Chris Shanahan: Wine review — Tulloch & Kalleske

Tulloch Hunter Valley Pokolbin Dry Red Shiraz 2005 $20-$25
Petite Verdot 2006 $$17.60-$22, Viognier 2007 $16-$20, Marsanne $16.20
With the Tulloch family back in control after thirty-odd years in the corporate wilderness, the old firm is a must-visit if you’re in the Hunter. The semillons and shirazes are classic lower Hunter styles made with the self-assurance of people who know what the area does best. I’ll review the semillons next week. Meanwhile buy some of the gentle, supple Shiraz 2005 available at cellar door for $20 if you join the wine club. It’s in the old ‘Hunter Burgundy’ medium bodied mould – a wine that just grows in interest with every sip. The Viognier and Marsanne are beautifully made, crisp modern additions to the range and sourced from Denman in the Upper Hunter. See www.tullochs.com.au

Kalleske Barossa Valley Pirathon Shiraz 2005 $22-$24
and Johann Georg Shiraz 2005 $100
Johann Georg migrated from Prussia to South Australia in 1838 and established vines at Greenock, in the northwestern Barossa in 1853. The first five Kalleske generations grew and sold grapes. Then in 2004, after 151 years in the business, sixth-generation Troy and Tony released the family’s first wines. With the exception of the ‘Pirathon’ shiraz, the wines are estate grown and made. Pirathon comes from family growers in Greenock and neighbouring Moppa, Belvedere, Stonewell, Seppeltsfield, Koonunga and Ebenezer. It’s a traditionally robust, chocolaty and soft Barossa shiraz – built to last and a bargain. Johan Georg sourced from the Kaleske’s oldest vines (planted in 1875) is a more concentrated and powerful but beautifully balanced expression of the regional style.

Kalleske Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz 2006 $18-$20
and Old Vine Grenache 2005 $45
Like the Johann Georg Shiraz above, fruit from these two wines came from the Kalleske family’s organically certified Greenock vineyard. All of the wines are made in open fermenters and pressed gently basket pressed before maturation in barrels. The grenache shiraz blend combines the lovely, spicy fragrance and vibrance of grenache with the more earthy, chocolaty character of shiraz. The result is full but vibrant wine that’s ready to enjoy now. The straight grenache wine is a glorious, exotic drop with none of the ‘confection’ character seen in some grenache. This is a serious red with considerable cellaring potential. See www.kalleske.com