Chris Shanahan: Wine review — Zeppelin, Hewitson and Bleasdale

Zeppelin Eden Valley Riesling 2010 $16–$20
Zeppelin wines are made by Barossa specialists Kym Teusner and Corey Ryan and distributed by McWilliams. Ryan made this wine and writes, “Sourced from a 25 year old, low yielding, dry grown vineyard. Hand picked and then whole bunch pressed with only the lowest yielding free run juice used”. This translates in the very cool 2011 vintage to an intensely flavoured but delicate riesling with a bracing spine of acidity. The acidity accentuates the lemony varietal flavour, dries out the finish and probably guarantees a good cellaring life for the wine.

Hewitson McLaren Vale The Mad Hatter Shiraz 2010 $70
Hewitson Old Garden Barossa Valley Mourvedre 2010 $110
These are tiny production wines from old vineyards located in McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley, both matured in all-new oak carefully (and successfully) selected to match the fruit. The Mad Hatter comes from a very old vineyard at Blewitt Springs, and Old Garden from a Barossa vineyard planted in 1853. Winemaker Dean Hewitson believes these to be the oldest mourvedre vines in the world. Both are great and unique wines, expressing the fruit flavours of their vineyards, enhanced and not overwhelmed by all the new oak.

Bleasdale Langhorne Creek Uncle Dick’s Malbec 2010 $99 dozen
Bleasdale channels bits and pieces of its substantial and diverse production into the Uncle Dick’s label, created especially for its online wine club. This is good news for drinkers because the wines are very good but cheaper than the mainstream Bleasdale label. Malbec – a red variety the Langhorne Creek region does particularly well – appeals for its rich, ripe, plummy flavours and firm but not hard tannins. It’s a little different, but easy to love and very cheap at $99 a dozen – available only through the cellar door.