Shelmerdine Heathcote Viognier 2010 $23–$26 Viognier, a white variety noted for its cameo role in some northern Rhone Valley reds, and the sometimes glorious whites of Condrieu, enjoys several identities in Australia, too. As a straight white wine it ranges from big, fat and alcoholic with a distinctive apricot-like flavour, to more restrained, slow-evolving versions … Continue reading Wine review — Shelmerdine, Campbells and Houghton
Visiting Canberra two weeks back, Barossa vigneron Grant Burge rated 2010 his “best white vintage in 10 years”. Then came the highs and lows of a wet 2011 season, “throwing up all the diseases in one year”, devastating crops in many vineyards, and driving up spraying and vineyard costs across the board. In his own … Continue reading Show judges too cool-climate orientated says Grant Burge
Pepper Tree Limited Release Chardonnay 2010 $22 Wrattonbully, South Australia Yes, this is the third Jim Chatto-made chardonnay reviewed here in as many weeks – expressing yet another facet of the variety. First we saw the thrilling acid spine and intense nectarine-like flavour of Orange chardonnay; then the generous, round, softness and delicacy of the … Continue reading Wine review — Pepper Tree, Grant Burge, Vasse Felix, Chrismont and Rutherglen Estate
At Chateau Shanahan we’ve experienced cellaring joy and disappointments over the years. But consistent pleasure in older bottles of Majella Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon and The Malleea cabernet shiraz, reminded us of this marvellous winery’s interesting transition from farming to grape growing to winemaking. When brothers Brian and Anthony Lynn made the first Majella wine in … Continue reading Majella of Coonawarra — from sheep farming to winemaking
Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Classic Riesling 2010 $9–$12 Eden Valley Riesling 2010 $13.49–$18 We’re not sure what “classic” means any more, certainly it gives no clue about what lies inside the Lehmann “classic” bottle. Pour it in the glass, though, and we have delicious, soft, delicate low-alcohol riesling with a pleasing, moderate sweetness, balanced by … Continue reading Wine review — Peter Lehmann and Rosemount
In 1967 Wolf Blass winemaker, John Glaetzer, received a load of “beautiful, concentrated” cabernet sauvignon from Bill Potts’ vineyard, Langhorne Creek. Glaetzer turned those grapes into the first Wolf Blass Grey Label Cabernet Sauvignon. Seven years later, inspired by those beautiful grapes, Glaetzer (still working for Blass) made John’s Blend No. 1 Langhorne Creek Cabernet … Continue reading Tasting John’s Blend 1990 to 2006
John Duval Plexus Barossa Valley Marsanne Roussanne Viognier 2010 $30 Barossa vignerons face a challenge making whites to compete with popular varieties, like sauvignon blanc and chardonnay from much cooler regions. The Barossa succeeds on a limited scale with semillon, and the slightly cooler Eden Valley, to the east, makes wonderful riesling. Rather than trying … Continue reading Wine review – John Duval and Yellowtail
Lark Hill Chardonnay 2008 $35 Lake George Escarpment, Canberra District, New South Wales If Lark Hill makes chardonnay this good in a warm year, then we’ve much to look forward to in the 2011, now bubbling away in barrels at the winery. At three years the 2008 seems barely to have begun life, it’s so … Continue reading Wine review — Lark Hill, Red Knot by Shingleback, John Duval and Pewsey Vale
Brindabella Hills Shiraz 2009 $30 Hall, Canberra District, Australian Capital Territory Can wine resemble its maker? It’s a far-fetched notion, perhaps. But Brindabella Hills shiraz shares a gentle understatement with its creator, Roger Harris. And the wonderful 2009 vintage seems even gentler and more understated than usual. The aroma’s sweet, fragrant and floral with a … Continue reading Wine review — Brindabella Hills, Simmonet-Febvre, Greywacke, Henschke, Bremerton and Alkoomi
Nothing de-romanticises wine like TV footage of white-clad show judges spitting perfectly good wine into buckets. It just seems so far removed from the simple enjoyment of wine with food. Certainly wine judging holds little appeal for spectators. But for judges it opens the door ever wider on the vast world of wine. And, from … Continue reading Blind tasting sharpens the senses