Chris Shanahan: Beer review — James Squire & Tooheys

James Squire Hop Thief Ale 345 ml $18 6 pack
This second release of Hop Thief — named for convict James Squire, pioneering hop grower and brewer — makes a pungent, bitter, delicious statement about hops (from the USA) – fleetingly muted by a smooth maltiness – before the resiny, bitter hops flood back to provide as bracing a finish as you’re likely to find in any beer.

Tooheys Old Black Ale 375ml $15.49 6-pack
In a hot land populated by cold, golden lager, Tooheys Old is a rare, swarthy survivor of the pre-refrigeration era when ale ruled the beer world. Available on tap and in bottle it offers fruity ale notes and subtle, refreshing bitterness with a core of distinctive roasted coffee flavours. Pity it’s always served Arctic-cold.