Propagandists in the French wine industry portray Australia as one big, hot, homogenous country pumping out vast quantities of “industrial” wine. While our export success with bright, fresh, affordable varietals – largely at the expense of French producers – might be partly to blame for this perception, it’s as far from the truth as a … Continue reading Extraordinary diversity in Oz wines
In an international context the latest Penfolds red releases, led by Grange, look very attractive. Grange 2005’s $550 price tag, or St Henri 2006’s $90, seem modest in comparison to Bordeaux heavyweight Chateau Latour 2005, a cabernet blend, at $US1,250 a bottle in New York; or next to it on the shelf Domaine de la … Continue reading Penfolds reds in a class of their own
Collector Canberra District Reserve Shiraz 2008 $46 Alex McKay’s Collector Reserve 2008 won four trophies at the recent Sydney Royal Wine Show, topping Aussie greats like Vasse Felix Cabernet and Best’s Bin O Shiraz. Alex sourced the shiraz from the Kyeema Murrumbatemen Vineyard – and added a few buckets of the white variety, viognier, from … Continue reading Wine review — Collector, Chandon, Freeman and Morambro Creek
Australian winemaking 2009 – it’s a tale of two industries: mature, vibrant, small and medium producers with their strong regional identities; and the headline-grabbing wreckage of the ‘brand Australia’ juggernaut. A recent Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) report, Wine industry must confront the reality of oversupply, detailed the horror behind the chilling headlines. The report … Continue reading Brilliant regional wines emerging from Oz wine wreck
Two weeks ago a dozen independent Cowra winemakers visited Canberra. Their story is a microcosm of the shrinking act now underway in Australia as big makers pull the pin on grape contracts, export and local prices decline, and domestic tastes shift dramatically away from chardonnay to sauvignon blanc. Cowra, the group told me, had already … Continue reading Cowra part 1 of 2 — honey, they shrunk the wine industry
Jacob’s Creek Reeves Point Chardonnay 2005 $26–$32 Jacob’s Creek St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $32–$40 Reeves Point is a terrific example of modern Australian chardonnay – bright, fresh, beautifully varietal (with Padthaway’s unique melon-like flavours), full bodied (but not heavy), finely textured and with layers of complexity derived from oak fermentation and maturation. Four … Continue reading Wine review — Jacob’s Creek, Coldstream Hills, Bream Creek, Capercaillie and Wandin Valley
Riposte ‘The Stiletto’ Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris $22–$26 Barwang Tumbarumba Pinot Gris 2008 $17–$20 Pinot gris, a clear or yellow or golden or grey or pink, long-tamed mutant of pinot noir, comes in so many styles – bone dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet or sweet – it’s almost impossible to define. But the most intensely flavoured, possessing … Continue reading Wine review — Riposte, Barwang and Angoves
We recently lined up a dozen top-shelf Aussie reds in a Chateau Shanahan masked tasting. There were just two of us at the bench – forming our judgments without discussion, then, at the end of each bracket comparing our impressions, and later unmasking the bottles. In the few days following the sip-and-spit tasting, we consumed … Continue reading Sipping from the top shelf — Aussie wines that came our way
Heggies Vineyard Eden Valley Chardonnay 2006 $24.95 Pooles Rock Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2005 $29.99 Unlike riesling, which is usually a pure expression of the variety, most top-end chardonnays come gilded with winemaker artefacts: principally the aromas, flavours and textures derived from fermentation and maturation in oak barrels. In the best wines these add-ons meld beautifully … Continue reading Wine review — Heggies, Pooles Rock, Stefano Lubiano & Eileen Hardy
Viognier’s a niche variety and likely to stay that way. Why? Well, for one it has too much flavour and individuality. How can a wine have too much flavour? Well, look, for example, at gewürztraminer. Its heady, lychee-like aroma and viscous texture might be unforgettable, and a joy to drink on occasion. But that’s the … Continue reading Niche white that viognier