Big reds are OK, too

Australian winemakers seem to be copping bit of stick from some quarters for making inky, oaky, alcoholic shiraz – ‘caricatures’ some say, of wines that taste awful young and grow worse with age. But let’s not confuse these over-ripe, over-oaked, sometimes artificially concentrated reds with our very powerful, balanced, warm-climate styles. Many of these are … Continue reading Big reds are OK, too

Champagne, nature’s accident, and its Aussie emulators

Real Champagne, from the region of that name in northern France, provides the model for Australia’s rapidly evolving premium sparkling wines. It’s a century since we first copied Champagne-making techniques. But it’s only in the last few decades that we got to the heart of the matter in seeking the right grapes. In the first … Continue reading Champagne, nature’s accident, and its Aussie emulators

Petaluma’s Brian Croser joins Bollinger, Lynch-Bages in Tapanappa venture downunder

In 2001 brewer Lion Nathan acquired Petaluma, the upmarket wine company founded by Brian Croser in 1976. In January 2003, Croser — in partnership with, Jean-Michel Cazes of Château Lynch-Bages, Bordeaux, and Société Jacques Bollinger, the parent company of Champagne Bollinger — purchased the Koppamurra vineyard at Wrattonbully, near Coonawarra. The partnership — Tapanappa Wines … Continue reading Petaluma’s Brian Croser joins Bollinger, Lynch-Bages in Tapanappa venture downunder

Wine review — Shelmerdine, Rolling & Redden Bridge

Shelmerdine Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2004  $24-$26 This was the Chateau Shanahan preferred wine of three mid-$20’s 2004 Yarra Valley pinots tasted recently. St Huberts 2004, while pleasant, captured little of pinot’s magic; Giant Steps 2004 presented the dark-berry fruit, power and gaminess of the variety – a very, very good wine on a quality … Continue reading Wine review — Shelmerdine, Rolling & Redden Bridge

Wine review — Jacob’s Creek, Cloudy Bay & Brookland Valley

Jacob’s Creek Johann 1999 $100, St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet 2002 $40, Centenary Hill Barossa Shiraz 1997 $40, Steingarten Barossa Ranges Riesling 2002 $30, Reeve’s Point Padthaway Chardonnay 2002 $30 Meet the posh members of the Jacob’s Creek family: Johann, an extraordinarily rich, elegant Barossa Shiraz, Coonawarra Cabernet blend for long cellaring; Centenary Hill, a powerful, … Continue reading Wine review — Jacob’s Creek, Cloudy Bay & Brookland Valley