Chris Shanahan: Wine review – Four Tonne Project, Four Winds, Jacob’s Creek

The Four Tonne Project Canberra District Shiraz 2015 6-pack $100
In the 2015 vintage, two Canberra wineries turned four tonnes of excess shiraz from Four Winds vineyard into a tasty fund raiser for Companion House – a provider of support to asylum seekers and refugees living in Canberra. Collector’s Alex McKay and Eden Road’s Nick Spencer and Hamish young produced perhaps the best red you’ll ever buy at this price. The medium bodied wine combines vibrant summer-berry varietal flavours with regional spice and subtle, stalky notes (and silky texture) derived from the inclusion of whole bunches in the ferment. It’s available at fourwindsvineyard.com.au and $174 from each case goes to Companion House.

Four Winds Vineyard Canberra District Riesling 2015 $25
The riesling vine performs well across the Canberra district, from the lowest altitude warmest sites to the highest and coolest – a range of over 300 metres. And in 2015 every one of our widely spread sub-regions produced beautiful rieslings. Styles vary slightly with the sub-region and winemaking inputs, but there’s a regional thumbprint, too. The wines tend to be shy and sometimes austere on first release, but as the months tick by the delicious citrus-like varietal flavour sticks its head above the acidity. Four Winds 2015 is in that delicious zone now, offering ultra-fresh, delicate fruit flavours, racy acidity and dry finish.

Jacob’s Creek Classic Shiraz 2014 $5.65–$10
In 1976 Orlando Wines launched Jacob’s Creek Claret along with a raft of other now defunct labels. Jacob’s Creek alone flourished, first in Australia and then on a large scale in export markets, notably the UK. It started as a single product – a shiraz cabernet malbec blend labelled as “claret”. The makers gradually added other varieties and introduced wines at higher price points. Despite this so-called “premiumisation” of Jacob’s Creek, the lower price classic range remains the biggest seller. And little wonder – the quality is excellent as in this medium bodied red with its gentle, ripe varietal flavour and soft, dry finish.