through its Woolworths Liquor, BWS and Dan Murphy outlets.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 11 April 2012 in The Canberra Times

Ravensworth Murrumbateman Sangiovese 2010 $21 In the hot, then wet, then cool 2010 season, grape ripening “rushed ahead, then stopped”, says winemaker Bryan Martin. As a result, shiraz struggled to ripen. But Martin’s very small crop of sangiovese (10 barrels) ripened easily. “It was the best fruit in the winery in 2010”, he says. But it came in it a lower than normal pH – meaning a more purple colour and softer tannins than usual. Behind the deep but limpid purple colour lurks a delicious, fairly fleshy red – quite a contrast to the generally bonier wines of the vintage – with sangiovese’s distinctive, savoury and still reasonably firm tannins.

Juniper Crossing Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 $17–$21 Juniper Estate, located at Wilyabrup in the historical heart of Margaret River, makes two ranges of wines – the Estate range, sourced only from the estate, and showcasing the best of the vineyard; and the Crossing range, purpose-built for early drinking. The Crossing wines all provide excellent drinking, though the semillon sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon merlot hold the strongest appeal to my palate. Winemaker Mark Messenger sourced fruit for the 2009 cabernet merlot from estate vineyards and one long-term grower. It’s a delicious, ripe and full-flavoured expression of this regional specialty, with vibrant fruit flavours to the fore.

Oxford Landing Estate Chardonnay 2011 $6.65–$9.50 Yalumba’s Wyndham Hill-Smith established Oxford Landing vineyard on the Murray River, South Australia, in 1958. In the 1980s Hill-Smith’s son, Robert, launched the Oxford Landing Estate range as a fighting brand to take on the big companies. The meticulously managed estate still contributes chardonnay grapes to a brand that sits with the best in its price range. But the company also sources grapes from other grower sin the region – hence the subtle rebranding from ‘estate’ to ‘estates’. The full-bodied winner delivers pure, ripe, peachy varietal flavour with crisp acidity and a firm, tangy finish.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 8 April 2012 in The Canberra Times

Ravensworth Marsanne 2010 $21 Ravensworth Vineyard, Murrumbateman, Canberra District, New South Wales Riesling’s our local white specialty. But vignerons seeking an alternative, might look beyond the usual suspects, like chardonnay or sauvignon blanc, to the Rhone Valley varieties, marsanne, roussanne and viognier – whether blended or solo. Bryan Martin grows all three and enjoys quite a following for marsanne in particular. In 2010 a light crop ripened to a higher sugar level than usual, says Martin, producing a full-bodied expression of the style. Wild-yeast fermented in older oak barrels, it delivers the rich, verging on viscous, texture of the variety, with underlying delicious, honey-like and stone-fruit flavours – and a savoury, bone-dry finish.

Crittenden Estate Pinocchio Sangiovese 2010 $20–25 Heathcote, Victoria Garry Crittenden made his first wine from an Italian grape variety (dolcetto) in 1992 – and went on to become one of Australia’s leading producers of Italian varietals. He now works with his son Rollo, who writes that the Pinocchio story – “of a wayward son and his ever tolerant creator Geppetto” – symbolises their working relationship. The Crittenden’s wild-yeast fermented sangiovese captures the bitter-sweet character of sangiovese and its dominating, savoury, mouth-drying tannins.

Innocent Bystander Mule Sangiovese 2010 $30 Paxton’s Gateway vineyard, McLaren Vale, South Australia Well-known McLaren Vale grape grower, David Paxton, established the Gateway vineyard (now certified biodynamic) early last decade. He sells fruit to Yarra-based Innocent Bystander for their new single-vineyard range comprising viognier, shiraz and this very good sangiovese blend. Presumably it’s the seven per cent cabernet franc in the blend giving the initial un-sangiovese-like perfume. But on the palate, sangiovese takes over, weaving its dry, savoury tannins through the bright fruit flavours.

Hungerford Hill Fishcage Chardonnay 2010 $18 Tumbarumba, New South Wales Grow the right grapes in the right regions and you get beautiful results. In this instance, chardonnay from high, cool Tumbarumba reveals its tasty white peach and grapefruit varietal flavours and zingy, fresh acidity. The winemaker fermented a small portion of the blend in oak barrels. Together with maturation on yeast least lees, this added a rich texture and subtle “leesy” notes that season the pristine fruit character.

De Bortoli La Boheme Act Two Dry Pinot Noir Rose 2011 $20 Yarra Valley, Victoria Leanne De Bortoli and winemaking husband Steve Webber share a love of southern France’s pale, soft, dry roses. The couple are also leaders of the rose revolution, a social-media-led annual campaign to promote this style of rose. De Bortoli offers two Yarra pinot-based versions of the style – a slightly more tart and tangy estate-grown version ($22) and La Boheme, named for Puccini’s opera. It’s pale coloured and offers light, strawberry-like pinot flavour on a richly textured and fresh but very soft palate.

Ravensworth Shiraz Viognier 2010 $30 Ravensworth Vineyard, Murrumbateman, Canberra District, New South Wales After the succulent and fleshy 2009 vintage, Ravensworth 2010 presents a more sinewy side of cool-climate shiraz. Winemaker Bryan Martin says the shiraz grapes raced ahead early, then stopped, then struggled to ripeness, while retaining good acidity. This resulted in a fairly bony, just-ripe red, emphasising the peppery and spicy varietal flavours of the cool season. A high proportion of whole-bunches in the ferment injected a subtle stalky note that boosted those cool-climate flavours and added silkiness to the sinewy structure. It’s an edgy, irresistible wine and grows more interesting with every glass.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 4 April 2012 in The Canberra Times

Massale by Kooyong Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2010 $25.95–$30 Haven and Ballewindi Vineyards, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria I tried and like this wine on its release in mid 2011. Months later it appealed to me more than two more expensive companions in a three-cornered taste off – Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Yarra Valley 2010 and Vosne-Romanee (Mugneret-Gibourg) 2009. The colour’s vibrant and crimson rimmed. The aroma suggests ripe, black cherry with savoury and earthy notes. The vibrant, juicy palate reflects a spectrum of pinot flavours, including savouriness. Fine fruit and oak tannins permeate the fruit, providing structure under the signature slippery pinot texture. Fruit was sourced from the Kooyong’s Haven and Ballewindi vineyards.

Kingston Estate Barossa and Clare Valleys Shiraz 2010 $10.45–$15 Bill Moularadellis’s Kingston Estate, though based on the Murray River, sources fruit from other top wine-growing regions – in this instance shiraz from the Clare and Barossa Valleys. These warm regions give the wine its pure, ripe, cherry-like varietal aroma and fleshy, juicy fruit flavours. Ten years ago we would’ve expected a blend at this price to be beefed up with vanilla-like oak flavours and huge tannins. But in the modern style, this one let’s the fruit do the talking, with sufficient tannin to give structure and a dry, satisfying finish. There’s lots of flavour for your money here.

Crittenden Estate Los Hermanos Saludo al Txakoli 2011 $25 This is brother and sister Rollo and Zoe Crittenden’s take on an idiosyncratic white from Spain’s Basque region. They write, “Traditionally, three varieties have been used for Txakoli – hondarrabi zubi, hondarrabi beltza and petit manseng, chosen for their natural acid retention and vibrant flavour at low alcohol. With the first two varieties unavailable in Australia, we have used petit manseng, grown in the King Valley”. It’s built to enjoy with savoury food – pale coloured and low in alcohol with tart, vibrant acidity and the further tingle and teasing bite of light, spritzy carbon dioxide.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 1 April 2012 in The Canberra Times

Tulloch Pokolbin Dry Red 2010 $22–$25 The label dates from1952 and the company goes back 1895. Its modern history includes sale of J.Y. Tulloch and Sons to Reed Consolidated Publishing in 1969, followed by 32 years in corporate hands before Jay Tulloch and business associates bought the farm back in 2001. Since then we’ve tasted nothing but impeccable regional wines, like this enduring specialty – a medium bodied, fragrant, silky smooth red with bright, ripe fruit and what can only be described as “Hunteriness”. It’s a beautiful wine, can be cellared successfully and never fails to impress – and surprise – lovers of cool climate shiraz. That’s the warm Hunter’s great paradox.

Best’s Great Western Bin O Shiraz 2010 $75 Whether you’re after an outstanding drink or want a special memento to enjoy years, even decades, down the track, Best’s Bin O’s worth looking it. Its pedigree stretches back more than 100 years, although the exact date of the original label isn’t known. Sourced from four low-yielding sections of the Thomson family’s vineyards  – planted in the 19th and mid 20th centuries – Bin O presents a unique power and elegance. Despite the intense peppery, savoury varietal flavours, the wine’s silky, supple and a joy to drink now. But the harmonious layering of sweet fruit and fine tannin should see it flourish in the decades to come.

Jacob’s Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $13.30–$18 The Jacob’s Creek reserve range, once multi-regional blends, recently moved to single-region sourcing ­and labelling. Always outstanding at their price points, and always containing material from our better regions, their move to regional labelling gives better marketing support to the quality of the wine in the bottle. In this instance, for a modest price, we enjoy an outstanding expression of Coonawarra cabernet. It’s pure varietal in its berry, black olive and leaf aroma and flavour, its rich, firm palate and elegant structure. We enjoyed a few bottles of this around Christmas and noting it’s still around town, sometimes on special, give it strong endorsement.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 25 March 2012 in The Canberra Times

Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $29.45–$35 Xanadu Vineyard, Boodjidup Valley, Margaret River, Western Australia The Lagan family planted Xanadu in 1977 and under Rathbone family ownership since 2005 makes beautiful cabernet sauvignons. Winemaker Glenn Goodall attributes the 2009’s near-perfect varietal flavour, ripe tannins and elegant structure to “amazing Indian summer conditions”. A blend of 88 per cent cabernet sauvignon, eight per cent petit verdot, two per cent each of merlot and cabernet franc ¬– the 2009 delivers pure varietal aromas (black olive and blackcurrant) subtle supported by cedary oak. The same flavours come through on a delicious, juicy fine-boned palate, meshed with fine, soft tannins.

Richmond Grove Riesling 2011 $18.05–$21 Watervale, Clare Valley, South Australia Richmond Grove is a descendent of the great Leo Buring rieslings of the 60s and 70s. In the early 90a, Orlando relocated the brand from the Hunter to Buring’s old Chateau Leonay winery in the Barossa Valley. Orlando’s recently-recruited Phil Laffer, a Lindemans-Buring veteran, engaged former Leo Buring riesling master, John Vickery. The collaboration produced Richmond Grove Watervale riesling, sourced for the first decade from the Barry family’s Florita vineyard, formerly owned by Leo Buring. The style is lime-like, dry and delicate, with a particularly fine acid backbone in the cool 2011 vintage. It has tremendous cellaring potential. Indeed we’re still savouring the 1998, 1999 and 2002 vintages at Chateau Shanahan.

d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2008 $61.75–$68 McLaren Vale, South Australia No other beverage enjoys the mystique of wine – in this d’Arenberg red based on a disease – eutypa lata – that kills off one side, or arm, of a vine. Hence the name, dead arm. And as soon as we see, smell and drink Dead Arm, we love what winemaker Chester Osborne calls, “these truncated, gap-toothed old vines”, for the drinking satisfaction they deliver. The flavour intensity is truly remarkable. But it’s not overwhelming. It’s a sturdy, friendly bear hug of a shiraz, with a deep, tannic savoury undercurrent.

House of Arras Brut Elite Method Traditionelle NV $42.75–$48 Upper Derwent and Huon Valley, Tasmania Arras is part of Accolade Wines (formerly Constellation Wines Australia, and before that BRL Hardy). Hardy’s created the brand for the superb Tasmanian sparkling wines created by Ed Carr – bubblies that I rate, alongside those of fellow Tasmanian Stefano Lubiana, as Australia’s best. Brut Elite NV comes 98 per cent from the 2004 vintage – a blend of 58 per cent pinot noir and 42 per cent chardonnay, aged six years on yeast lees. A pale, golden colour it delivers the power and structure of pinot noir, the zest and buoyancy of chardonnay and the deep but subtle flavour and texture of prolonged ageing on lees – a remarkable, delicate, complex sparkler to savour.

Stefano Lubiana Brut Reserve NV $34–$38 Lubiana Vineyard, Granton, Derwent Valley, Tasmania A few weeks I reviewed Steve Lubiana’s spectacular 2004 vintage. His non-vintage product – from the 2008 vintage, with small components of reserve wines, vintages 2003 to 2007 – shows similar delicate fruit flavours, but with less bottle-aged character. The 60:40 chardonnay-pinot noir blend shows a light and spritely acidic freshness on the palate, underpinned by superb, delicate fruit flavours – a product of the cool climate. But there’s structure and texture here, too, making it a better buy, I believe, than many real non-vintage Champagnes.

Heartland Wines Dolcetto Lagrein 2010 $19–$22 Langhorne Creek, South Australia Good fruit and very clever winemaking here from Ben Glaetzer, produces unique flavours and enjoyable drinking. It’s a blend of the northern Italian varieties dolcetto and lagrein – the former noted for its aromatics and brilliant colour, the latter for its sometimes-intimidating tannins. The blend is highly perfumed and mulberry-like on the nose with a peppery note; the vibrant fruit and pepperiness continue on the generous palate before the savoury, persistent tannins roll back in. Heartland is the creation of Ben Glaetzer, Grant Tilbrook, Scott Collet, Geoff Hardy, Vicki Arnold, Gino Melino and John Pargeter.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 21 March 2012 in The Canberra Times

Stonier Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2010 $16.50–$25 Stonier chardonnay walks the tasty line between the fat chardonnays of old and the sometimes ultra-austere versions now in vogue in some quarters. It’s based on the outstanding fruit flavour produced the cool, maritime environment of Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula – flanked on either side by Port Phillip and Westernport Bays, and Bass Straight to the south. It combines generosity of varietal flavour, vibrant fresh acidity and a smooth texture derived from partial barrel fermentation and maturation (and, judging by the flavour, a little malolactic fermentation – a secondary, acid-reducing process that inserts a subtle butterscotch note).

D’Arenberg McLaren Vale The Stick and Stones Tempranillo Shiraz Tinta Cao and Souzao 2008 $30 This is a triumph for the monumentally hot 2008 vintage. We might expect a port-like red, but instead winemaker Chester Osborne presents an impressively robust drop that slips down easily – and maintained our interest all the way to the bottom of the bottle. It’s deep and tannic and firm and savoury, chewy even, but the core of sweet, delicious fruit holds all that grunt comfortably. Tempranillo leads the blend and shiraz probably provides the fruit sweetness. God knows what the Portuguese tinta cao and souzo contribute. But they’re no strangers to hot weather and the combination works. It’s unique and satisfying.

De Bortoli Bella Riva King Valley Pinot Grigio Vermentino 2010 $15–$17I In the nineties vine planting took off in Victoria’s King Valley as the area’s Italian-descended families turned their backs on tobacco growing – changing vices, so to speak. And two Italian winemaking families from Griffith (neither associated with tobacco), New South Wales, joined the expansion – Miranda and De Bortoli. De Bortoli’s includes among its vines pinot grigio, a grey/white mutant of pinot noir, and the Italian white variety, vermentino. De Bortoli’s low alcohol (12.5 per cent) blend of the two provides richly textured, pleasantly tart, savoury drinking, very much in the Italian style.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 18 March 2012 in The Canberra Times

Best’s Thomson Family Shiraz 2010 – wine of the week $180 Concongella Vineyard, Great Western, Grampians, Victoria In 1867 Henry Best planted the Concongella vineyard, Great Western. The Thomson family bought the vineyard in 1920 – and today those same shiraz vines, tended by Viv Thomson and family, supply the grapes for this extraordinary red. Much has been written of vine age and wine quality. In this instance we drink the glory of venerable old vines – completely at home in their environment – delivering an elegant wine of enormous, sweet-fruited flavour concentration. Thomson makes only about 300 dozen and only in exceptional years. It’s a great and unique shiraz, capable of long-term cellaring.

Stonier Pinot Noir 2010 $21.80–$28 Mornington Peninsula, Victoria After a long, difficult struggle from 1978, Brian Stonier eventually made outstanding pinot noir from the early 1990s. Petaluma later took over the business but was itself acquired by brewer, Lion Nathan – now part of Japan’s Kirin Brewery. However, the style and quality of the wines powered through the ownership changes. The latest pinot, sourced from 15 vineyards – all the fruit hand harvested ¬– displays the delicate, refined Stonier style: pale to medium colour; aroma and flavour show red-berry fruit with a savoury pinot seam, backed by fine, silky tannins.

Stefano Lubiana Vintage Brut 2004 $53–$58 Lubiana Vineyard, Granton, Derwent Valley, Tasmania Lubiana, along with Arras (made by Ed Carr), demonstrate why cool Tasmania became Australia’s bubbly hot spot. It starts with the intense but delicate flavours of the purpose-grown fruit. After that Steve Lubiana’s winemaking and blending skills come into play – capturing the fruit flavour then, through clever blending (55 per cent chardonnay, 45 per cent pinot noir) and almost six years’ maturation in bottle on yeast lees. Like France’s great Champagnes, it’s rich and textured beyond the fruit – because of the winemaking and maturation. But delicate fruit remains at the centre. Indeed, without these the winemaking inputs would add up to nothing.

Pizzini Prosecco 2011 $19 King Valley, Victoria What an enormous contrast between Pizzini Prosecco and Lubiana 2004, the two sparkling wines reviewed today – the latter a wine of gravitas, to savour and wonder at; the former for happy quaffing. Winemaking simply captures the prosecco grape’s freshness and light, spicy, green-apple tartness. The lightness and tartness make it enjoyable on its own or with pretty well any food – a pleasant backdrop that refreshes the mouth, allowing the food to star.

Battle of Bosworth Shiraz 2010 $19.50–$25 Edgehill Vineyard, McLaren Vale, South Australia The Bosworth family planted grapes in McLaren Vale in the 1840s. Today Joch Bosworth, with partner Louise Hemsley-Smith, operates the organically certified Edgehill Vineyard, established by Peter and Anthea Bosworth in the 1970s. The vineyard supplies the grapes for their Battle of Bosworth label. Their 2010 shows a savoury, medium bodied side of the regional shiraz style. The colour’s deep, but not opaque; and the aroma presents fruit, spice and savouriness – reflected in the flavours of a rich, savoury, well-structured palate.

Grant Burge Daly Road Shiraz Mourvedre 201o $15.90–$20 Burge Daly Road vineyard, Lyndoch, Barossa Valley, South Australia If you like full, juicy Barossa wines, you’ll fall in love with Grant Burge’s vibrant, purple-rimmed shiraz mourvedre blend. This is big and ripe but gentle Barossa – capturing the tender, slurpy fruitiness of shiraz, tempered by the savour, spice and firm tannins of mourvedre. The blend is 60 per cent shiraz; 40 per cent mourvedre, all from Burge’s Daly Road vineyard, located near Lyndoch, at the southern end of the Barossa Valley.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 14 March 2012 in The Canberra Times

Mount Trio Great Southern Riesling 2010 $19 Gavin and Gill Graham own vineyards at Porongurup, a small, elevated sub-region of Western Australia’s large Great Southern area. The area excels with riesling and shiraz, but you’ll find all the usual Australian varieties as you drive around. Mount Trio offers a pretty good example of the local riesling style – at two years, the acidity’s softening off but still gives a brisk tingle and backbone to the lemony varietal flavour. At a recent office tasting it attracted more “likes” than a Wrattonbully semillon sauvignon blanc and a Hunter Valley unwooded chardonnay.

Smith and Hooper Wrattonbully Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2011 $16–$22 If we have to drink sauvignon blanc, let’s bolster it with semillon, in the dry Bordeaux style. In this example from Robert Hill-Smith’s Yalumba group, the winemakers fermented one fifth of the blend in old oak, leaving this component on the spent yeast cells (lees), and stirring the lees every two weeks. The process builds a rich texture and subtle flavours that, together with the semillon, contribute so much to the drinking pleasure. But sauvignon blanc still exerts its pungent, herbal flavour and zesty acidity.

Cumulus Wines Climbing Orange Pinot Gris 2011 $18–$22 In the difficult, wet and cool 2011 vintage some white varieties, including pinot gris, seem to have fared particularly well – for example, in last year’s local wine show, Mount Majura Vineyard won a gold medal for its 2011; and at the recent Tasmanian show, the extraordinary Bay of Fires 2011 won the special chairman’s trophy. And over in even cooler Orange, Cumulus wines harvested this scrumptious, bronze-tinted drop. Winemaker Debbie Lauritz really captures the character of this often-lacklustre variety – fresh and intense, with pear-like flavour and rich, slightly viscous texture.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 11 March 2012 in The Canberra Times