Domain Day ‘g’ Garganega 2009 $20
Mount Crawford, South Australia
If you’ve enjoyed Soave, Verona’s famous dry white, then you’ve enjoyed garganega, one of Italy’s many native grape varieties. Robin Day claims his planting at Mount Crawford to be the first outside of Italy. From it he makes a full-bodied, distinctively flavoured dry white. It has some tropical fruit aromas. But there’s another delicious element – reminiscent of sweet and sour, not-quite-bitter honeydew melon, where the flesh meets the rind.

Wallaroo Riesling 2009 $16.67–$20
Hall, Australian Capital Territory
Wallaroo riesling has been a consistent medal winner at the Canberra Regional Wine Show. The gongs include gold medals for the 2002, 2007 (plus trophy) and 2008 vintages and bronzes for the 2005 and 2006. The vineyard is located on the Murrumbidgee Valley side of Hall and the wines are made by Dr Roger Harris at nearby Brindabella Hills. The 2009 is an attractively perfumed, delicate, dry style with pure, lemon-like varietal flavour.

Villa Maria Blanc 2009 $20
Marlborough, New Zealand
George Fistonich founded Villa Maria way back in 1961 and still heads it. It’s one of New Zealand’s most dynamic companies, covering most segments of the market, and making outstanding wines. It has a big presence in Hawkes Bay on the North Island with its Villa Maria and Vidal labels as well as in Marlborough. In the latter it makes notable pinot noir as well as this outstanding sauvignon blanc. It’s quintessential Marlborough with in-your-face capsicum-like varietal flavour and rich, fleshy, zingy fresh palate.

Grove Estate The Cellar Block Shiraz Viognier 2008 $38
Hilltops Region, Young, New South Wales
What a glorious red. It’s saturated with juicy, plush varietal flavours – reminiscent of ripe, dark berries – seamlessly meshed with the slipperiest, smoothest tannins imaginable. A touch of the white variety, viognier, in the blend lifts the aroma and probably accounts, in part, for the vivacity of the fruit flavours. It’s from the Grove Estate vineyard, established by the Flanders, Kirkwood and Mullany families in 1989. Made by Tim Kirk at Clonakilla, Murrumbateman.

Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $60
Margaret River, Western Australia
It’s labelled as “cabernet sauvignon merlot”, after the two dominant varieties, but a dab of malbec and petit verdot contribute to a sensational blend – ripe and powerful, but restrained and elegant at the same time. The aroma’s not unlike a good Medoc in a ripe year; but the vibrant fruit and soft tannins give an Australian accent. It’s looking very young at five years and should provide exciting drinking for many decades if well cellared.

Chapel Hill Il Vescovo Tempranillo 2009 $20
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
There’s no winemaker artifice here, just a pure, exuberant, fruity expression of Spain’s popular red variety. It begins fragrant, fleshy and fruity ¬– like a combination of ripe blueberry and mulberry – and as you sip away the savoury tannins step in, providing an authoritative real-red-wine finish. Winemaker Michael Fragos reserves Chapel Hill’s Il Vescovo label to emerging varieties, including this wine and a very good white savagnin (initially labelled as albarino).

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2010

The Hilltops wine region, centred on Young, an hour and a half’s drive north from here, emerged at about the same time as Canberra’s. In 1969, just two years before CSIRO Drs John Kirk and Edgar Riek planted vines, independently of one another, at Murrumbateman and Lake George, cherry farmer, the late Peter Robertson, established a vineyard on his property, Barwang at Young.

The quality of fruit from Robertson’s vines encouraged its eventual expansion to 100 hectares and, ultimately, its full acquisition by McWilliams in 1989 after a period of joint venture with the Robertson family.

For a time in the late eighties, under McWilliams ownership, Barwang was seen by some in the company as a source of rich flavours whose best use might be to rev up multi-regional blends.

However, there were dissenting voices in the ranks at McWilliams. Two voices in particular, those of Doug McWilliam and chief winemaker, Jim Brayne, argued the case for an estate-grown wine bearing the Barwang and, hence, Young, name (the Hilltops region, its ultimate appellation, didn’t yet exist).

The McWilliams boss at the time, Don McWilliam, a proponent, as I recall, of the blend-it-away point of view, with support from Doug and Jim invited Australia’s wine journalists to visit Barwang, inspect the vines, taste its wines and to argue for or against a regional brand.

Doug McWilliam and Brayne anticipated support from the writers and got it – a unanimous vote to build Barwang’s regional identity. Perhaps our support twenty years ago played a small part in McWilliams’ decision to continue making and marketing the now well-known Barwang wines.

For the many other winemakers in the area it was a significant decision – a case where the presence of a large company in an emerging region raised the area’s profile through its nationwide distribution. Barwang also helped legitimise Hilltops through the high quality, and significant wine show success, of its wines.

But even after McWilliams’ decision to keep the Barwang brand, other forces made Hilltops, for a time, source of multi-regional blending material. In the mid to late nineties, Australia’s export juggernaut was sucking the country dry of red wine.

To meet what appeared to be endless demand, large makers, notably Southcorp, encouraged broad acre planting along the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range – from Mudgee in the north to Gundagai in the south. On an extensive tour of these areas in the late nineties with Southcorp viticulturist, Bruce Brown, the Hilltops region featured as one of the key sources of high quality red grapes.

The area under vine in Hilltops increased during this period. However, this put pressure on grape growers as demand waned this decade. But it also created opportunities for small makers outside the area.

Canberra’s Clonakilla, for example, built on the success of its flagship shiraz viognier blend with a comparatively big volume Hilltops shiraz that sells for about one third the price. And last year Eden Road Winery, based in the old Kamberra building, won the Jimmy Watson Trophy with a 2008 Hilltops shiraz, sourced primarily from Jason and Alecia Brown’s Moppity Vineyards. Importantly, these small external makers acknowledge Hilltops on the label.

The wines are simply too good and distinctive to blend away. And these successes add to the sizzle being created by Young’s resident vignerons.

Though Barwang shiraz and cabernet sauvignon remain perhaps the most visible of the Hilltops resident producers, Grove Estate, Chalkers Crossing, Freeman and Moppity Vineyards all make impressive wines.

Freeman, established in 1999, focuses on Italian styles. Brian Freeman’s flagship, a blend of the Veneto red varieties rondinella and corvina, is a brilliant Australian take on Valpolicella’s “Amarone” style, made from dried grapes. But rather than go the whole hog like the Italians, Freeman uses mainly fresh grapes, adding a portion of dehydrated berries during fermentation. The result is a very full, ripe red with a distinctive ripe black-cherry flavour – with undertones of port and prune and a pleasantly tart, savoury edge.

He backs the red up with the delicious “Fortuna”, a savoury, Italian-style, white blend of pinot gris, riesling, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and aleatico.

Another comparative newcomer, Ted Ambler, planted his first vines near Young in 1997, employing French winemaker Celine Rousseau to make the first Chalkers Crossing wines in 2000. Her graceful, elegant wines, shiraz in particular, have been some of the best to emerge from the region. Chalkers Crossing produces shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, riesling and semillon from Hilltops; and chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc from nearby (and cooler) Tumbarumba.

Next we’ll look at the interesting history and wines from Moppity Vineyards, founded originally as Moppity Park in 1973 and bought by the Brown family in 2004 and Grove Estate, established by Brian Mullany and partners in 1989.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2010

The release this month of an extraordinary red, Hewitson 1853 Old Garden Barossa Valley Mourvedre 2008 ($69), begs the question, what is mourvedre? There’s not a lot of it grown in Australia – in 2008 just 785 hectares, mostly in the Barossa Valley – yet it’s survived here for almost two hundred years. And even if we’ve not heard of it, we’ve almost certainly enjoyed mourvedre (aka mataro), acknowledged or not in red blends or as an anonymous component in Australian “port”.

Descriptions of mourvedre contradict one another. Can it really be soft and fruity but also tannic and iron-hard; both low in acid with little colour and searingly acidic and opaque? The answer appears to be yes. Consider these contrasting accounts of Spanish and Australian mourvedre/monastrell/mataro from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine and Rolf Binder’s Veritas Winery website.

Jancis Robinson: “The wine produced from monastrell’s small, sweet, thick-skinned berries tends to be heady stuff, high in alcohol, tannins and a somewhat gamey almost animal flavour”.  Rolf Binder: “A mataro berry is about 1.5 times larger than a shiraz berry so bleeding off juice increases the juice to skin ratio” – in short, Binder bleeds juice off to increase extraction of tannin and colour, something his Spanish peers don’t’ need to do.

Robinson also writes that in southern France “mourvedre is considered an improving structural ingredient – a sort of vinous RSJ” – suggesting its firm tannins give the backbone lacking in the companion varieties, shiraz, grenache and cinsault.

Dean Hewitson offers two possible reasons for southern French mourvedre’s comparative toughness. The first, and most likely, he believes, is that varieties are mixed in the vineyard in the Rhone Valley but they ripen at different times. Therefore if a grower harvests a vineyard when the grenache is ripe, the mourvedre will be unripe, with hard tannins.

The second, is that the devastation of European vineyards by phylloxera in the late nineteenth century may have resulted in significant clonal differences between Australia and Europe. Barossa plantings are all pre-phylloxera and may be “clonally softer in tannin”, suggests Hewitson.

Because mourvedre buds and ripens very late, it needs plenty of late season heat. Little wonder, then, that it’s at home in the hot Barossa and Spain, but pushes only into southern France, and even there can struggle to ripen. (Follow a Rolf Binder 100-year-old Barossa bush-vine mourvedre from budburst to harvest to vinification at www.rolfbinder.com/index_alt.php?cmi=6001).

In Australia as in France and Spain, mourvedre plays mainly a support role to other varieties, historically for “port” and increasingly for red table wine. In the mid eighties the so-called Rhone Rangers led the Barossa revival of grenache-shiraz-mourvedre blends. This group, including Charlie Melton, Rocky O’Callaghan and Bob McLean, took the unique beauty of the Barossa’s very old vines to the world.

Mourvedre played a key role in their blends. But they weren’t the first to gain recognition, as Penfolds Shiraz Mataro Bin 2, made from 1960, remained popular until its discontinuation in the seventies. It was resurrected in 1980 and 1981, then discontinued and the remainder shipped to the UK. Production of Bin 2, now labelled as shiraz mourvedre, commenced again in 1990.

In The Rewards of Patience, edition four, 2000, Penfolds claims Bin 2 opened the UK market to Australian wine, “Originally, Bin 2 was a result of experimental work on the medium-bodied, soft-finishing ‘Australian Burgundy’ style, traditionally based on shiraz. The addition of mourvedre may also explain Bin 2’s success with British wine drinkers, as this variety has the effect of moderating the richness of shiraz, making the wine leaner and more European in both style and structure”.

Mourvedre seems set to continue its supporting role to shiraz and grenache. But Hewitson and Binder have both made jaw-dropping straight varietals as thrilling as any red on the market.

However, Dean Hewitson cautions, “It’s a matter of understanding when it’s a blending grape and when it’s not to blend”. He sources mourvedre from a dozen or so vineyards across the Barossa, several of them more than a century old, but still uses it principally as a blender, “to add complexity to Miss Harry [his grenache, shiraz, mourvedre, cinsault blend] and dimension to Ned and Henry’s [shiraz with a splash of mourvedre]”.

He adds that mourvedre’s not as forgiving a variety as shiraz or cabernet and it needs to be from a very special site – typically in sandy soils – to stand on its own.

Hewitson made his first straight varietal in 1998 from eight rows of mourvedre vines, remnants of a larger vineyard planted by Friedrich Koch in 1853, near the North Para River at Roland Flat, Southern Barossa. The vines are direct descendents of the collection brought to Australia by James Busby in1832.

Those remaining vines, he says, witnessed all the fads and fashions of the Australian wine industry, from fortified to table wine, and even contributed fruit to Orlando Carrington Blush bubbly in the eighties.

The mourvedre plantings had been more extensive, but the Koch family replaced them progressively with more fashionable varieties until Hewitson contracted the last eight rows in 1998.

From 1996 Hewitson propagated new vineyards using cuttings from the best of the old vines. These gradually increased the volume of mourvedre available for blending and, after ten years, contributed fruit to a second straight mourvedre, Baby Bush.

Hewitson believes we’ll see more straight mourvedre in the near future. He suspects recent sales of Baby Bush and Old Garden to fellow Barossa makers to be for benchmarking their own products.

We’ll have to wait and see. But even if more flow into the market, it’ll be a tiny volume. Mourvedre accounts for less than one per cent of Australia’s red plantings, and these vines produce only six to seven thousand tonnes of grapes a year.

Production may be small, but it’s a key variety, a great blender, sensational on its own on occasion and now, I’m told, the best grapes fetch very high prices. In the Barossa this means a small army of makers, many of them quite small, hunting down those very special, very old parcels.

Mourvedre will remain a niche variety. But it won’t remain anonymous. Watch for a review of Hewitson Old Garden in my Sunday Top Drops column.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2010

One of Canberra’s oldest vineyards is about to make a comeback under the Little Bridge Wines banner. In December last year Stephen Dowton, one of the Little Bridge partners, bought Brooks Creek Vineyard, at Bywong, from George Brownbill.

The 2.8-hectare vineyard includes a block of mourvedre, and possibly other survivors of the original 4-hectare vineyard planted there in 1973 by Max Blake, a research officer at the John Curtin School of Medical Research. In Wines of the Canberra District, Brian Johnston reports Blake had previously planted a trial block of 100 vines near Bungendore in 1968 — three years before Drs Riek and Kirk established vineyards at Lake George and Murrumbateman in 1971.

I recall tasting wines, including mourvedre, at the vineyard with Blake in the late eighties. At the time the vineyard was known as “Shingle House”.  Later it became “Brooks Creek” and ownership passed to the Brownbill family (probably in 1992, Dowton believes).

The partners intend restoring Brooks Creek vineyard to full production over the next three or four years. It’ll then be the third vineyard contributing fruit to the Little Bridge label. The other two are John Leyshon’s 2-hectare Mallaluka vineyard, at Dog Trap Road, Murrumbateman, and Roland Clark’s 2-hectare Folly Run vineyard at Butmaroo, southeast of Bungendore.

Roland Clark says he and the other three partners – Stephen Dowton, John Jeffrey and John Leyshon – kicked off the Little Bridge venture in 1996. “You could say we were a fishing group – a men’s drinking club that went wrong”. Fourteen years later, they continue to make major decisions over drinks – generally on an annual trip to the Clark family farm near Bega.

In fourteen years they’ve done everything from scratch – establishing vine rootlings, planting vineyards and making and selling wine – even designing the wine label. They grew the original cuttings at a farm, since sold by Stephen Dowton, on Dicks Creek Road, Murrumbateman. Cuttings from these later populated Clark’s Butmaroo vineyard.

Partner John Leyshon makes the red wines at his Mallaluka property Murrumbateman. But the Carpenters make the Little Bridge pinot noir at Lark Hill from grapes grown on Clark’s Folly Run vineyard – one of the highest in the district, at 860 metres above sea level. And the whites are made by Greg Gallagher and Rob Howell at Canberra Winemakers, a contract production facility located at Jeir Creek Wines, Murrumbateman.

The three Little Bridge vineyards, totalling about seven hectares, produce an unusually wide range of varieties for such a small holding – riesling, chardonnay, merlot, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, sangiovese and mourvedre; and a couple of hats full each of gamay, petit verdot and malbec.

Whether the partners maintain the diversity remains to be seen. But at least the minor varieties can be blended with others (for example, mourvedre with shiraz; or malbec with cabernet). As well, we can expect the varieties to perform differently at the three unique sites. Over time this may lead to specialisation, especially as the three vineyards feed into one brand.

But as greater volumes come on stream, Little Bridge will benefit by paying serious attention to wine quality. Very small makers hand selling wine might get away with making middle of the road wines. But to build a reputation and really prosper, mediocrity won’t do. The district’s reputation rests on the outstanding wines, led to date by shiraz and riesling.

The acquisition of Brooks Creek also gives Little Bridge a cellar door – the physical presence it needs to reach the public. The partners say they’re launching Little Bridge at Brooks Creek on mother’s day, Sunday 9 May, with wine, food and music from 12.30pm to 6.00pm.

Here’s a run down on the current Little Bridge offerings:

Little Bridge Canberra District Riesling 2008 $20
A bright, fresh riesling with ripe, citrus-like varietal aroma and flavour. It’s soft and easy drinking, but the flavours are a touch mature for a riesling this young. Drink up.

Little Bridge Canberra District Riesling 2009 $20
A vibrant, floral-scented riesling, quite intensely flavoured but delicate. A significant step up from the 2008

Little Bridge Canberra District Pinot Noir 2009 $26
Made at Lark Hill using fruit from the 860-metre Folly Run vineyard. To my taste it’s the best made of the Little Bridge reds. It smells and tastes of pinot, albeit at the leafier end of the spectrum, and has the texture, too.

Little Bridge Canberra District Sangiovese 2008 $15
Little Bridge Canberra District Shiraz 2008 $20
Little Bridge Canberra District Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 $20
I noted blemishes in these three reds that made them unpalatable to me.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2010

You don’t have to own vineyards or a winery to make your own wine. Ask Nick O’Leary, owner of one of Canberra’s hot new brands. You’ll find his wines on Canberra retail shelves and wine lists. But there’s no winery and no cellar door, just a web site (www.nickolearywines.com.au). And even that bears a ‘sold out’ sign.

Little wonder there’s no wine left, though, given the quality O’Leary achieved so quickly and the accolades that followed. These include rave reviews from Australia’s leading commentators, and an impressive string of awards at reputable wines shows – four gold medals for the current-release 2008 shiraz and a gold and two trophies for the 2009 riesling. Though sold out on O’Leary’s website, both can be found in stores and wine lists around town.

So what propels a newcomer so decisively into the limelight? The answer lies in careful fruit sourcing, attentive winemaking and sound judgement. Clearly, by the quality of his wines, O’Leary knew what varieties to use, where to source top-notch grapes and how to convert them to medal-winning wines. How come he knew all this at a tender 26 years?

Like his mentor and mate, Alex McKay, O’Leary worked at Kamberra Winery until late 2006 when Constellation Wines Australia (formerly BRL Hardy) sold up and made him redundant. But by then he’d served his winemaking apprenticeship under McKay, starting in 2003 as a cellar hand and working through the ranks to cellar supervisor then vintage assistant winemaker, running night shift for the whites.
O’Leary says he’d always wanted to be a winemaker and when Constellation left town he decided to stay on and build his own Canberra brand. By the end of 2006 a good grounding in winemaking made the decision natural. As well, he understood Canberra’s strengths and knew where to source good grapes.

He says, “Hardys gave me a good exposure to new technology and new techniques. I gained a good overview of wine and from where we were, we had a good ear to the ground”. And as well as making wine, O’Leary tasted widely and continues to do so. “I drink a lot with Alex and others who are not winemakers”, he says, finding inspiration in German riesling and “I love rieslings from the Clare and Eden Valleys”.

He and McKay assembled enough good shiraz from the 2006 vintage to blend and launch their own Nick O’Leary and Collector labels in 2007.
Then in vintage 2007, O’Leary bought about 10 tonnes of riesling and shiraz from growers he’d worked with during the Kamberra years, making the wine at Affleck Winery, owned by his in-laws, Ian and Susie Hendry.

The wines hit the mark immediately, largely attributable, says O’Leary, to the grape quality. He sources these principally from Wayne and Jennie Fischer’s Nanima Vineyard, Murrumbateman, but buys as well from Mike and Denise McKenzie’s Murrumbateman vineyard and from Wallaroo Vineyard, Hall.

These growers all understand the connection between fruit quality and wine quality, O’Leary explains. They’re prepared to do the hard work of shoot thinning and crop thinning – essential in getting crop levels just right, maximising flavour and balance. O’Leary works closely with his growers, “spending lots of time in the vineyard, especially just before harvest”, he says.

O’Leary and McKay maintained their connection after leaving Kamberra. In 2007 both joined the Karelas family at Lake George. They embarked on a major rejuvenation of the vineyard and made wine there in 2007, 2008 and 2009 – initially in Dr Edgar Riek’s original winery, then in the larger cellars next door after the Karelas family acquired David Madew’s property. The two left Lake George in late 2009.

But the Collector and Nick O’Leary labels live on. And they’re about to be joined by a joint brand to be launched in May or June. The initial wine, says O’Leary, is a 2009 vintage Canberra shiraz, likely to sell at a modest $18 a bottle. It’ll be joined later by chardonnay and pinot noir, both from the 2010 vintage. While these will be from Canberra, O’Leary anticipates sourcing future material from Tumbarumba as the cooler climate there better suits these varieties.

And what’s in store from Nick O’Leary wines in 2010? He says, “It was a challenging vintage. I haven’t seen one like this with rain towards the end of harvest”. But there’ll still be good wines from good producers, O’Leary says. In general whites came in ripe at lower sugar levels than usual and made sound, delicate wines. The reds “are not as robust as the 2009s, but they’re balanced. Whether they’ll live as long, I don’t know”.

We’ll see O’Leary’s 2010 riesling in a few months. And the 2009 shiraz should be a cracker when it’s released later this year. The riesling will sell at about $25 and the shiraz at $28.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2010