Wine review — Brindabella Hills, Simmonet-Febvre, Greywacke, Henschke, Bremerton and Alkoomi

Brindabella Hills Shiraz 2009 $30 Hall, Canberra District, Australian Capital Territory Can wine resemble its maker? It’s a far-fetched notion, perhaps. But Brindabella Hills shiraz shares a gentle understatement with its creator, Roger Harris. And the wonderful 2009 vintage seems even gentler and more understated than usual. The aroma’s sweet, fragrant and floral with a … Continue reading Wine review — Brindabella Hills, Simmonet-Febvre, Greywacke, Henschke, Bremerton and Alkoomi

They’ve Bin everywhere — Penfolds releases new reds

Price seems always at the heart of any new release of Penfolds much-loved, highly traded bin number wines. Fierce retail battles became part of the landscape from the late seventies, following the collapse of retail price maintenance. In recent years, however, a reticence to be first to cut means a little retail shadow boxing precedes … Continue reading They’ve Bin everywhere — Penfolds releases new reds

Howland and Wiggs buy original Lake George vineyard

Last November as Canberra’s grape vines burst into life, Peter Wiggs and Peter Howland walked onto the original Lake George vineyard, accompanied by its founder, 90 year-old Dr Edgar Riek. Wiggs and Howland had just bought the vineyard from Theo and Sam Karelas, its owners since 1998. Riek’s presence was more than symbolic. He planted … Continue reading Howland and Wiggs buy original Lake George vineyard

Wine — slash and burn, burrow and build in 2011

Overproduction, slash-and-burn retailing and our strong dollar should keep a lid firmly on mainstream wine prices throughout 2011. Adding to that chaotic mix are rising volumes of clean skins and labels owned or controlled by retailers, a dollop of parallel importing and the less-obvious but increasingly important activities of online retailers, auctioneers and direct marketers. … Continue reading Wine — slash and burn, burrow and build in 2011

West inspires the rest

Australia’s craft brewing industry owes much to the west. The comparatively large-scale success of Matilda Bay, and later Little Creatures, fanned widespread consumer interest in beers very different from mainstream styles. Matilda Bay’s Redback popularised the highly distinctive flavours of wheat beer to a lager-quaffing nation. And Little Creatures spread the gospel of highly aromatic, … Continue reading West inspires the rest

Brewing endeavour

It seems to be raining new beers. The latest – Endeavour Reserve Amber Ale 2010 (reviewed here last week) and Endeavour Reserve Pale Ale 2010 – have been released through Coles’ 1st Choice and Vintage Cellars outlets. These are both interesting, reasonably complex beers with no rough edges and a seamless drinkability usually associated with … Continue reading Brewing endeavour

Langton’s classification of Australian wine — the market’s scorecard

Every five years, Langton’s, a wine auction specialist belonging to Woolworths, updates its classification of Australian wines. Unlike all the other wine-rating systems, based on the judgement of individual palates, Langton’s derives its classification from the volume and value of wine it sells at auction. The rankings are therefore based on perceptions of value and … Continue reading Langton’s classification of Australian wine — the market’s scorecard

Wine review — Cullen, Lanson, Kilikanoon, Oakridge, Ant Moore and d’Arenberg

Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot 2008 $105 Margaret River, Western Australia What a contrast on the tasting bench – an ink-black, 14.9 per cent alcohol $75 Coonawarra cabernet and Cullen’s limpid, 12.5 per cent alcohol $105 cabernet merlot blend. I’ve no objection to the blockbuster. But, oh my, how can anything beat Cullen’s subtle elegance? … Continue reading Wine review — Cullen, Lanson, Kilikanoon, Oakridge, Ant Moore and d’Arenberg

Wine review — Brand’s Stentiford and Wynns

Brand’s Laira Coonawarra Stentiford’s Old Vine Shiraz 2006 $67–$75 We’ll kick off today’s Coonawarra theme with this beautiful, elegant shiraz sourced from some of the region’s oldest vines. When John Riddoch opened Coonawarra’s first winery in 1896, retired sea captain Stentiford, sold Riddoch shiraz grapes from his Laira vineyard, named after his old ship, and … Continue reading Wine review — Brand’s Stentiford and Wynns