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Category Archives: Beer
Belgians launch PET-packed beer in Australia
In the past, Australian breweries have produced beer in PET plastic bottles, principally for safety at large-scale event – protecting people from liquor fuelled violence or simply keeping benign drunks out of harm’s way.
Recently, however, Fluid Wholesalers, Sydney, introduced a plastic-packaged Belgian beer to the market, promoting its environmental as well as safety benefits.
Distributor Allan Hayes writes, “It is in a patented PET bottle which protects it from any reaction with the plastic and provides nine months life from production. We developed this as we saw a gap in the market for safe, lightweight and more environmentally friendly option over glass and aluminium”.
Initial distribution is Australia-wide through Woolworths’-owned Dan Murphy outlets and a few independent Sydney retailers.
Brass comes in two styles – Lager and Pilsener (which means they’re both lagers, the pilsner, reviewed below, being notably more lively and bitter, and the lager OK, but not exciting).
Brass Belgium Pilsener 330ml 6-pack $14.99 I couldn’t bring myself to drink from the plastic bottle, so glug, glug, glug, into the glass it went. Clear, pale-golden colour, good head retention and lively carbonation all raised hopes; the aroma and palate were as fresh as the appearance suggested. And the intense, bitter hops balanced the malt richness well.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 22 February 2012 in The Canberra Times
Posted in Beer, Beer review
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Nothing sheepish about Wig’s new lambic
This week Canberra’s Wig and Pen releases an oak matured beer, modelled on the ancient Belgian lambic style. Brewer Richard Watkins started the brew in January 2009 – a blend of 75 per cent barley and 25 per cent wheat malts – inoculated with a microbial tag-team, including brewer’s yeast, brettanomyces and lactobacillus (derived from Belgian lambic populations).
At the end of 2010, with the traditional lambic style now almost two years in barrel, Watkins sourced a batch of de-stemmed, de-seeded hail-damaged cherries from Young.
To build the mid palate of the beer, he added the pureed cherries to the two barrels – so the lambic became a kriek style, still following the Belgian tradition.
In early February 2012 Watkins transferred the beer to tank for final adjustments, including carbonation and freshening up with a dash more cherry.
Wig and Pen Lambs-go-Baa (Kriek Lambic) 285ml balloon $9 Three years in the making, this is perhaps Richard Watkins finest brewing achievement. The colour’s a medium cherry-skin red and the flavour combines sour cherry and marzipan. Brisk acidity keeps the palate lively and fresh. But there’s a rich texture, too, and a hint of oak-derived vanilla in the dry, delicious aftertaste.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 15 February 2012 in The Canberra Times
Posted in Beer, Beer review
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Wig and Pen to release lambic beer
Three years ago Wig and Pen brewer, Richard Watkins, laid down an oak cask of beer modelled on Belgium’s unique “lambic” style.
It’s risky stuff indeed as the tag team of microbes that create the beer could well bring the whole batch undone; the barrel itself might harbour uninvited micro guests; and the oxidative environment brings its own risks.
The style originated in the Brussels region and, indeed, a visit to brewers in the area sparked Watkins’ desire to have a go.
English beer expert, the late Michael Jackson, described it as “the oldest style of beer readily found in the developed world. Lambic beers gain their tartness from a content of at least 30 per cent raw wheat …but their defining characteristic is the use of wild yeast”.
Next week we’ll review the Wig’s lambic and get the full story on how Watkins made it.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 8 February 2012 in The Canberra Times
Posted in Beer
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Zierholz goes to uni
If the god’s of bureaucracy and fate smile on Christoph Zierholz, Canberra University may have its own brewpub by the time you read this. Well, it’ll have the pub, and lots of beer, but it’ll be a little while before the brewery arrives.
In mid-January, Zierholz said he expected to open the pub in time for O week (30 January to 3 February) and supply it from his existing brewpub at Fyshwick.
However, he plans to install a brewery this year and supplement the Fyshwick-brewed products with “unique house beers” brewed on site.
The bar will initially offer 18 beers and a couple of ciders, including Gundaroo’s Jolly Miller.
The university outlet – located at the hub in building 1, Kirinari Street – features a wood fired pizza, grill and some of the German-style dishes created originally for the Fyshwick brewpub.
Zierholz Pils 5-litre keg $40 The recyclable keg, purchased at Zierholz Brewery Fyshwick, opened easily, poured reliably and delivered the true, fresh-draft experience. The cloudy, light golden colour promises wholemeal goodness and delivers deliciously, with a pure, rich, malty flavour and lovely, clean lingering bitterness (for those that like hops).
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 1 February 2012 in The Canberra Times
Posted in Beer, Beer review
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Matilda Bay opens Melbourne brewpub
In December, Foster’s announced plans to shift its Matilda Bay brewery from Dandenong to Port Melbourne and open a café bar on site. The brewery’s already operational, with the café due to open shortly.
In some ways the move takes Matilda back to its Western Australians origins in 1984, when it brewed small batches for direct sale through the Sail and Anchor Hotel.
Carlton and United Breweries (now part of Foster’s) bought Matilda Bay twenty-odd years ago and later moved the brewing east, to Cascade, Hobart, with, from 2005, the small-batch “garage brewery” at Dandenong.
The opening of Port Melbourne reconnects the brewery with a direct outlet – much as rival brewer Lion Nathan has done with its James Squire brand. James Squire began at Camperdown, Sydney, but now has brew houses making and serving its beers in Melbourne City, Melbourne Dockland and Perth.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2012 First published 25 January in The Canberra Times
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Crown Ambassador de Luxe Lager — layers of flavour
Australia’s largest brewer, Fosters, makes one of Australia’s finest craft beers – Crown Ambassador de Luxe Lager. Ambassador measures up as “craft” on all fronts – quality, small production (4,000 to 7,000 bottles annually) and hands-on production by John Cozens and two brewing colleagues.
This year Cozens released the 2011 vintage, fourth in this series of high-alcohol, bottle-conditioned lagers.
It builds on the four previous vintages, adding what Cozens calls “layers of flavour” as he tweaks the style each year. In 2009 he introduced crystal malt to the blend, to add caramel and toffee notes. In 2010, a couple of hand-me-down oak barrels from Foster’s wine division added complexity, as well some unwanted characters to the blend.
This year’s release, incorporating handpicked galaxy hops from Bright, and a portion fermented new French oak, seems the most layered, pleasing brew yet.
Crown Ambassador Reserve Lager 2011 $90 Dark, cloudy, golden-amber Crown pours with a dense head and enticing aroma of floral-citrus hops and sweet caramel. Over an hour or as so it warms from fridge to room temperature, the silky textured brew s reveals layers of caramel and toffee malt flavours, spicy notes and both the flavour and bitterness of hops.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011 First published 14 December 2011 in The Canberra Times
Posted in Beer, Beer review
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Fosters releases fourth Crown Ambassador
Fosters released its fourth Crown Ambassador Reserve Lager in mid November. At $89.99 a 750ml bottle, it’s surely Australia’s most expensive beer. But then it’s an extraordinary brew, built for cellaring, Fosters makes only five to seven thousand bottles of it, and it’s positioned to market the Crown Lager brand, not slake a hard-earned thirst.
For the first time in 2011 vintage, brewer John Cozens matured a small portion of the beer in new French oak barrels from one of France’s great cooperages, Dargaud et Jaegle.
The oxidative environment of the barrels and direct flavour inputs from the new oak are certain to influence this year’s beer, despite making up just a few per cent of the final blend.
Like the earlier vintages, it’s high in alcohol (10.2 per cent) and contains fresh-picked galaxy hops from Myrtleford, Victoria. The latter adds distinctive aromas and flavours, and the former boosts the beer’s body and long-term cellaring prospects.
It’s likely to be served in upmarket restaurants and available in some retailers. Past vintages have been outstanding. We’ll report on the 2011 next week.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011 First published 7 December 2011 in The Canberra Times
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Growlers seen in Fyshwick
Plonk, at Fyshwick markets, now offers “growlers” – two-litre bottles filled on demand from 30-litre kegs. Growlers became a big part of America’s craft beer scene years ago, but made their Australian debut only last year in Melbourne.
Growlers give drinkers access to fresh, take-home draft beer from small brewers. For small brewers they mean a new route to market. Or, for those reluctant to take on the expense of bottling their product, growlers could be their only take-home offering.
Plonk owner, Anthony Young, says he sells the empty growlers for $10 each. Staff fill the bottles and buyers return with washed bottles for refills.
In late November, Plonk offered growlers of Bridge Road Brewers Galaxy IPA at $20 (compared to $4.90 for a 330-ml bottle – equivalent to $29.70 per two litres). Young intends to expand the range of beers available.
Bridge Road Brewers Galaxy Single Hop IPA 330ml $4.90 India Pale Ale (IPA) – originally a robust, generously hopped ale built for the journey, in cask, from England to India – remains a favourite and widely interpreted style. Brewer Ben Kraus’s version leads with the pleasantly pungent, resiny aroma of galaxy hops. The hops flavour cut through the smooth, rich, intensely palate.
Henney’s Vintage 2010 Still Cider 500ml $7.50 As cider’s popularity grows, we’re seeing many more high-quality versions made entirely from apples – in this case from cider varieties grown in Herefordshire, England. Made in autumn and stored over the winter, Henney’s delivers the full, ripe, mellow slightly rustic flavour of apples with a firm, dry finish.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011 First published 30 November 2011 in The Canberra Times
Posted in Beer, Beer review, Cider
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Hops on the hill
In 2005 Karen and David Golding established hops at Red Hill on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. This satisfied local regulations requiring would-be liquor licence holders to be primary producers.
They harvest the four varieties – Hallertau, Tettnanger, Golding and Willamette – around March each year for use in their Red Hill Brewery products.
These include three beers produced year round (Golden Ale, Wheat Beer and Scotch Ale) and seasonal specialties like the upcoming releases, Bohemian Pilsner and Christmas Ale, reviewed below, and Temptation, a seriously good strong Belgian blonde style.
Wheat Beer shows the classic fruity esters of this delicate style with a subtle, lovely tang of estate-grown Tettnanger hops.
Golden Ale delivers complex, refreshing, full flavours, cut through with the delicate flavour and soft bitterness of Hallertau and Tettnanger hops.
And big, bold, chocolaty Scotch Ale benefits from a lick of goldings and Willamette hops.
Red Hill Brewery Bohemian Pilsner 330ml $5.50 Red Hill takes a distinctive approach to this classic, full-bodied, hoppy, Czech style. It’s a little stronger than normal at 5.9 per cent, it’s unfiltered (and therefore has a yeast haze) and utterly delicious. From nose to finish, pungent hops wrestle with opulent, sweet, malt flavours, finishing strong, bitter and alcoholic.
Red Hill Brewery Christmas Ale 330ml $7 This ale salutes Chimay Red, one of the great Belgian abbey beers. It combines full, malty body with high alcohol (7.5 per cent) and a strong aroma input from hallertau and tettnanger hops flowers. It’s a sip and savour style, its opulence and silky texture a good much for Christmas cake or pudding.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011 First published 23 November 2011 in The Canberra Times
Posted in Beer, Beer review
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Craft brewers to join forces
Australia’s craft brewers are at last to have a national body to promote their product, liaise with government and advocate their interests.
Unlike the wine industry with its strong national promotional and representative bodies, craft brewers have been a fragmented lot despite their growing presence in the market.
Brewers behind the new national body (with state chapters) began working on the project in May and in July circulated a draft prospectus to the industry. In November they established Craft Beer Limited and called on brewers to join the association and participate in the election of a board.
The brewers behind the initiative are Brad Rogers and Jamie Cooke (Stone and Wood Brewing, Byron Bay), Brendan Varis (Feral Brewing Company, Swan Valley), Dave Bonighton (Mountain Goat Beer, Richmond Victoria), Miles Hull (Little Creatures, Fremantle), Owen Johnston (Moo Brew, Hobart) and Adam Trippe-Smith and Bruce Peachey (McLaren Vale Beer Company.
Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011 First published 16 November 2011 in The Canberra Times