Chris Shanahan: Wine review – Bremerton, Tar and Roses, West Cape Howe

Bremerton Special Release Langhorne Creek Mourvedre 2013 $24
Sisters Rebecca and Lucy Willson make and market a range of mainstream wines as well as little gems like this mourvedre. The variety, originally from France’s Rhone Valley, generally appears as the minor partner in blends with shiraz and grenache. However, several producers, including the Willsons, make stand-alone versions, sometimes sold under the alternative name “mataro” or, in one instance, under its Spanish moniker “monastrell”. Bremerton’s wine shows a highly fragrant, medium-bodied side of mourvedre, featuring slurpy, red-currant-like fruit flavour and fine but assertive tannins.

Tar and Roses Victoria Pinot Grigio 2015 $16.20–$18
Winemakers Don Lewis and Narelle King give us a full-bore expression of this sometimes bland white variety. “Grigio” means grey, and indicates a grey-pink-bronze hue that sometimes finds its way (as it does in Tar and Roses) into the wine’s colour from the skins. The hint of pear in the aroma flows through to a richly textured palate in which the smooth, silky mouth-feel becomes the dominant feature. A hint of sweetness suits this textural style, but it’s offset by mildly grippy tannins and refreshing acidity.

West Cape Howe Perth Hills and Frankland Tempranillo 2013 $17–$20
West Cape Howe tempranillo combines fruit from the warmer Perth Hills and cooler Frankland region, located almost 400km south-east of Perth. Winemaker Gavin Berry says the Perth Hills component contributes earthy, savoury characters while the cool-grown Frankland component provides spicy and berry flavours. The combination gives a richly flavoured, medium-bodied red with deliciously vibrant red-berry-like flavours. Earthy, savoury flavours and assertive tannic finish, typical of the variety, complete a really attractive red wine. The 2013 vintage won gold medals in the Mount Barker and Royal Perth wine shows and a trophy in the latter.