Chris Shanahan: Wine review – Logan, Shaw Vineyard Estate, Ad Hoc

Logan Weemala Orange Riesling 2015 $16–$20
Mudgee-based Logan wines sources grapes from a range of altitudes across a swathe of the NSW central ranges, including Orange. Winemaker Peter Logan writes, “Logan’s vineyards sit particularly high above Orange. At altitudes ranging from 850 to 1,050 metres above sea level these are some of the highest vineyards in Australia”. The high altitude means comparatively low temperatures during the ripening period. In the great 2015 vintage, these conditions produced a highly aromatic, intensely flavoured riesling of great delicacy. The wine’s high natural acidity gives it a racy, fresh, dry finish.

Shaw Vineyard Estate Canberra Riesling 2015 $22.50–$25
Graeme Shaw writes, “I craft my wines with my customers in mind and I’ve rarely seen a wine judge in my cellar door buying wine. However, I can’t help but be a smidgen proud that this wine won three trophies at the 2015 Australian Cool Climate Wine Show, including best wine in show”. This is a fuller bodied riesling than the delicate Logan wine reviewed above. It offers strong, lemon-like varietal flavour on an assertive, dry palate. Refreshing acidity combines with warm alcohol and a light astringency to the finish.

Ad Hoc Middle of Everywhere Frankland River Shiraz 2014 $19–$21
The quirky name reflects winemaker Larry Cherubino’s belief in shiraz from Western Australia’s Frankland River region. He writes, “Some people might think Frankland River’s a little isolated – but if you want to make great shiraz in WA, it’s right where you want to be”. The region feels the continent’s hot breath which, on its own, might be too much heat for shiraz. But the southern ocean counters with lovely cold air – and the result is savoury, spicy, medium-bodied cool-climate shiraz. Ad Hoc is a drink-now version of the style. Cherubino captures vibrant fresh berry flavours, laced with pepper and spice, on a smooth, savoury palate.