Chris Shanahan: Wine review – Hardys and Soumah

Hardys Chronicles “The Gamble” Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2014 $15.99
The press release sketches a tenuous connection between Hardys “The Chronicles” range and the company’s nineteenth-century founder Thomas Hardy. In fact, this is a thoroughly modern, realistically priced wine, made by people who also make one of Australia’s finest chardonnays, Eileen Hardy. Grapes are sourced from South Australia’s vast Limestone Coast (all of the state south of the Murray and immediately west of the Victorian border). The result is a bright and fresh wine of rich but fine texture, built on the region’s melon-like varietal flavours. Presumably Padthaway fruit contributes much to the flavour. This area was also source of fruit for the early Eileen Hardy chardonnays.

Hardys Chronicles “Seventh Green” Langhorne Creek–Coonawarra
Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 2014 $15.99
Hardys new Seventh Green neatly combines the characteristics of cabernet sauvignon from Langhorne Creek (near Lake Alexandrina) and Coonawarra, a couple of hours’ drive to the south on the Limestone Coast. Both regions produce cabernet of outstanding varietal definition: Langhorne Creek in a slightly fuller, fleshier style; Coonawarra in a more concentrated, firm and elegant style. The combination produces a modestly priced cabernet of striking varietal definition, both in its blackcurrant and slightly leafy character and fine, firm backbone of tannin. With wider distribution the price may be subject to discounting.

Soumah Single Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 $29–$31
Soumah, from Gruyere, Yarra Valley, makes its pinot noir from three different clones of the variety. Soumah’s Brett Butcher writes, “the traditional MV6 clone gives minerality and a broad fruit profile while the Pommard adds good structure and elegance. The 777 then brings a dollop of well-rounded, juicy raspberry and cherry flavours with a bright dose of fine acid”. What the drinker beholds is an elegant pinot, built on vibrant red-berry varietal flavours, fresh acidity, smooth texture and fine tannins, derived both from the fruit and oak casks.