Yearly Archives: 2009

Aussie, French, US and Chilean cabernets reviewed

17 June 2009People, Wine, Wine reviewChris Shanahan

While shiraz and chardonnay slug it out for top spot (we produced 436 thousand and 445 thousand tonnes respectively in 2008), cabernet holds confidently to its less publicised third position at 254 thousand tonnes.

Like shiraz, it works in a variety of regions, if not as easily, producing robust, pleasing flavours – albeit with a boost, on occasion, through the addition of shiraz, merlot, malbec or petit verdot.

Like shiraz, it’s a variety that performs across price points from wine casks, to function wines to wines that can hold their own in any company in the world.

This is a review of some that’ve drifted across the Chateau Shanahan tasting bench recently.

Majella The Musician Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz 2008 $18
Prof and Tony Lynn’s Musician gives elegance a good name. It’s sourced entirely from the Lynn’s southern Coonawarra vineyard and made specifically for early drinking. It captures Coonawarra’s bright, magic berry aromas and flavours. And though it’s soft and easy to drink, it still has the structure of a real red. The sensational 2007 is still available around town, but we can move onto the vibrant 2008 with equal confidence when the 2007 sells out. I rate this as my top Australian red under $20.

Knappstein Clare Valley Enterprise Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $42
Alas, the musty, mouldy reek of cork taint ruined a wine that, on reputation, should’ve been superb. We could be generous to the winemakers and say, oh dear, what bad luck. But realistically, guys, you make your own luck with seals these days. How about a screw cap next vintage?

Balnaves Coonawarra ‘The Tally’ 2007 $90
This one cuts the mustard in any company – a deep and powerful but elegant red built for long cellaring. It’s from two of Doug Balnave’s best vineyards and matured in top-notch new French oak – a classic example of ‘letting the wine eat the oak, not letting the oak eat the wine’. In a scaled down version, Balnaves Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($35) and Cabernet Merlot 2007 ($24) also deliver Coonawarra flavour, elegance and drinkability. This is a great estate.

Stags’ Leap Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $60
Farmer Bros imported this into Canberra in the late seventies and early eighties when good Australian cabernets were scarce. The competition’s fiercer now (cabernet’s second only to shiraz in volume), so at $60 it’s a bold move by Foster’s. It’s big, ripe style of cabernet, with juicy, blackcurrant-like flavours offset by firm, ripe tannins. It looks young and fresh at four years’ age and probably will drink well for a decade or two. A superb wine.

Barwang Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $20
This is a solid cabernet, made by McWilliams from their Barwang Vineyard located at nearby Young (the Hilltops region). The underlying ripe, varietal flavours manage to push up through assertive, firm, drying tannins. Needs a good chunk of protein (rare steak would be good) to cut through that firm structure. Very good value and sometimes discounted well below the $20 recommended price.

Penny’s Hill McLaren Vale Cabernet 2007 $24
This is a big, ripe red from the warm McLaren Vale region. The firm tannins suggest cabernet, but in the aroma and flavour the varietal character becomes a little blurred. It’s a nice, chunky red offering fair value.

Howard Park Scotsdale Great Southern Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $40
We return to sharp varietal definition in two contrasting Howard Park wines from individual vineyards in Western Australia’s Great Southern and Margaret River regions. The Great Southern wine presents ripe-berry flavours – in a lovely interplay with classy oak – without the leafy notes (usually indicative of a cool season) seen in the Margaret River wine. Scotsdale features very intense, very young flavours and taut, elegant structure.

Howard Park Leston Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $40
Just as in the Scotsdale vineyard wine, high-quality oak plays a dominant flavour role in Leston. It’s symbiotic relationship between oak and fruit that lifts the wine to a more complex, enjoyable level. There’s crystal-clear varietal definition, too, with that ‘leafy’ edge adding more complexity, as it doesn’t descend into green, unripe characters. In this wine it’s part of a harmonious, high-toned, elegant cabernet of considerable strength. These Howard Park cabernets are strong, characterful wines needing a few more years’ bottle age to reveal their best.

Moss Wood Margaret River Moss Wood Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $100
The law of diminishing returns applies as much to the wine world as any other. So, no, Moss Wood isn’t two and a half times better than the $40 Howard Park wines. But there’s discernibly more body, extra flavour concentration and a lovely slick, silky depth – in the taut, elegant regional mould. The lofty price reflects scarcity and a hard-won reputation earned over many decades by one of Margaret River’s oldest vineyards (founded 1969). Pure class.

Cape Mentelle Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $84
This is another of the time-proven Margaret River cabernets, founded by David Hohnen in 1970 and now owned by Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton. It’s a firmer, more tannic wine than the Moss Wood with quite strong ‘tomato leaf’ character seasoning the riper, underlying cabernet berry flavours. While the austerity of the tannins seems in keeping with a cabernet of this fruit intensity, I suspect it’s not one of the Cape Mentelle greats and I have a caveat on the persistent ‘leafy’ character in this wine. At this price caveats are significant.

Juniper Estate Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $40
Juniper, too, comes from old (36 years) Margaret River vines, and, like Cape Mentelle, shows some austere tannins. But there’s a good depth of varietal fruit to match – adding up to good value in this distinguished company.

Helm Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $52
For the second year in a row Ken Helm (hand-in-hand with grape grower Al Lustenberger) has banished the green notes that blighted too many Canberra cabernets in the past. The 2006 is opulent by comparison with those earlier wines. Indeed, there’s a plush depth to the fruit, good varietal definition and ripe, firm tannins to hold it all together. But there’s one last frontier for Ken to conquer – oak – if he’s to justify the $52 price tag and bear comparison with the greats. The Howard Park, Moss Wood, and Balnaves wines in particular demonstrate how the right oak lifts high-calibre wine to another flavour and structural dimension.

Chateau Peyrabon Haut-Medoc 2005 $29.40
As a retailer I made several trips to Bordeaux seeking mid-priced cabernets for the Australian market – but gave up. The quality was there in abundance at higher prices. But occasionally, it seems, $30 wines, like this Woolworths’ import for its Dan Murphy chain, just trip over the ‘value’ line. It’s not comparable in style, say, to Balnaves cabernet at $24. But it’s a decent, solid wine from a strong vintage, featuring ripe fruit and the classic, austere ‘claret’ tannin structure. It’s fully priced at $29.40, so watch for the specials!

Montes Apalta Vineyard Colchagua Valley Chile Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenere 2007 $14.60
Note to Woolies’ wine buyers: have you actually tasted this?

Wine review — Clonakilla, Overstone, Annie’s Lane and d’Arenberg

14 June 2009Wine reviewChris Shanahan

Clonakilla Canberra District Jack Reidy Shiraz 2008 $27–$30
Clonakilla’s Tim Kirk made this blend for the Wesfarmer owned Vintage Cellars chain, using fruit from the Long Rail Gully, Dean Terrell and Phil Williams vineyards. It’s a close cellar mate to Clonakilla O’Riada Shiraz ($35 cellar door) – but without the benefit of declassified components from Clonakilla’s flagship shiraz-viognier blend. It’s in the fine-boned, savoury Canberra style, albeit a little tart and raw on first opening. But exposure to air rounds these edges, revealing the underlying pure, lovely cool-climate shiraz flavours. I’d suggest future vintages might allow a couple of extra months each in oak and bottle before release.

Overstone Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008 $12–$14
Pinot noir comes in a wide spectrum of styles, from pale and sweetish rosés, to voluptuous, silky, long-lived reds that can be very firm when young. This one sits in between. It’s medium ruby in colour, intensely aromatic, and unmistakably pinot – but towards the lighter end of the variety’s flavour spectrum. The flavour’s bright, pure and varietal. And the structure of zesty acid and fine tannin puts it squarely in the light-to-medium bodied luncheon style – a red to serve lightly chilled in warm weather. Overstone is sold only through the Woolworths owned Dan Murphy liquor chain.

Annie’s Lane Clare Valley Riesling 2008 $16–$20
d’Arenberg McLaren Vale Viognier Marsanne 2008 $13–$15
These contrasting, fruity dry whites suit spicy Asian food well. At a refreshingly low 11.5% alcohol, Annie’s Lane delivers riesling’s lovely floral aromatics and flavours and crisp, lemon fresh finish. The bright fruit and crispness made it an easy match for a range of spicy to hot dishes at the Taj Mahal, a restaurant that appears not to have changed since the mid seventies. In d’Arenberg’s white blend, marsanne tempers the viognier, a variety that tends to be a little too fat, juicy on its own. The result is a very fruity, round and soft wine with enough acid to carry the varied food at Sammy’s Kitchen.

Taking our wine names to the world

10 June 2009People, WineChris Shanahan

For all the international success of Australian wine (we exported $2.46 billion worth in the year to January 2009, 17% less than in the year to January 2008), our export markets know little of the diverse regional wine styles flowing from our 112 official ‘geographic indications’ (GIs).

Our export success to date rests primarily on ‘brand Australia’ – based on fruity, fresh, reliable varietals, more often than not sourced from multiple regions and bearing the generic origin ‘South Eastern Australia’.

It has been a remarkable achievement requiring a massive investment in vineyards, wineries, inventory, marketing and distribution. And while it provides a solid base for expansion, the fairly narrow focus to date tends to typecast Australia as one big, hot country producing predictably fruity, alcoholic wines.

About twenty years after Penfolds Grange won its international reputation as ‘the one true first growth of the southern hemisphere’, accolades for our upmarket wines tend to be more for our big, juicy, warm-climate reds, notably shiraz, then for any other of our specialties.

We shouldn’t lament that success. But we do need to tell the rest of the story – perhaps starting with the world’s opinion makers and chipping away year after year. We certainly have the wines to build an expanded image of Australia.

Just how entrenched the image is came through at a large-scale pinot noir tasting on the Mornington Peninsula in February. The UK’s Jancis Robinson, no stranger to Australian wine (she recognised the unique glory of Hunter semillon quarter of a century ago), said the Australian pinots would turn heads in London. They were more refined and delicate than she’d anticipated.

At the same event, on his first visit to Australia, respected Burgundian vigneron, Frederic Mugnier, said, “Australian pinot is not at all what I thought it would be. They are much better. The stereotype I had in mind was of dark, thick and jammy wines. They are the reverse – delicate, fluid, juicy and delicious – bravo”.

That was the wine talking of course – carefully selected examples of the best from Tasmania, Yarra Valley, Mornington and Macedon. One sip beats a thousand press releases.

Good wine always talks. At a Sydney dinner we wowed Dino and Stefano Illuminati, vignerons from Abruzzi, Italy, with 1998 vintage Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Stonewell Shiraz – a big, warm, sublime, and stereotypical, Australian shiraz.

It was the sort of wine they’d become used to in their visits to Australia since the early nineties. They loved the style, partly because it related it to their own robust, earthy reds made from the montepulciano grape.

But they were not prepared for their next Australian shiraz, served blind at Sydney’s Level Forty-One Restaurant. The harbour lights sparkled far below. The waiter splashed the limpid, shimmering, crimson-rimmed mystery red from the crystal decanter into our Riedel glasses.

Dino’s expressive face lit up as he swirled the glass and sniffed. ‘Fantastico’, he said. Stefano agreed. They loved its beautiful fragrance and graceful, supple, plush palate. Quickly they agreed that it was French – and magnificent.
“Yes”, we Aussies agreed, “it’s a beautiful wine. But it’s Australian”. “No”, the Illuminatis gasped together. “This can’t be Australian”. Even more shocking was the revelation that it came from Canberra – Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2006. Once again, the wine had spoken. For the Illuminatis the stereotype was smashed – in the most delightful way imaginable.

They wanted to know about Canberra and how it was different from the Barossa and did Australia really make more than one style of shiraz. They’re keen to learn more on future visits.

Bit by bit, over time, our industry has to paint this picture to drinkers and opinion makers around the world.

And just as our industry brought leading writers to Australia twenty years ago, at the dawn of our big export push, it’s commencing a new pitch to the international opinion makers through the first ‘Landmark Australia Tutorial’.

The series of tutorials, held in the Barossa between the first and fifth of June, presented 248 top-notch Australian wines to a dozen carefully selected international communicators. The wines covered more than half a century of vintages, including Seppelt Great Western Hermitage K72 Shiraz, Wynns Coonawarra Michael Hermitage 1995 and Penfolds Grange 1955 and a diverse range of modern wines.

You can read more about the event at www.landmark-wineaustralia.com

Beer review — James Squire Hop Thief 2009

10 June 2009Beer reviewChris Shanahan

James Squire Hop Thief Ale 2009 345ml 6-pack $18
I rate Hop Thief as the most harmonious of the five hop-season brews reviewed in the last few weeks. It marries tangy, herbal, hops aromas, flavour and lingering bitterness perfectly with the rich, underlying malt flavours. This is another brewing masterpiece from Chuck Hahn and his gang in Camperdown, Sydney.

Hop Thief steals the show

10 June 2009BeerChris Shanahan

Chuck Hahn and his James Squire team brewed their first Hop Thief Ale shortly after the hop harvest in 2006. For that brew, says Chuck, they used carefully selected new hop varieties from New Zealand.

In 2007, Chuck moved the focus to America, testing ten new varieties and selecting two for the brew that eventually made it to Australian retail shelves.

There was no 2008 Hop Thief. But it’s back this year as a rich, malty, complex ale, featuring hops from the first tangy-sweet sniff to the lingering bitter finish. And it achieves this without the resiny flavour build up that sometimes takes over hoppy beers.

Chuck used hop three varieties at different production stages. Pride of Ringwood and Galaxy, added to the kettle, drive the bitterness and passionfruit notes, says Chuck.

And late hopping with Southern Hallertau (a German Australian cross) boosted the aroma and liveliness of the flavour. For this final step in production the brewers passed the beer through a container of fresh hops – similar to Wig & Pen’s approach for its on-tap Hop Heads Ale.

We enjoy hops in beer all year, of course. But there’s a special freshness to these seasonal brews. And they’re best enjoyed as soon as they’re released.

Wine review — Printhie, Peppertree, Penfolds, Seppeltsfield and Brokenwood

7 June 2009Wine reviewChris Shanahan

Printhie Orange Chardonnay 2008 $15–$17
Peppertree Venus Block Orange Chardonnay 2008 $24–$26
Penfolds Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2008 $35–$43
These wines present three different faces of local, cool-grown chardonnay. Printhie, from the cool heights of Mount Canobolas, Orange, expresses the zesty, fresh and delicious citrus flavours of the variety unadorned by winemaking tricks. The Penfolds wine, from Tumbarumba, in the lee of the Snowies, presents a complex but very finely textured, tending to austere, face of chardonnay built to last. And Pepper Tree displays the full gamut of winemaker inputs related to oak maturation and secondary fermentation. It’s notably fuller bodied than the other two, but retains the racy freshness of cool-grown chardonnay.

Seppeltsfield Barossa fortified wines 500ml

Vera Viola Oloroso DP38 $32
Clara Blanc Amontillado DP116 $26
Flora Fino DP117 $22

Our December 2008 agreement with Europe spells the end of ‘sherry’, ‘oloroso’, ‘amontillado’ and ‘fino’ on our wine labels. Instead we’ll see, from some makers at least, ‘sherry’ replaced by ‘apera’ (a frivolous play on ‘aperitif’) and from Seppeltsfield the proprietary terms Vera Viola, Clara Blanc and Flora, in company with the familiar old DP numbers, replacing ‘oloroso’, ‘amontillado’ and ‘fino’. Whatever they’re called though, these are three of the most decorated, delicious and overlooked wines in Australia – the fine, dust-dry, tangy Flora; rich, dry, nutty Clara Blanc; and the fine, luscious, mellow Vera Viola.

Brokenwood Brycefield, Belford Vineyards Hunter Valley Semillon 2005 $36
The best Hunter semillons need years of bottle age – sometimes decades – to develop their greatest flavours. They’re low alcohol wines (this one’s just 11 per cent) and when young tend to delicacy, purity and austerity – a pleasing combination with some foods. Age takes the edge off the austerity and complex flavours develop around the core lemony varietal character, arriving at a distinctive ‘toasty’ phase perhaps ten or twenty years from vintage. This beautiful blend, from vineyards in the Hunter’s Lovedale and Belford sub-regions, leans towards the youthful, pure, zesty, delicate phase – but at four years’ age the first, subtle mature notes are beginning to show.

Who’ll tell grandma?

3 June 2009WineChris Shanahan

In December last year Australia and Europe tied off a loose end that had been dangling since March 1994. But who’s going to tell grandma that the agreement spells the end of Australian ‘sherry’ (the name at least, if not the drink)?

We’d committed to dropping European wine names from our labels under a wine trade agreement on 1 March 1994. However, the agreement hadn’t specified the phase-out period. But the new agreement, signed in Brussels on 1 December 2008, details how and when we drop the few remaining European place names – plus a long list of ‘traditional expressions’ – from our labels.

The agreement will become effective when Australia amends the Australian Wine and Brand Corporation Act 1980 and Trade Marks Act 1995. From that point we have one year to phase out our use of Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne, Graves, Manzanilla, Marsala, Moselle, Port, Sauterne, Sherry (poor grandma) and White Burgundy, and ten years to drop ‘tokay’.

And good news for grandma – at a cost of a reported $1million ($500,000 of it from the Australian Government) the industry’s come up with a new name for Australian sherry. The draft Fortified Wine Code of Practice proposes ‘Apera’ – a word play on ‘aperitif’ – to apply across the whole sherry flavour spectrum, including those that aren’t aperitif styles. Don’t you just love committees?

But if grandma drinks commercial Apera, the transition may not be too confusing as the current descriptors ‘dry’, ‘medium dry’, ‘semi sweet’ and ‘cream’ are to remain. If, however, she enjoys a more expensive drop, she’ll search in vain for the now-forbidden ‘fino’, ‘amontillado’ and ‘oloroso’. These, too, will be replaced with style descriptors above.

The committee that gave us Apera also offers ‘Topaque’ as the replacement name for Tokay – the luscious, aged fortified wine made from the muscadelle grape, most famously in Rutherglen, northeastern Victoria.

This final mop-up of European place names is just the last fiddly little bit of a transformation that began in Australia long before the 1994 or 2008 agreements with Europe.

In reality, when did anyone last see on a retail shelf an Australian ‘Chablis’, ‘Champagne’ or ‘Burgundy’? Regional, varietal labelling began to replace these outmoded, derivative generic terms in the late seventies, gathered a head of steam during the eighties and had become mainstream by the time of the 1994 agreement.

And something the sherry – sorry, Apera – makers might note is the futile push by some in the eighties and nineties to come up with an Australian term for ‘Champagne’. Most makers didn’t give a toss. Rightly, they saw the discussion as irrelevant.

Large-scale commercial brands like Minchinbury and Great Western simply removed the word ‘Champagne’ from their labels. The strength of the brands and packaging said all that needed to be said.

And upmarket producers took individual approaches. Why, they reasoned, would a big country like Australia, with a diversity of sparkling-making regions and winemaker approaches, need a single name for upmarket bubbly styles? France’s Champagne was the distinctive product of a single region – hence, the regional name.

Our top makers gave us Croser, Pirie, Arras, Salinger, Chandon, Hanging Rock – and many more individual brands packaged clearly as high-quality sparklers and quite often with varietal and regional information on the label. Quite simply, we didn’t need a single name. Indeed, creating one would have been a diversion from our more innovative, regional and cross-regional-blending approaches.

While it’s easy to focus on what the agreement with Europe takes away from us, it’s probably more important to see the protection it gives to our own wine names and winemaking practices.

The irony is that when we signed the 1994 agreement with Europe, we didn’t even have defensible regional names. The 1994 agreement forced us to develop our Geographic Indications system – the official naming and registering of our regions.

We initially defined Australia, then the states then the engine room of our burgeoning export industry, ‘South Eastern Australia’, embracing much of NSW, Victoria and South Australia. Then began the hard grind of defining zones within each state, then within the zones, regions, and within some regions, sub-regions to go on the register of protected names.

The new agreement protects our 112 place names, just as it protects Europe’s more than 2,500. It also accepts many Australian winemaking techniques and eases the entry of our wines into Europe.

Grandma will soon get used to sipping McWilliams Cream or Seppelt Fine Apera. But the bigger challenge for Australian winemakers will be to convince the world that we’re not just one big, hot country making a single wine style. We’ve got a huge task ahead to reveal the tremendous diversity of styles produced across our 112 official wine growing areas.

Beer review — Cascade First Harvest Ale 2009

3 June 2009Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Cascade First Harvest Ale 330ml bottle $4.59
Cascade’s eighth salute to the hops harvest is a medium amber colour brew. It’s lively and fresh, with rich underlying malt flavour and pervasive, refreshing, tangy, bitter hops. The bitterness builds as you sip, but in a pleasant way – and it’s offset by the delicious rich malt flavour.

Cascade’s all-Tassie hop celebration

3 June 2009BeerChris Shanahan

Eight years ago Max Burslem brewed Cascade’s inaugural ‘First Harvest’ ale – a beer dedicated to Tasmania’s hop harvest.

The just released 2009 vintage, coinciding with Max’s fortieth year with Cascade, uses fresh hops flowers from three experimental hops varieties that Max says ‘have never been used in brewing before’.

Max even named the three varieties himself, honouring Tasmania’s earliest hops pioneers Richard Clarke, Ebenzer Shoobridge and the Francomb family. Max says that Clarke grew Tasmania’s first hops, Shoobridge established the industry in the Derwent Valley and the Frankcomb family pioneered the Huon Valley.

The hops for first harvest came from the Derwent Valley’s Bushy Park Estate hop field, site of Shoobridge’s plantings. In the brewing process they join Tasmanian barley, malted at Cascade’s own malt house.

Each brewer has his own style – and this is streets away from the Wig & Pen’s on-tap versions reviewed here last week. Max’s is less in-your-face in the hops department and not as aromatic. Against a background flavour of rich, smooth malt First Harvest focuses more on hops flavour and its pervading, loveable bitterness.

And next week we’ll look at Chuck Hahn’s James Squire Hop Thief. It’s bound to be utterly different again, but still in the zesty, bitter hops mould.

Wine review — Wallaroo, Coriole and Chapel Hill

31 May 2009Wine reviewChris Shanahan

Wallaroo Wines Canberra District Shiraz 2006 $28
This delicious, fine-boned shiraz, from Canberra’s Hall sub-region, earned a silver medal a few weeks back in Decanter magazine’s World Wine Awards, London – putting it in the top 13 per cent of the approximately ten thousand wines judged at the event. Roger Harris made the wine at Brindabella Hills Winery, using fruit from the neighbouring Wallaroo Vineyard. It’s notably paler in colour than the three McLaren Vale shirazes reviewed below. But that’s exactly what you’d expect from cooler Canberra – fine, elegant wines with silky texture and intense berry and spice flavours. This is a lovely regional style. See www.wallaroowines.com.au

Coriole McLaren Vale Redstone Shiraz$16–$19
Coriole McLaren Vale Estate Grown Shiraz 2006 $25–$28
Coriole’s a consistent McLaren Vale performer, offering harmonious, full, ripe regional reds that never tip into the over-ripe, porty style and always come with a satisfying savoury edge. Redstone, an old favourite, delivers bright, fruity flavours and soft tannins with the appreciable extra dimension of age (2006 vintage versus the more usual 2007 or 2008 at this price). Its cellar mate, sourced entirely from Coriole Estate (in the Vale’s Seaview sub-region) offers more intense flavours, savouriness and an appealing supple, smooth texture – though there’s a good load of tannin there to match the fruit. Should cellar well for a decade or so.

Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 $27–$30
Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $27–$30
Chapel Hill winery backs onto the Onkaparinga Gorge, high up in McLaren and built its reputation under the now retired Pam Dunsford. Michael Fragos, an old McLaren Vale hand, formerly with Tatachilla, now makes the wine. These are at the big end of the regional style. But they’re well balanced, with crystal clear varietal character. While shiraz is the regional specialty, cabernet performs well, too, as the robust Chapel Hill demonstrates – it’s full, firm and offers the rich mid-palate flavour sometimes missing in warm-climate styles. The shiraz is very deep and purple rimmed with pure, ripe-black-cherry varietal flavour.