Wine, Terroir and Climate Change John Gladstones, Wakefield Press, Adelaide, 2011 $59.95 John Gladstones wrote this mesmerising book for the world’s grape growers and winemakers. But it’ll appeal to a wider audience – including those interested in the concept of wine and “terroir”, or readers looking for a concise but painstaking discussion on natural and … Continue reading John Gladstones on wine, terroir and climate change
Yangarra Estate Vineyard Roussanne 2010 $25 McLaren Vale, South Australia Roussanne, a Rhone Valley white variety, occasionally appears on its own in Australia, but more often in tandem with viognier or marsanne. Jancis Robinson called it the “shy” member of the trio as it avoids the viscosity of viognier or tannins of marsanne. In this … Continue reading Wine review — Yangarra, Hewitson, Cullen and Shelmerdine
Curly Flat Williams Crossing Pinot Noir 2008 $24–$27 Curly Flat vineyard, Macedon Ranges, Victoria Williams Crossing sometimes outscores its more expensive cellar mate at the annual Macedon wine show. As a judge there on several occasions I’ve consistently marked both at the top of the pack, for the simple reason that they deliver the magic … Continue reading Wine review — Curly Flat, Williams Crossing, Grant Burge, Heartland Wines and Angoves
How did Jim Murphy thrive in Canberra’s competitive liquor retail environment over all those decades? He set up shop in the late seventies, just as the Trade Practices Act (aided in Canberra by liberalised licensing laws) precipitated a complete restructuring of wine production, distribution and retailing Australia wide. Yet Jim successfully stepped from the genteel … Continue reading Farewell Jim Murphy — Canberra’s tenacious retailer
At Chateau Shanahan we’ve experienced cellaring joy and disappointments over the years. But consistent pleasure in older bottles of Majella Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon and The Malleea cabernet shiraz, reminded us of this marvellous winery’s interesting transition from farming to grape growing to winemaking. When brothers Brian and Anthony Lynn made the first Majella wine in … Continue reading Majella of Coonawarra — from sheep farming to winemaking
d’Arenberg Stump Jump Adelaide Hills McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc 2010 $10.79–$11.99 The great flood of New Zealand sauvignon blanc flowing into Australia must scare the pants off Australian winemakers. It’s not just the depressed prices, but also the fact that great swathes of Australian vineyards lie in areas not well suited to producing a competing … Continue reading Wine review — d’Arenberg, Jim Barry and Innocent Bystander
In 2000, renowned French “flying winemaker”, Jacques Lurton, established an 11-hectare vineyard on Kangaroo Island. His business at the time made wine around the world, with Lurton and his winemakers, including Australians, hopping from one country to another. In 2007 Lurton sold out to his brother and partner to concentrate on his own French and … Continue reading Jacques Lurton’s Kangaroo Island adventure
Pedro ximenez probably isn’t on the radar of most wine drinkers. And where we see the name, it’s probably on the label of a dark, sweet, sherry. But it exists as a delicate, long-lived dry white wine as well. And there’s a dwindling but significant treasure trove of it at Campbells of Rutherglen. It seems … Continue reading Last fling for pedro ximenez — a curio worth tasting
Lawson’s Dry Hills Riesling 2008 $19–$21 Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand There’s an echo of Germany’s Mosel in this juicy, off-dry white. It’s aromatic and delicate with amazingly luscious fruit, a subtle overlay of mandarin-like flavour, courtesy of botrytis – all balanced by racy, fresh acidity. Australia’s warm conditions generally can’t produce this style successfully. … Continue reading Wine review — Lawson’s Dry Hills, Hesketh, Brown Brothers, Water Wheel, Black Jack and Parker Coonawarra Estate
No vintage is all bad or all good. Even in the current cool, wet, mildew-riddled season endured by Canberra vignerons, bright spots and hope remain among the devastation, albeit with an anxious eye on the weather. After a decade-long run of hot, early vintages, Canberra looks distinctly cool climate in 2011, with harvest times likely … Continue reading Canberra vintage begins with an anxious eye on the sky