Category Archives: Wine

How Sue Hodder’s history lesson improved Wynns’ Coonawarra reds

The old adage that the only thing we learn from history is that we don’t learn anything from history is bunk. At Wynns Coonawarra Estate, a close study of historic wines taught Sue Hodder and her winemaking team plenty about Coonawarra wines.

A decade on from two retrospective Wynns shiraz and cabernet tastings — stretching back to the 1950s — Sue’s new-release reds demonstrate that the past can influence current winemaker thinking.

In the tastings – featuring Wynns’ shiraz back to vintage 1953 in 1997 and cabernet sauvignon back to 1954 in 2004 – some of the very old comparatively low-alcohol, low-tannin, low-oak wines surpassed more recent wines, and completely eclipsed those of the late seventies.

The tasting proved the great longevity of Coonawarra reds – like the 1955 Michael Hermitage (shiraz) and 1954 cabernet sauvignon. And it revealed several distinct style eras in the estate’s history.

In simple terms we might see the early fifties to the seventies as straightforward – pick the grapes not too ripe, crush, ferment, press to tank, let the malo-lactic fermentation rip, and then mature the wine in older oak for a while before bottling.

In the late seventies – and we might call this the bean-counter era – fruit ripeness and consequent wine flavour declined as vineyard yields rose. This was in part a company thing (the high yields) and, in part, historical, as several other makers sought to produce ‘elegant’ wines by harvesting unripe grapes. Older drinkers still view the word ‘elegant’ as euphemism for thin and green.

The economic imperative took a different shape in the eighties as minimal pruning and mechanical harvesting reduced costs without sacrificing ripeness. Minimal pruning, in particular, created problems of its own to be addressed more than a decade later.

Although the eighties was a period of growth and rising demand for premium reds, margins were often squeezed in a mainly domestically focused industry. In this period Coonawarra reds tended to become riper and more influenced by maturation in new oak – with mixed success as winemakers learned the ropes.

It was, overall for Coonawarra, a period of great quality improvement. And for Wynns, this included the introduction of a new flagship red in 1982, named after pioneer John Riddoch. Made by John Wade, John Riddoch 1982 is to my taste one of the greatest cabernets yet made in this country.

Meanwhile good old Wynns Black Label cabernet carried on, perhaps a tad riper and a little oakier than in the old days, but, as the retrospective tasting showed, always purely varietal and almost invariably with the stuffing to age for decades.

In the late eighties and nineties the flagship John Riddoch cabernet was always denser, more powerful and oaky than the cheaper Black Label, but not always more revered by consumers.

Similarly, a powerful reserve shiraz resurrected the ‘Michael’ name in 1990, there having been only one vintage – 1955 – in the past. This, too, showed intense fruit and assertive oak.

By the late nineties the Wynns cabernets in particular were showing silkier tannins, without losing varietal flavour and intensity – and Sue and the team had begun rethinking how things ought to be done.
The re-think led to a rejuvenation of the older vines, including the removal of dense clusters of dead wood – a result of twenty years’ minimal pruning.

Launching this year’s releases last week, Sue said that what the tasting of older wines had taught her was that Coonawarra reds don’t have to be big tannic monsters to age well. It was clear that elegant, refined styles, without any new oak, still delivered great drinking pleasure after half a century.

Sue said that she’d also learned that a bit of ‘pepper’ in Coonawarra shiraz was nothing to be afraid of. This simply recognises that Coonawarra is a cool growing region, that cool-grown shiraz has a peppery note and it loses this when over ripe.

During the vineyard renovation and re-thing of winemaking styles, Sue’s team stopped making John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon and Michael Shiraz altogether for a couple of vintages. Declining sales surely played a part in the decision, but it was a much need breathing space.

While the by-now older John Riddochs and Michaels were ageing well – and some are just glorious – Sue has now demonstrated in the new-release 2004s that the style could be bettered.

The new wines still have exceptional fruit intensity, but oak intrudes less and the true elegance that was apparent in many of the old wines in the retrospective tasting is apparent.

The glory of the old styles, it seems, gave Sue the confidence to make changes for the better.

The 2004 Michael Shiraz, in particular, shows the benefit of the softer touch and rejuvenated vineyards. This wine captures the fragrance, unique berry and pepper character and elegant structure that Coonawarra can deliver – as it did in the original Michael in 1955.

The changes are there but more subtle in recent vintages of the White label Shiraz and Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon and the re-introduced John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon.

Indeed, the estate that made Coonawarra famous is quietly, through quality and value, reasserting its status. See this website on July 16 for reviews of the new releases.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan

Lake George renaissance

Lake George’s two oldest wine estates – Lake George Vineyard and Madew Wines – seem to have fallen off the radar in recent years, leaving relative newcomer, Lerida Estate, to keep the flame burning.

But there’s a renaissance in the making. Madew is on the market. And Lake George owner, Theo Karelas, recently engaged former Kamberra winemaker, Alex McKay, to reinvigorate the vineyard and winemaking – with help from Dr Edgar Riek, the vineyard’s founder.

A revitalised Lake George Vineyard and Madews, operating alongside Lerida, could make this little strip the most-visited part of Canberra’s scattered wine scene. Being at a peaceful remove from the busy Federal Highway is no disadvantage – as the success of nearby Lynwood Café demonstrates.

This really is a very charming location. Search ‘Lake George, Australia’ on Google Earth for a bird’s-eye view of what travellers see when travelling by road between Canberra and Sydney. Heading north from Canberra, the Federal Highway climbs then traverses the Lake George Escarpment before plunging down to the lake at Geary’s Gap.

Continuing north along the western shore of the lake, the escarpment literally crumbles steeply downwards, occasionally spewing rock debris onto the road.

Approaching the northern end of the lake, the slope from the escarpment eases before opening out onto the plains around the village of Collector.

The Lerida, Lake George and Madew vineyards form a contiguous line along these comparatively gentle slopes of the Lake George escarpment and are accessed from the old Federal Highway, now a quiet backwater next to the freeway.

The vineyards lie between the escarpment to the west and Lake George to the east. For those not familiar with the area, ‘Lake’ might be seen as an ironic term. As locals know the lake, vast as it is, comes and goes over time.

After a run of wet seasons it laps the side of the road, mystifying new visitors with its fence posts jutting above the water. In prolonged dry spells, sheep graze the grassy landscape and visitors might glimpse a puddle in the far south towards Bungendore.

When Edgar Riek established Lake George Vineyard in 1971 the lake was there and filling. It has come and gone several time since. And it makes me wonder what influence the presence or absence of such a large body of water – or land – makes on the grape-growing environment along the foreshore. The changes must have an impact.

The Lake George vineyards share other unique grape-growing conditions, too: soil that includes both rubble from erosion of the escarpment as well as deep gravels from old shorelines; the late afternoon shade provided by the escarpment towering above; an elevation of around 700 metres above sea level; and considerable variation in ripening times over short distances – Jim Lumbers, for example, cites a three week gap within Lerida Estate’s 7.5 hectares.

Two years after Riek established ‘Cullarin’ – the original name of Lake George Vineyard – naval captain Geoff Hood planted Westering Vineyard immediately to the north. David and Romily Madew acquired Westering in 1994, expanding the vineyard and building a winery, restaurant (grapefoodwine), cellar door complex.

In 1997 Jim Lumbers and Anne Caine, inspired by Edgar Riek’s pinot noirs, established Lerida on Riek’s southern boundary.

About a year later, Edgar Riek, by now in his seventies and concerned about succession, sold Lake George Vineyard to the Karelas family but stayed on as consultant for the 1999 and 2000 vintages.

Throughout his time at Lake George Edgar had been deeply engaged with the wine industry – partly through the role he played in establishing the National Wine Show – and his wines, despite the tiny volumes, enjoyed a high profile. These faded from view after his departure.

David Madew, on the other hand, showed flair for publicity, establishing Madew’s opera amongst the vines and the ambitious grapefoodwine complex – an enduring piece of infrastructure for the Lake George area. What becomes of Madew under new ownership remains to be seen. But the foundation is there to build on.

As Lake George Winery faded and Madew focused on events, Jim Lumbers and Anne Caine invested heavily in Lerida Estate.

From 1997 they established 7.5 hectares of vines with a strong skew toward pinot noir. This remains their passion, but they also have in the vineyard pinot gris (a white mutant of pinot noir), chardonnay, shiraz, merlot, cabernet franc, shiraz and viognier.

After a fairly rustic start to winemaking – I recall tasting wine outdoors from barrels stored in a shipping container in the early days – they built a beautiful winery, cellar door, café complex designed by Glenn Murcutt.

They’ve been moving up the grape-growing, winemaking learning curve rapidly. And now with Malcolm Burdett and skilled French ‘stagiers’ assisting at each vintage, the wines show increasing polish.

Maturing vines, careful vine management, rigorous fruit selection and competent winemaking have all contributed to a major lift in quality for Lerida. The latest offerings at cellar door (overlooking the lake and within the café) represent real value, with high points for me being the 2005 Reserve Shiraz and 2006 Pinot Noir.

Jim has some wonderful 2007 reds maturing in barrel, including shiraz, merlot and pinot. Again my favourite was the shiraz – already showing strong cool-climate peppery varietal character plus mid-palate richness – followed by a very promising merlot.

This is a winery to watch. It seems well resourced and driven by Jim and Anne’s passion – shared by Malcolm Burdett. However, it’s a little early in the journey yet to say what Lerida’s greatest wines will be. It takes many decades to see what varieties work where, especially in a climate as variable as Canberra’s.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

Niche white that viognier

Viognier’s a niche variety and likely to stay that way. Why? Well, for one it has too much flavour and individuality.

How can a wine have too much flavour? Well, look, for example, at gewürztraminer. Its heady, lychee-like aroma and viscous texture might be unforgettable, and a joy to drink on occasion. But that’s the problem: a little goes a long way. It’s simply too much to drink regularly.

If viognier (a native of France’s Rhône valley) falls into that category it has, in Australia, the considerable advantage of being relatively unknown.

While gewürztraminer – of which there are some very fine examples, like Hanging Rock from Macedon, Victoria – suffers from its use in bland, sweet blends with riesling, viognier walked straight into the premium end of the market sans popular pre-conception.

Viognier’s short history in Australia, as outlined here a few weeks back, parallels its resurgence in France.

Winemaker interest in the variety seems to have begun in the late seventies. According to Yalumba, Heathcote winery, central Victoria, probably trialled viognier prior to Yalumba’s acquisition of cuttings from Montpellier, France, in 1979. Yalumba propagated these cuttings and planted 1.2 hectares on the Vaughan vineyard, Eden Valley, in 1980, and claims this as Australia’s first commercial planting.

This vineyard remains a source of Yalumba’s ‘The Virgilius’, its flagship viognier that inspired many of the outstanding wines to have emerged from eastern Australia in the past decade.

These come, broadly speaking, in two main styles: those that feature the unadorned, plump, viscous, opulent, apricot-like flavour of the variety; and those attempting to incorporate that flavour into a matrix with others derived from fermentation and maturation on yeast lees in oak barrels.

The latter, modelled on the best of Condrieu, a village in France’s Rhône Valley, can achieve a high level of complexity. But even with this high level of winemaker artifice, ultimate quality is driven by the quality of fruit – just as it is with oak fermented chardonnay.

The divergence of the two styles is reflected in price, too. The opulent, simple, fruity wines generally come from higher cropping vineyards and don’t bear the purchasing or winemaking costs of oak. Wines like Canberra’s Meeting Place, Stepping Stone Padthaway and Yalumba Eden Valley, for example, generally deliver the variety’s plush flavour and leave change out of $20.

But as you move up to the hand crafted versions (with the high costs of lower yields, hand-picking and sorting and oak fermentation) prices step up accordingly – to $45 a bottle and more.

Regardless of which style you go for, viognier delivers a unique spectrum of flavours, whether overtly or subtly. That’s what the winemaker quest is all about – capturing the varietal character and, at the same time, expressing regional, clonal and winemaker inputs.

A tasting of eight Aussie viogniers this week showed the common and divergent traits of the variety. I describe them very briefly below in the order in which they were tasted, along with my score out 20 points.

I use the Australian wine-show scoring system in which 12 points or lower is a faulty, unpleasant wine; 13-15 is sound but unexciting; 15.5-16.5 wins a bronze medal – meaning a faultless wine that fits the class description; 17-18 point wins a silver medal – meaning an exciting drop, but not quite in the first league; and 18.5 to 20 points wins a gold medal – these are outstanding wines.

Ravensworth Canberra District Viognier 2006 17.5 points
Another classy barrel-ferment viognier from Bryan Martin. Not far behind the best.

Tahbilk Nagambie Lakes Viognier 2006 15/20
A vibrant and pleasant wine with a strong, estery/passionfruit like aroma and flavour that was a little over the top for me – and not quite ‘viognier’ enough.

Grant Burge Chaff Mill Adelaide Hills Barossa Valley Viognier 2005 17 points
Shows considerable complexity from the barrel input, quite fresh and varietal. Very easy to savour a few glasses.

d’Arenberg The Last Ditch McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Viognier 2006 16 points
An outstanding example of the ‘let-it-rip’ varietal style – apricot-like, opulent and very fresh, but simply upstaged by the more complex company.

Fox-Gordon Barossa Valley Viognier 2006 15.5 points
From the southern Barossa, this one’s big, fat and juicy – definitely viognier but will probably fatten up quickly, so drink now.

Petaluma Adelaide Hills Viognier 2005 19.0
A simply stunning wine – seductively aromatic, tingly fresh, finely textured for viognier, yet unmistakably of that variety and with a lingering, delicious flavour.

Clonakilla Canberra District Viognier 2006 18.5 points
Not long bottled and very complex, soft and layered, with a wonderful texture. Only just pipped by the Petaluma in this tasting but it could be a different result after another six months in bottle.

Yarra Burn Yarra Valley Viognier 2004 16.0 points
This was surprisingly fresh and fine for viognier – as the variety normally fattens and fades quickly. The focus seemed to be more on texture and structure and less on overt varietal flavour, although it was definitely there.

Conclusion? Our best viogniers, like our best chardonnays, are whites to savour; the cheaper ones are more in-your-face, fade young and tend to heaviness. The flavours, however, are unique and pleasant. Be adventurous and try the best. But, like me, you might find that one or two bottles a year are enough.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

Big reds are OK, too

Australian winemakers seem to be copping bit of stick from some quarters for making inky, oaky, alcoholic shiraz – ‘caricatures’ some say, of wines that taste awful young and grow worse with age.

But let’s not confuse these over-ripe, over-oaked, sometimes artificially concentrated reds with our very powerful, balanced, warm-climate styles. Many of these are made to age gracefully for decades – and it takes a bit of stuffing to emerge in good nick after twenty or thirty years in the cellar.

And robust wines like this, by definition, don’t always have the drink-now appeal of the vast majority of wines made for early consumption. They’re usually balanced, but sheer concentration of fruit flavour and a high tannin load can be a little daunting.

The best of these, generally released after four or five years’ bottle age, still show a youthful crimson around the rim and a near opaque red/black centre, with solid fruit and tannin to match. At this stage they’re impressive, if a little raw.

Move on a decade or two and the colour tones down to a vibrant red, perhaps with a touch of brown and the aroma and flavour show wonderful, warm, aged characters along with the still-sweet fruit. And by now the tannins have softened and oak character merged into the single ‘winey’ flavour.

At many tastings and dinners over the years aged, robust Aussie reds have emerged beautifully after ten, twenty, thirty and even fifty years in the cellar.

At a single tasting a little over a year ago, Grange 1983, once so dense and tannic, led the following list of robust, mellowing and deeply fruity shirazes: Grange 1991, Jim Barry Clare Valley The Armagh 1990, Penfolds St Henri 1991, Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Stonewell 1991 and 1994, Orlando Lawson’s Padthaway 1992, Yalumba Octavius 1993, Henschke Hill of Grace Eden Valley 1994 and Tim Adams Clare Valley The Aberfeldy 1994.

We might call these warm climate shirazes the old guard – established and time proven, but now being joined by increasing numbers of supple, elegant cool-climate styles exemplified by Canberra’s Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier of Murrumbateman.

The successful spread of shiraz into cooler areas – notably the Canberra District and southern Victoria – doesn’t spell the end of the old styles. It just means greater diversity for drinkers and probably provides further impetus for warm climate producers to fine tune oak handling and other winemaking inputs – something that’s been ongoing anyway.

While the market demands mainly drink-now reds, the best of the new wave, like Clonakilla, possess the huge fruit intensity and structure for long-term ageing. But they also have the seductive perfume, subtle oak and soft structure to appeal now – virtues that the warm climate long-cellaring reds seldom reveal.

That’s partly because different climates will, thankfully, produce different wine styles from the same grape variety. A Barossa grower cannot emulate a Canberra style and vice versa.

This diversity is important for drinkers and healthy for the wine industry. What we have to hope for is that the current trend for critics to promote elegance and refinement and slam robustness doesn’t turn the heads of winemakers away from proven regional styles.

The danger for drinkers when new enthusiasms emerge is that enthusiasm can be contagious, sometimes for no good reason. I’ve tasted many talked-up, ‘elegant’ cool climate shirazes to be simply feeble, and unripe at that. And that hurts when you’ve paid $25 or $30 a bottle.

I find, too, that’s there’s not a lot of joy in many me-too shiraz-viognier blends. The best, like Clonakilla, are wonderful. But some seem to be going through the motions. What you get, all too often, is shiraz that tastes more like syrup than wine – a far cry from the seductive fragrance and silky texture achieved with that blend by Clonakilla and a few others.

For sure, let’s curb the excesses of oak, alcohol and tannin. But when it comes to our top end, warm climate reds with proven long term cellaring ability, let’s not cave in to whim or fashion. Twenty-year reds need power and structure. Informed drinkers know that and don’t want to see them focus grouped into feebleness.

Quite apart from the long-lived, more robust styles, there’s a generosity and lovableness to the earlier-drinking shirazes from warm areas like the Barossa, Clare and McLaren Vale. Indeed, Australia’s export success to the USA rides on these delicious styles. And, in truth, that’s where most domestic emphasis lies, too.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

Coonawarra — almost a sheep paddock

Coonawarra reds fetch a premium today. But behind their reputation lies a twisting, sometimes profitless and often frustrating struggle that stretches back to the 1890s. Indeed, had it not been for the foresight of Samuel and David Wynn in 1951, our most famous cabernet region might be a sheep paddock today.

The ‘estate that made Coonawarra famous’ remained largely unknown, under various guises, for sixty years before the inspired marketing of the Wynns gave an identity and, ultimately, fame, to the area’s unique, elegant table wines – building on a potential that had been recognised half a century earlier.

In 1899, W. Catton Grasby, editor of ‘Garden and Field’ wrote ‘As long as grapes mature properly, the more gradual the process the better, so that the conditions are as favourable, if not more so, at Coonawarra than anywhere else in Australia for making very high-class, light, dry wine. The results are bearing out the theoretical statement of what should be, and Coonawarra claret promises to have a very high and wide reputation—indeed, there is no doubt but that it will be a beautiful wine of good body, fine colour, delicate bouquet, and low alcoholic strength”.

Grasby’s words followed a visit to John Riddoch’s Coonawarra fruit colony and, presumably, a tasting of the first few vintages made in Riddoch’s imposing, triple-gabled, Coonawarra Wine Cellars – the icon that still appears on Wynns labels today.

Grasby notes the first vine plantings in 1891 and an expansion of the area under vine by 1899 to about 140 hectares — 89 owned by ‘blockers’ on the fruit colony and 51 hectares belonging to Riddoch — consisting principally of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon with smaller plantings of malbec and pinot noir, the latter not faring well.

According to James Halliday (‘Wine Compendium’ 1985), production from these vineyards exceeded 300 thousand litres per annum from 1903 until 1909 with John Riddoch actively seeking markets for the wine in Australia and in Great Britain.

However, after Riddoch’s death at about this time, Coonawarra’s famous estate turned to distilling its ever-accumulating wine stocks — a practice that continued through two changes of ownership until Woodleys purchased the triple-gabled winery and 58 hectares of vineyards in 1946.

Woodley’s owner, Tony Nelson, installed as winemakers, at what was now ‘Chateau Comaum’, Bill and Owen Redman – from whom he’d been buying Coonawarra wine for many years. Although the arrangement fell over a few years later, at least, after a break of 37 years, Coonawarra’s original winery was once again making table wine.

In 1951 Samuel Wynn and his son David bought the vineyards and Chateau Comaum, renamed it Wynns Coonawarra Estate, and installed 22-year-old Roseworthy graduate Ian Hickinbotham as manager. The Estate was set to make Coonawarra famous.

During a tasting of fifty years of Wynns cabernets a few years back, Ian recalled ‘the stink of failure’ that hung over the area’s tiny wine industry when he arrived in late 1951. And he recalled the disdain felt for it by a remote community riding the Korean war wool boom.

As the first qualified winemaker to arrive in Coonawarra since John Riddoch had hired Ewen Ferguson McBain in 1898, Ian confronted the challenges of isolation, labour shortages and the most rudimentary winemaking equipment. Roads and transport were poor, there was no electricity and the winery still relied on steam power to drive its pumps.

In that first year Ian brought to Coonawarra six Roseworthy students to help with the pruning. They ‘batched’ with him in a little shack near the winery.

A gifted Aussie rules player, Ian then called on 70 mates from the local footy club for the heavy work of pulling the cuttings from the vineyards.

During vintage, David Wynn fixed the labour problem by bringing in a group of Italian immigrants. A mixed lot – professionals, craftsmen, workers and even a chef – they proved themselves cheerful and skilled as grape pickers and cellar hands.

As soon as the manual press began turning, they bust into song’ Ian recalls. And that set the tone for the 1952 vintage.

Although the Wynns sold most of the 1952 vintage in bulk, it also marked the birth of the famous label depicting John Riddoch’s triple-gabled, limestone winery.

Indeed, Wynns labels were two generations ahead of their time and might teach today’s brand managers a lesson. They were boldly branded, declaring region of origin, wine style and vintage on the front label, and emphasises the region with a clear map on the back label. They spoke the international language of great wine.

Samuel and David put their judgement on the line in choosing little known, isolated Coonawarra back in 1951. That they were on the money shows in the string of superb, long-lived wines created from 1952 on.

It’s a fascinating story that’s remained intact for half a century, despite several ownership changes. And what the Wynns established still instructs winemaker Sue Hodder today – in turn, delivering benefits to drinkers.

Watch this space in early July and learn how Sue and her team boosted quality by peering into old Wynns wines for clues.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

A new seal for Penfolds Grange

When will Australia’s most prestigious wine, Penfolds Grange, adopt the screw cap? It won’t, winemaker Peter Gago told me in Adelaide a few weeks ago. So are we doomed to throwing away the odd, corked $500 bottle forever? Not at all, says Peter.

But we’ll have to wait a little while for his solution. It’s radical and, arguably, made possible by screw cap’s commercial and technical success over the past decade.

The screw cap’s ready adoption broke the cork monopoly. In turn — albeit reluctantly and slowly — sections of the cork industry addressed the systemic, destructive problems of oxidation and cork-taint.

But the by the time Diam (a highly-effective, high-tech composite cork) arrived, masses of drinkers had abandoned the corkscrew forever and other innovative seals had arrived.

In Australia, for example, an Adelaide company developed and released the plastic, pull out Zork plug, while in Worms, Germany, Alcoa commenced manufacture of the elegant, glass Vino-Lok.

In developing the Vino-Lok, Alcoa surely looked to challenge rival aluminium giant, Alcan, owner, through its French subsidiary, Pechiney, of Stelvin, the original screw cap for wine.

And Stelvin is where the screw-cap revolution began. It fizzed for a while in the sixties and seventies, then faltered and faded in the eighties. But it simmered in winemakers’ minds before re-emerging in the late nineties.

The re-emergence in Australia rested on two forces – winemaker dissatisfaction with cork and the marvelous maturity, freshness and consistency of whites, mainly rieslings, that had survived from the short Stelvin boom of the sixties and seventies.

That white wine would not only keep but also mature well under screw cap for decades was proven. And winemakers both here and in New Zealand were aware of trials with reds in France a generation earlier.

Several Australian wineries – including Penfolds and Henschke — began testing the cellarability of reds under screw caps and other seals during the nineties.

Peter Gago says that Penfolds trials included Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 1996 and Bin 2 Mourvedre 1995. The results were – and continue to be — encouraging. What the trials show conclusively is that a top-notch red like Bin 389 matures exactly as you’d expect it to under a good cork – but without the loss caused by cork taint or oxidation.

It also shows that the seal survives intact for a decade.

A decade on from those trials, many of the top-end Penfolds reds have screw caps – including the recently released $150-a-bottle RWT Barossa Shiraz 2004. But as I’ve wondered before why, with the knowledge and confidence they had, did Penfolds not seize the leadership with screw caps? Instead they seemed to have opted for an equivocal, piecemeal rollout that hardly inspires confidence.

So, if screw cap is better for the other Penfolds reds, why not for Grange?

Well, says Peter Gago, ‘With Grange we’re talking about people cellaring it for thirty to fifty years. We’ve had trials for ten years, but we’ve got our fingers crossed that these wines will still be good in four or five decades. It’s the integrity of the seal, not ageing that’s of concern’.

He explains that while we know that screw cap seals keep white wines perfectly for thirty years, the chemistry of red wine is different and we simply don’t know for certain that the seal will last.

He recalls working with well-known sparkling-wine maker, Ed Carr, at the company’s Nuriootpa sparkling cellars. They observed that crown seals on sparkling red wines often deteriorated where those for sparkling whites didn’t.

Whether or not modern screw caps with their tin coated sealing wads will deteriorate in contact with red wine for fifty years is simply not known. We do know that some corks make the distance and some don’t.

We also know that top Bordeaux Chateau re-cork their museum stock every couple of decades. And Penfolds itself offers free re-corking clinics for customers with reds over fifteen years of age.

So, it might be argued that if screw cap is better than cork for the medium term, why not make the change and offer re-capping clinics? There’d probably be a lot less Grange lost than there is under cork.
But Gago believes the solution for Grange has to better than that, and that ‘it’s an engineering thing, and will be worth the wait’.

And we shouldn’t have to wait too many years for the Gago solution: glass-to-glass. He cites examples of industries containing gas with glass or ceramic valves.

Glass to glass, he says, is the ideal seal as there’s nothing to corrode – no perishable material like cork, the tin-coated wad in screw caps or the silicon ring of Vino-Lok.

He says the company engaged an engineer to develop the idea and already has a prototype – a glass disc held in place with a spring-loaded clamp. Once perfected, says Peter, it can be deployed rapidly.
As long as the mechanism creates the perfect seal – and that can be readily tested – wine maturation trials won’t be necessary. ‘We don’t need any air getting in. There’s enough in there’, says Peter, pointing to the neck of the 2002 Grange.

What’s in all this for the drinker? Well, better seals mean better wine. Winemakers and packaging engineers are at last closing what has been the weakest link in the quality control chain. Bring on the innovations, I say, and throw away the corkscrew.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

The Penfolds succession (and why you should buy at auction, not retail)

Of the notable genius displayed in Australia’s long winemaking history – from Ray Beckwith’s profound scientific insights to the crafting of sublime, long-lived reds by legends like Maurice O’Shea, Colin Preece and Jack Kilgour – the achievements of Grange creator, Max Schubert, soar.

What Max put in place — that O’Shea, Preece, Kilgour and others did not — was a powerful succession structure that guaranteed continuity of the wines he created.

Max became production manager at Penfolds Magill cellars in 1948, made the first Grange in 1951 and ‘retired’ in 1973. But until his death in 1994 he maintained an office at Magill and remained a mentor to Don Ditter and John Duval — his successors from 1973 and 1986 respectively.

Don had worked alongside Max from 1950 until his retirement in 1986. And John Duval worked closely with both Ditter and Schubert prior to taking the reins from Don.

Fortunately the winemaking culture survived the abrupt departure of Duval in 2002 – a consequence of the disastrous Rosemount takeover – with the appointment of Peter Gago, Duval’s experienced offsider, as leader of a well-seasoned winemaking team.

This continuity over a period of more than fifty years means that the Penfolds reds we drink today still bear the Schubert thumbprint of powerful fruit flavours, robust structure and age-worthiness.

The Australian winemaking scene today is unrecognisable from the fortified-driven era in which Max learned his skills. But even among the amazing diversity now available — and amid increasing cries for elegance — Penfolds sturdy reds just about always deliver, especially after a few years’ bottle age.

The Granges, Bin 389s, Bin 28s and so on that we enjoy today, are in many ways different from the ones that Max made. Fruit sourcing has changed over the years as Australian vineyards expanded – especially during the explosive nineties.

And several new labels have appeared, partly as a response to increasing fruit diversity, partly in response to perceived demand and partly through winemaker innovation.

But the deeply layered, complex style is still perceivably Max’s – even in the more elegant styles like Magill Estate Shiraz (for which he hand wrote the first specification in August 1982, nineteen years after retiring), RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz and Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz. In each case fruit sourcing ensures elegant flavour and structure, but not at the expense of depth and complexity.

For all of these reasons, the annual release of the Penfolds blue chips presents an opportunity to buy some of Australia’s greatest wines in mint condition.

Those buying as an investment, however, are likely to be disappointed. If you don’t believe this, go to langtons.com.au and compare auction prices for older vintages against retail prices for current vintages. You may be surprised.

Older vintages generally sell at a substantial discount to the new release. This alone might discourage prospective investors. And for drinkers it means that if you want to enjoy Grange in its golden age – 15 to 20 years in my experience – auction is the place to go.

For example, as collectors forked out around $500 a bottle for the new and superb 2002 recently, auction goers collected the equally venerable 1996 and 1991 for just $427 and $405 respectively, or so-called ‘lesser’ vintages like 1989 for $349, 1992 for $279 or 1994 for $266. These prices include the fifteen per cent buyer’s premium and GST paid to the auctioneer.

Auction prices suggest that if you bought Grange at retail price before its mid-nineties internationalisation, you may have been on the money as an investor in the mid and late nineties – but would have seen little, none or negative movement in real terms since.

Langton’s records show a clear pattern of higher prices for the big-reputation vintages. The legendary 1990, for instance, recently sold at a nett $719, more than double the $319 fetched by the 1989 vintage. And 1986, another great vintage, fetched $577 while the 1985 attracted just $254.

What this suggests to me is that if you buy the best vintages as an investment, you may lose less money than if you buy the lesser ones. Or, from a more positive, drinking pleasure perspective, let someone else do the investing and cellaring, then buy up the mature gems at auction.

An important caveat is to check the provenance of wine with the auctioneer prior to bidding. Good cellaring is everything.

From a wine-quality perspective, the recent Penfolds premium releases, including Grange 2002, are exciting by any measure. I recently tasted these with winemaker Peter Gago and even discussed the likely end of cork as a seal for Australia’s flagship red. The Gago solution is unique. Read about it here next week.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

Will Foster’s stay in the wine business

The quality and style of several great Australian wine brands owned by Foster’s remain intact despite the wine division’s ten per cent sales decline in the first half 2006–07. But will great brands like Penfolds, Wynns and Wolf Blass flourish long term under the Foster’s banner? Will Foster’s remain in the wine business in the long term?

I wonder if, in relaxed moments on the golf course, Foster’s boss, Trevor O’Hoy laments the brewer’s venture into wine. A ten per cent slide in wine sales in the first half of 2006–07 says clearly that integrating a brewer and a winemaker is hard slog — and the analysts are onto it.

One major stockbroker, Merrill Lynch, cited by Richard Farmer on glug.com.au, writes, ‘We have argued in this note that we are non believers in the Australian multi beverage model, that we are non believers that a large company with a portfolio containing non-performing brands can ever out perform the market, and that we are non believers that a large wine company can grow brands without hurting other brands within its portfolio. We also believe Foster’s integration is too complex – and that snags will be a regular feature. In essence, we believe Foster’s operating under its current structure will continue to disappoint. And it is for this fundamental reason that we maintain our SELL recommendation’.

While Foster’s battles to overcome these management, financial, marketing and trading difficulties, the winemaking end of the business has, to date, kept some of our great brands intact. We can still trust and enjoy them. And that means that they still have the intrinsic quality to drive domestic sales and the export push.

Behind names like Penfolds, Saltram, Metala, Wynns, Mildara, Seppelt and Leo Buring lie specific regions, vineyards and decades of winemaking practice. These are the elements that create distinct wine flavours and, in turn, make the brands what they are.

But what happens when disparate winemaking cultures come together in one winery? When you blend Beringer Blass with Southcorp and all the brands associated with each, as Foster’s have done, do you get homogeneity immediately — or over time?

A tasting of the wines shows that it hasn’t happened yet. And a look at the winemaking structure, with chief winemaker Chris Hatcher, shows how this can be maintained for the present. The real challenge could come later, though, if financial underperformance forces more rationalisation.

Each of the brands has a long-term winemaker in charge, for example Sue Hodder for Wynns Coonawarra; Andrew Hales for Mildara Coonawarra; Caroline Dunn for Wolf Blass – Barossa, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills; Nigel Dolan for Saltram Barossa and Metala Langhorne Creek; Peter Gago for Penfolds reds – multi-regional; Ian Shepherd for Penfolds whites – Eden and Clare Valleys, Adelaide Hills, Henty, Tumbarumba; Emma Woods for Seppelt Great Western and surrounds; Wendy Stuckey for Annie’s Lane Clare Valley.

That’s only part of the list. But each winemaker has designated vineyards, or sections of vineyards, both company owned and contract grower. Grading for each wine style begins in the vineyard, continues at the crusher during vintage and afterwards in fermenter, storage tank and barrel.

Continuing assessment of grapes and individual wine batches means that quality grading from A (eg Penfolds Grange, Wolf Blass Black Label) to F (wine cask) can be altered as the season and, later, maturation progresses. Thus wines may be upgraded, downgraded or even re-allocated on the basis of style. Maintaining discrete batches right up until the point of final blending facilitates this.

Hence, when you taste a Wynns Coonawarra next to a Mildara Coonawarra, the styles are notably different. And this comes from different approaches in the vineyards, different vineyards within one region, harvest decisions and winemaking approach. Similarly Nigel Dolan’s reds taste different from those made by Caroline Dunn in the same winery.

Indeed tasting tank samples of 2007 rieslings tasted with Hatcher’s winemakers in the Barossa recently showed very marked variations amongst those destined for the Annie’s Lane, Leo Buring and Wolf Blass brands – and even between different quality levels for each.

From a consumer viewpoint these major Foster’s brands offer great value. And the best are exciting, world-class wines. Hatcher says that the focus both here and overseas will be increasingly on regionality and that this will continue to be driven by the winemakers.

Unfortunately, some of these great brands appear to be in decline commercially, if not in quality. We can only hope that Foster’s marketing and trading arms might fall into step with the winemakers so that these great products continue.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

Australia 2007 — a vintage to end the surplus, or vintage from hell?

The 2007 vintage ends a difficult season for wine makers in which drought, frost and bushfire trimmed the national grape harvest by hundreds of thousands of tonnes. But the small vintage, harsh as it will be financially on many winemakers and grape growers, appears to have brought a profit-sapping surplus to an end.

Visiting Canberra recently, Barossa vigneron Grant Burge called 2007 ‘the vintage from hell’. He said he’d ‘never seen anything like it. Reds are down in volume by seventy per cent and whites by thirty five per cent’.

From Nagambie Lakes in Victoria’s Goulburn Valley, Tahbilk’s Alister Purbrick writes, ‘I wrote to you last October with a good news/bad news letter in regard to the effect of the frost on our and other Victorian vineyards. I predicted a crop loss of 50% – the bad news is that it is more like 70-75%.

The good news – the Australian wine industry will be down around one million tonnes (720 million litres) which will not only use up all 2005/2006 bulk wine excesses held in tank (450million litres) but will leave the industry in a grape shortfall situation ongoing, which will hopefully lead to a more stable marketplace, less discounting and some restoration of margin and profitability to winemakers’.

In his newsletter Tappenings, vigneron Brian Croser goes straight to the cause of the harsh seasons, ‘El Nino, the cyclic weather phenomenon of the Pacific Ocean and not global warming, was responsible for the “drought of the century”, a predictable by-product of which was the clear sky, dry soil, radiation frosts that ravaged a good proportion of Australia’s fine wine vineyards. The likelihood that Australia’s 2007 vintage is 1.3 million tonnes, only 65% of the exaggerated average of the past three vintages is good and bad news; bad news for the frosted victims, good news for the balance of supply to match the demand for Australian wine’.

While Croser, like Purbrick, sees an opportunity for the industry to return to financial health, he adds an important caveat for vignerons, “The intrigue of scarcity will again increase the respect for quality among fine wine consumers who will be willing to pay more and this time around the vignerons should respond by reinvesting in quality rather than quantity’.

The Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation’s April estimate of the vintage size (based on a survey of company’s responsible for about 85 per cent of Australia’s grape crush) puts the harvest at 1.34 million tonnes, 560 thousand tonnes less than in 2006 and the lowest since 2000.

The AWBC estimates that the white crush fell by 17 per cent to 702 thousand tonnes and the red crush by 39 per cent to 639 thousand tonnes. Their report also notes 2007 as the lowest yielding vintage – in tonnes of grapes per hectare of vines – since 1976, attributable to drought, frost and bush-fire taint.

And the low yields are likely to continue in 2008 because of ‘poor development of the primordial buds (next year’s fruiting buds that sit behind those that flower and bear fruit this year) …together with expectations of reduced amounts of water available for irrigation in the warm inland districts…’

Press releases from various Australian regions tend put the best spin they can on a tough vintage. But none has the poignancy of this note from De Bortoli about Victoria’s King Valley, ‘Disaster. Frost, drought and no water from the King River to irrigate, decimated the region. The bush fires imparted a smoke taint on the small crops that were salvaged, making the fruit virtually unusable. We look forward to a normal season in 2008’.

And what about quality? Well, as in any vintage, big or small, generalisations are not helpful. In the Yarra, for example, vineyards on the valley floor copped a hammering from spring frosts, while many on elevated sites produced reasonable volumes and good quality.

In the Barossa last week on what was admittedly a very short visit, winemakers tended to favour whites over reds – and I tasted some convincing Eden Valley and Clare rieslings. But the reds are mostly in the ugly malo-lactic fermentation stage, making it hard to gauge quality.

Those who’ve seen it all before reckon there are some great parcels out there, albeit in small volume. For example, former Grange maker, John Duval, says “Although the quantity is down overall, I’m really very pleased with the shiraz, grenache and mataro from this vintage.”

The sudden shift from surplus to shortage, though, has already firmed up bulk wine prices and is quickly slurping up the hangovers from 2005 and 2006. While competitive forces will almost certainly mitigate retail price rises, they’ll begin to hit before too long, starting with white wines.

But when the red increases begin, as they must, the sheer scale of shortage in the 2007 vintage suggests heftier price rises in store than for whites.

Perhaps the first to be hit by the shortage will be the burgeoning clean skin trade. It’s been around for many decades, of course, and rises and falls with supply. But several years of dramatic oversupply have probably given it a false sense of permanence.

The message for drinkers? Don’t panic. Australia’s not running out of wine. But as prices are likely to firm — and stay firm for the next few years — it might pay to grab an extra case of red here and there when the quality/price ratio is right. And if the going gets too tough, imports will fill the gap.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007

Driving the Ferraris of the wine world

Few people drive the cars that win motor races. Yet motor sports contribute considerably to safety and performance developments in motor vehicles – improvements that finally trickle down to the family sedan.

Similarly, relatively few drinkers enjoy the Ferraris of the wine world – the great and enduring names that excite drinkers, inspire winemakers and lead, ultimately, to the production of better everyday drinking as surely as motor racing leads to better family cars.

Happily, the vehicle/vine metaphor doesn’t stretch to money: while the prices of top notch cars are unattainable to most at hundreds of thousands of dollars, the world’s greatest wines remain relatively accessible at hundreds of dollars a bottle.

Serious wine buffs, winemakers and wine judges – not necessarily wealthy people — can and do test-drive the world’s most venerable bottles, often spreading the expense over a group of tasters.

The practice is particularly widespread in Australia’s winemaking community and even more marked amongst Australia’s leading wine show judges.

While this may appear at odds with our parochial wine taste (Australia’s imports represent only a few per cent of total wine consumption), it’s probably one of the key forces driving improvements in wine quality.

It’s all about benchmarking. And to benchmark in a global market, winemakers need the broadest possible frame of reference plus an unbiased appreciation of the best the world can offer.

Take chardonnay for example. If a winemaker seeks to be amongst the best, benchmark tastings must include leading examples from Australia, New Zealand and the United States as well as a bottle or two from one of the great Domaines of Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne in France’s Burgundy region.

This doesn’t imply any fawning reverence for names — just a genuine, open-minded examination of what the world has to offer. Our best winemakers and judges do this and readily acknowledge road-to-Damascus experiences provided by the best wines of, for example, Domaine Leflaive of Puligny-Montrachet or Domaine Bonneau-du-Martray of Corton-Charlemagne.

These are the Ferraris of the chardonnay world, bound to impress anyone with more than a passing interest in wine. And the price? Perhaps $200 to $400 a bottle. That’s not much really, especially if half a dozen people chip in for the pleasure.

The late Len Evans was the greatest proponent of the ‘Ferrari principle’, having propelled two generations of Australian wine judges to an appreciation of the world’s best – as a prerequisite to competent judging. How can you judge, Len insisted, if you didn’t know the outer limits of quality?

Over lunches, dinners, tastings and at gatherings after a day’s judging, Len, as show chairman, insisted on great bottles, served masked and discussed openly. Talented insiders enjoyed an even more intense tutelage under Len, gaining comprehensive exposure to benchmark wines, especially those of France, Germany and Portugal.

Even after his death, Len continues mentoring via the annual ‘Len Evans Tutorial’ – a structured week long, live-in series of tastings and tutorials for promising youngish palates, conducted by Len’s leading acolytes. The course, through exposure to the word’s great wines, seeks to put wine excellence in a global context.

But there’s life beyond Len as well. While he provided inspiration and leadership, dozens of other influential winemakers and show judges explore the world of wine – sometimes on their own tasting benches, but also in the open forum that continues to follow judges around the wine show circuit.

Mixed in with the ‘Ferraris’ tasted after hours by show judges is a generous blend of rare old Australian wines, regional specialties from around the world and an eclectic mix of anything anyone regards as interesting. So a day’s judging of Australian wine invariably ends with more tasting and lively discussion in the evening.

This restless examination of what the world and we are up to, reverberates through Australian wineries inspiring innovation in as many directions as there are styles of wine.

What the ‘Ferrari’ wines do is provide inspiration for those aiming for the top. While the French wonder how they can possibly exceed the quality of 1985 Chateaux Margaux, 1978 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Le Montrachet, 1985 Krug Champagne or 1967 Chateau d’Yquem, our winemakers know that our quality limits have yet to be approached. We know we can do better.

From a consumer viewpoint, wine drinking becomes more interesting as we expand our frame of reference, experimenting with previously unknown flavours from France, Spain, Italy and Portugal. And, even if only occasionally, to share one of the acknowledged benchmark greats, provides enormous drinking satisfaction as well as blowing the possibilities even more wide open.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2007