Chris Shanahan: Wine review — Holm Oak, Wyndham Estate & Coriole

Holm Oak Vineyards Tasmania Riesling 2006 $20
Holm Oak is a seven-hectare vineyard at Rowella on the Tamar River, Northern Tasmania. Ian and Robyn Wilson own the vineyard but leased but lease it to their winemaker daughter, Rebecca and partner Stuart Catlin. They arrived in mid-2006 in time to launch this very fine aperitif-style riesling. As you’d expect from such a cool site, there’s a backbone of racy acidity giving it life and freshness and driving the attractive lime-like varietal flavour across the palate. Like all good riesling it should provide interesting drinking over time as it moves from bright and zesty youth to the honeyed, toasty mellowness of age. Cellar door phone is 03 6394 7577.

Wyndham Estate Bin 777 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $11-$14
Wyndham Estate, along with Jacob’s Creek, has long been part of the French-owned Pernod Pacific Group. The winemaking team, though, is Australian and includes luminaries like Phil Laffer, John Vickery, Bernard Hickin and Sam Kurtz. They are masters with this sort of commercial blend. And they love to surprise critics who actually taste them with what can be done in a judicious blend that includes material from top-ranked regions and bulk regions – the combination delivering the right flavour and the right price. They’ve done it with this gold-medal and trophy-winner from the 2006 National Wine Show. Watch for the specials and stock up.

Coriole McLaren Vale Redstone Shiraz 2004 $18-$20
This entry-level shiraz from Mark Lloyd’s Coriole Winery starts with bright, fresh, generous fruit flavour. A few sips in, though, and it still holds interest, revealing distinctive McLaren Vale savouriness and soft, drying tannins. Mark sources fruit for Redstone (named after the red-coloured ironstone common in McLaren Vale) partly from the Coriole Vineyard and partly from other growers in the Vale. It’s a comparatively low-acid, soft style made specifically for early drinking. And the combination of fruitiness, savouriness and softness makes it versatile with food. No need for cellar, drink up. See www.coriole.com.au