Yearly Archives: 2009

Will wine in plastic bottles succeed in Australia?

There’s a saying going around the industry that you can always tell a Foster’s wine executive – but you can’t tell them much. It shows in every part of their faltering wine empire, and even in a recent press release announcing the launch in Australia of wine in polyethylene terephthalate (PET) plastic bottles.

It’s an admirable, environmentally friendly initiative. But did anyone check the facts? And where’s the corporate memory?

The press release claims, “In an Australian first, Wolf Blass has released its latest range of wines producing 29% less greenhouse gas emissions. The new Wolf Blass Green Label wines come in a lightweight recyclable plastic bottle”.

It seems the attention-getting headline outranked truth, as Queensland’s Sirromet winery released its First Step range in PET plastic several months ahead of the Wolf Blass launch.

And what about corporate memory? Has Foster’s forgotten that it served Seppelt Fleur de Lys bubbly from PET bottles during Flemington’s spring carnival in 2006 – and added Wolf Blass table wine in PET bottles to the carnival menu in 2007?

These probably were the wine industry’s first use of 750ml PET bottles in Australia. And Foster’s had been an early mover in other markets, too, having launched PET-bottled Wolf Blass wine Canada in 2007 and the UK shortly afterwards.

And even before that, because of its lightness and safety, PET bottles rapidly replaced glass in the fast-growing single-serve market, dominated by those little 187ml bottles served on aircraft.

This seems to have sparked their successful uptake by consumers in the US – led by Fetzer’s Valley Oaks brand early in 2005 and followed in August the same year by Foster’s California based Stone Cellars by Beringer brand.

Both Foster’s and Sirromet push the environmental credentials of PET. Foster’s attributes much of the reduced carbon footprint to a “90% weight reduction of the 51gm PET bottle used for [Wolf Blass] Green Label compared to the industry standard glass bottle”. The lighter bottle contributes to a 36% reduction in the overall weight of the product, they claim.

But will this be enough to win wine drinkers over? In an online survey by Choice in 2007 those calling wine in PET bottles “sacrilegious” slightly outnumbered those saying they’d embrace it – but are outnumbered by those who don’t care.

We should remember, too, that almost half of the wine consumed in Australia reaches our dinner tables via the flexible bladder crammed inside chateau cardboard.

But not since the cask appeared some thirty years ago have we embraced any non-glass packaging so enthusiastically.
During the late 1970s and early 1980s, the four-litre cask (known more aptly in other markets as bag-in-box) drove the humble two-litre glass flagon from our shelves. Today only cheap fortified wines come in flagons, although the diminutive ‘goon’ lives on as the twenty-something’s jargon for cheap wine.

Various cheap, strong, light and appealing alternatives to glass and casks have enjoyed niche but not mainstream success.

In the eighties we saw sections of the trade boycott wine coolers packed in lunchbox-sized tetra packs. Some retailers feared that the fruit-juice-like appearance might appeal to underage drinkers, or that children might even confuse it for juice.

We’ve since seen some attempts at packing wine in one-litre tetra packs enjoying a modicum of success. And several makers have succeeded with wine in cans – most notably Italy’s Rich Prosecco, spruiked in Europe’s fashionable ski resorts by Paris Hilton.

But the successes are isolated and to date haven’t appealed to mainstream wine drinkers. However, environmental concerns about glass – particularly regarding its weight, high handling and transport costs and safety – mean that alternatives have to found.

As environmental concerns, backed by public policy, now dovetail with commercial cost-cutting needs, the number of alternatives is sure to grow. And PET plastic looks to be a strong favourite.

Like glass it’s strong, can be moulded into bottle shape, enjoys a long history as a drink container and is recyclable.
Unlike glass it’s comparatively light and won’t break into dangerous shards – which is good – but it’s not completely airtight, which is not so good.

Lightness is it’s overwhelming advantage over glass. Two years back, as they launched PET in Canada, Foster’s said that a 750ml PET bottle weighed around 54 grams, compared to a glass bottle’s 400–700 grams.

That means a significant energy saving for every inch of a wine’s journey. By my reckoning the forklift carries 266–496 kilograms less in every pallet; each 1000-case shipping container weighs 4.1–7.7 tonnes less; and the case you lug to your car weighs 4.1–7.7 kilograms less.

And the bottle even looks less bulky. The 750ml Sirromet sample in front of me, for example, looks like it might be 500ml.

At this stage, though, PET’s use will be limited to early-drinking wines as slight air permeability means a shorter shelf life than for the same wine in glass. Since most wine is drunk shortly after purchase, this perhaps makes the majority of wine a candidate for a PET bottle.

And will we wine drinkers accept the new packaging? A fair bit of evidence says that we will.

Indirectly, we’ve seen the dramatic take up of screw caps in the past decade. This can be viewed largely as a triumph of convenience over tradition – even if winemakers originally drove the change on quality grounds. The screw cap acceptance suggests that wine drinkers are not all that conservative and that the power of convenience and good sense should not be underestimated.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Beer review — Wig & Pen

Wig & Pen Hopidemic ale half-pint $4.20
Brewer Richard Hopkins believes this is among Australia’s hoppiest beers with over 1.6 kg of hops for every 100 litres of beer. But the focus is on fresh, pungent aroma and flavour rather than bitterness – and it works deliciously with the unctuous malt flavours. This is the cask-conditioned and hand pumped.

Wig & Pen Hop Heads ale, Venom ale half-pint $4.20
Hop Heads, a brew for heroes, percolates through a container (Modus Hoperandus) of Galaxy hop heads en route to your glass, giving the full, raw hops experience. Despite the name Venom has less sting than Hop Heads, balancing a dry, malty palate with intense, lingering, resiny bitterness.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Brewers go hop mad

The hops season ended recently and already we’re seeing beers that capture, in various forms, the wonderful aromas and flavours of freshly harvested hops.

From Foster’s there’s Cascade First Harvest Ale, brewed with fresh Tasmanian hops flowers. And from Lion Nathan, there’s James Squire Hop Thief, brewed at the Malt Shover Brewery and making a return after last year’s absence.

I have samples of each on the way for review in the next week or two. But closer to home, the Wig & Pen brewpub, Civic, offers three extraordinary ales brewed on the premises and served from the tap – including one that’s cask conditioned and hand pumped in the real ale style.

These are idiosyncratic beers and a little goes a long way. But they’re beautifully made. And they express various hops characteristics – aroma, flavour and bitterness – from a range of hop varieties, added at different stages of the brewing process to a diversity of malts.

The varieties include Golden Promise, American Simcoe, Tasmanian Hallertau and Tasmanian Galaxy (from Bushy Park hop gardens).

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Wine review — Ninth Island, Toolangi, Mud House, Main Ridge and Cloudy Bay

Ninth Island Tasmania Pinot Noir 2008 $20–24
Toolangi Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2007 $22–25

With a few exceptions, the entry price for decent Australian pinot seems to be around $20. But that’s the nature of a beast that needs a cool climate and low yields to deliver flavour and structure. Ninth Island (part of Pipers Brook, owned by Belgium-based Kreglinger) and Toolangi are two very good examples of entry-level pinot. Ninth Island seems light and fine at first sip, but there’s a depth to it that grows as you sip irresistibly to the end of the bottle. Toolangi, from Yarra Valley, perhaps because of its extra age, offers more savouriness and earthiness.

Mud House Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007 $25–$28
The comparatively recent, emphatic arrival of Central Otago pinot noir on the world wine scene gives us such names as Felton Road, Chard Farm, Rockburn, Carrick, Mt Difficulty and Mount Edward. Their quality and fame also means a $50-plus price tag. But the recent arrival in Australia of Mud House gives us a decent pinot from the region at a modest (for pinot) price. Made in Marlborough from fruit grown in Central Otago’s Bendigo sub-region, Mud House offers ripe, well-defined pinot flavour supported by soft but assertive red-wine tannin. It doesn’t need cellaring and should be enjoyed over the next two or three years.

Main Ridge Mornington Peninsula Half Acre Pinot Noir 2007 $65
Cloudy Bay Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007 $54–60

This is a classy pair of pinots, one from the Moet-Hennessy-Louis-Vuitton-owned Cloudy Bay at Marlborough New Zealand, the other from the White family’s tiny Mornington Peninsula estate. Main Ridge showed terrific promise tasted from barrel in January 2008. Tastes of the finished wine in February and May this year confirm it as one of the finest ever made in Australia, in my opinion – a silky, succulent, fine-boned wine of rare dimension, with the capacity to age for many years. Cloudy Bay offers the darker fruit flavours (like ripe black cherry or plum) of the pinot spectrum, with good structure, depth and cellaring potential.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

A yummy Hunter shiraz tasting

Ask any retailer and they’ll tell you Hunter shiraz is a hard sell. In the past it’s been described as tasting of sweaty saddles, old boots and even a gypsy’s nether regions. Like its white cellar mate, semillon, Hunter shiraz remains an intensely loved, niche wine style with tremendous ageing ability. The best are profound and – surprisingly when you look at the northerly latitude and hot climate of the Hunter – medium bodied and refined.

For a period in the eighties and nineties some Hunter shirazes caught the oak craze. But rather than push the region’s shiraz into the full-bodied mainstream, strong oak flavour and tannin simply swamped the delicate fruit – prompting one veteran Hunter maker, Phil Laffer, to say he’d shoot any winemaker using new oak.

But for every action there’s a reaction, and from the nineties we’ve seen a resurgence of Hunter shiraz making. Vignerons with a great respect for the old, long-lived styles and the patches of old vines in the Valley now produce a great diversity of top shiraz within the distinctive, medium-bodied, earthy mould.

Probably all of the best makers hold in awe the extraordinary Maurice O’Shea reds of the forties and early fifties – sourced largely from vines that still exist on McWilliams Mount Pleasant property, in the lee of the Brokenback Range.

And thanks to the Lindemans maturation cellar, established by Ray Kidd in the sixties, the same makers, and many wine drinkers of my generation, will have tasted classics from Lindemans Ben Ean vineyard, Pokolbin. Rare bottles of the 1965 Hunter River Burgundy Bin 3110 and Bin 3100 (one with a dash of pinot with the shiraz) still drink well. And has there ever been a better Hunter red (or, indeed, Australian red) than the beautiful 1959 Hunter River Burgundy Bin 1590?

Lindemans rationed small quantities of it into the market during the seventies and eighties from its air-conditioned, humidified cellars. I remember the final release (not sure if it was late eighties or early nineties). I worked for Farmer Bros at the time and we placed a dozen bottles in the cellar under the Manuka store (now Vintage Cellars) – kept at a constant 12 degrees.

We aimed to share the occasional bottle, hopefully over the next several decades as treasures like this should never be rushed. But, alas, Farmers went belly up in the last recession and Liquorland (owned at the time by Coles Myer) ended up with the stores and the stock.

Several months later, in mid 1995 and now working for Liquorland, I was there when the precious case appeared at a suppliers’ dinner in the Hunter. What an impressive stunt – every last trophy bottle slipped down the hatch in one evening. But I had the good fortune to sit with Len Evans, and shared the bottle he’d so carefully slipped under the table. There it was, 36 years old, gloriously, ethereally delicious and good for many more years.

While the precious old O’Shea and Lindemans wines inspired winemakers, Tyrrell’s and McWilliams, thanks to winemaker Phil Ryan, had kept working on the regional style without a break. And from the eighties, Brokenwood’s ‘Graveyard Vineyard’ shiraz took on a legendary status. This, perhaps more than any other single wine, restored respect to Hunter shiraz.

It’s at the full-bodied end of the Hunter spectrum – but far lighter, say, than Barossa or McLaren Vale shirazes. The just-released 2007 fetches $140 a bottle and back vintages are always in strong demand at auction.

Its release, alongside several other wonderful top-end Hunter shirazes, prompted this column. These are wonderful wines with proven cellaring ability and all from great old vineyards.  Anyone who’s kept a cellar knows that it’s not always rewarding. From my experience well-chose Hunter shiraz usually comes up trumps. Recent examples include maturing but youthful Tyrrell’s Vat 9 Shiraz 1994, McWilliams Maurice O’Shea Shiraz 2000, McWilliams Rosehill Vineyard Shiraz 1998, Vintage Cellars Somerset Vineyard Shiraz 1997.

Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2007 $140
The deepest coloured of the five wines in the tasting, Graveyard is still limpid and crimson rimmed. It’s ripe and earthy with noticeable, sympathetic oak. The fruit’s deep, concentrated and layered and the oak gives a spicy bite – but the tannins are soft. This one will age for decades. Vine age 39 years’; Graveyard vineyard. Screw cap.

Tulloch Private Bin Pokolbin Dry Red Shiraz 2007 $35
This is the third vintage of the reborn Tulloch Private Bin Red, a once legendary, long-cellaring wine that was as much an icon to the red drinkers of the fifties as Grange is today. This is pure, beautifully made Hunter shiraz – intensely flavoured, finely structured, silk smooth and elegant. There’s not a rough edge to it – tribute to superb fruit and sympathetic wine making. It should drink beautifully for decades if well cellared. The Tulloch label returned to the Tulloch family in 2001 after 32 years under corporate ownership. Vine age 100 years plus; Tallawanta Vineyard. Screw cap.

Mount Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Hunter Valley Shiraz 2005 $65
This is another comparatively big Hunter wine at 15 per cent alcohol. It’s ripe and earthy with just the first notes of maturity showing. There’s quite a bite to this one, both from tannin and oak, but the flavour depth and firm structure suggest long-term cellaring. Vine age over 125 years; Old Hill Vineyard. Screw cap.

Mount Pleasant OP&OH Hunter Valley Shiraz 2004 $39.99
While this is still big in alcohol at 14.5 per cent, it’s notably lighter bodied than the Maurice O’Shea wine. There’s spiciness to the aroma, nicely seasoning the warm, earthy Hunter aroma. The spiciness comes through, too, on the warm, supple, earthy palate giving a pleasing twist in the otherwise, soft, gentle finish. Another classy wine needing time, if only the cork survives – wine had already penetrated two-thirds of the one in the sample bottle. Vine age: from 1921 on the Old Paddock (OP) vineyard and from 1880 on the adjacent Old Hill vineyard (OH). Cork.

Mount Pleasant Rosehill Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2004 $33.99
Maurice O’Shea planted the Rosehill vineyard in 1946 near what is now Lake’s Folly vineyard, several kilometres from the Mount Pleasant property. This is the lightest bodied of the three Mount Pleasant reds and probably the least adorned with winemaker artefacts. It’s warm, mellow and earthy on the nose with a delicious, medium-bodied, earthy palate, finishing soft, with a little spicy twist. Long cellaring if the cork holds (had already travelled one centimetre in the sample bottle. Vine age: 58 years; Rosehill Vineyard.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Beer review — Brasserie du Bocq and Young’s

Brassserie du Bocq La Gauloise Amber Ale 330ml $5.30
This is a traditional Belgian top-fermented ale, re-fermented in the bottle. It has a dark amber colour with a lovely, sweet, fruity/malty aroma. This fruity/malty character comes through on a warming, well-balanced palate with a satisfying, tangy, bitter finish. It’s refreshing, complex and moreish. Imported by Phoenix beers and well distributed.

Young’s Luxury Double Malt Chocolate Stout 500ml $7.00
There’s chocolate in the brew and it shows up as a dry, bitter note in the finish – like strong high-cocoa chocolate. But more than anything it’s a full-bore stout featuring rich, roasted malt flavour, all-round opulence, smooth texture and assertive hops bitterness. A small glass on a cold night would be perfect.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Kirin to take over Lion

On 27 April Lion Nathan issued a media release saying its board had agreed to terms for Kirin’s takeover of the company. Japanese based Kirin currently holds about 46 per cent of Lion. The board’s recommendation of the takeover and terms is subject to no better offer emerging and confirmation from an independent expert that the offer is ‘in the best interests of Lion Nathan’s non-Kirin shareholders’.

Assuming the takeover goes through, Kirin will own the Hahn, XXXX, Malt Shovel/James Squire, Tooheys, Boags, West End, Swan, Emu, Waikato, Macs, Steinlager, Lion, Speights and Knappstein beer brands as well the rights to brew under licence, and distribute, Heineken and Beck’s beers.

It will also give to Kirin ownership of a range of premium wine brands – Stonier, Knappstein, Tatachilla, Wither Hills, St Hallet, Argyle, Smithbrook and Mitchelton – as well as Fine Wine Partners, a distribution business focused on top end products.

Kirin owned about 46 per cent of Lion before the takeover offer. Public statements to date say that the Australian crew running Lion Nathan will remain in place, becoming part of a bigger regional team.

This could be good news for some of our leading beer and wine brands. But given the scale of the Kirin operation and the peculiarity and capital-intensive nature of the wine business, I wonder if they’ll continue as a producer?

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Wine tasting — McWilliams Hanwood and Crittenden Estate

McWilliam’s Hanwood Chardonnay 2007 $9–$13
This is the story of the cheeky ocker wine that took on posh champs from around the world and won! In the Chardonnay du Monde competition, Burgundy, in March, humble Hanwood earned a gold medal and a top-10 placing. It’s not an unusual achievement for a cheaper Australian wine. And it underscores the value of cross-regional blending. In this case the McWilliam winemakers blended warm grown (and cheaper) chardonnay with more elegant, intensely flavoured material from cooler regions – achieving economy, flavour and freshness without heaviness. It’s consistently one of the best, so simply move on to the next vintage when this one’s gone.

Crittenden Estate Mornington Peninsula The Zumma Pinot Noir 2007 $49.99
I think Mornington offers more top-end pinot than any Australian region at present – a position that may change over time. It’s clearly well suited to the variety, has a substantial mass of plantings and almost thirty years’ intensive work under its belt. The Zumma is a great example of what the region can achieve. It’s sourced from the Crittenden family’s vineyard, established in 1982 in the very early days of Australia’s fascination with this great Burgundian variety. The wine’s heady perfume, richness and depth belie its light colour – but that’s pinot. It’s finely structured, silky textured, pure and complex.

Crittenden Estate Los Hermanos Tempranillo 2008 $30
Garry Crittenden, one of Australia’s pioneers of alternate varieties, blazed a trail with Italian varietals before turning, with the help of his children, Rollo and Zoe, to Spanish reds and whites. Among them, they’ve produced an exciting Los Hermanos Tempranillo 2008. It’s deep and crimson rimmed with fragrant, ripe, fruity aroma and plush, juicy palate with flavours reminiscent of very ripe cherries. But there’s plenty of soft tannin layered in with the fruit so that even though it’s very young and very enjoyable now it has the grip and texture of real red. It’s sourced from the Crittenden’s vineyard at Patterson Lake, 20km north of the Mornington Peninsula.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Wine review — Ara and Penfolds

Ara Marlborough Composite Pinot Noir 2007 $24–$27
Ara Marlborough Pathway Pinot Noir 2008 $19–$22

Nowhere is the old saying ‘by their fruits shall you know them’ more apt than in winemaking – a wine that speaks for itself beats even the fruitiest press release. And these two new releases from Ara did just that -– ‘Pathway’ presenting a particularly bright and zesty face (but still with savouriness); and ‘Composite’ focusing more on savouriness (but still with bright fruit). They’re absolutely outstanding – wines that build in interest as you sip through the bottle. Encouragingly, both blossomed for a few days after tasting, a good indicator of cellaring ability. They’re from a terrace on the junction of Marlborough’s Wairau and Waihopai Valleys.

Ara Marlborough Composite Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $19–$22
Ara Marlborough Pathway Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $16–$19

Like the pinot above these come from a large terrace near the junction of Marlborough’s Wairau and Waihopai Valleys. The terrace covers some 1,600 hectares and contains vines of varying ages. And like the pinot’s they’re outstanding wines. ‘Pathway’ is on the pungent, high-acid side of sauv blanc – but has a fruity depth to make these attributes tantalising. ‘Composite’ shows a wider spectrum of sauv blanc characters – a bit pungent, a bit tropical fruit and with an appealing, minerally dry finish. Ara is an exciting new face on the Marlborough wine scene. It’s headed by Dr Damian Martin. What an impressive debut.

Penfolds Grange 2004 ($550) and other ‘icon’ wines, various prices
Don’t look for massive discounts on the just released Penfolds Grange 2004. Global demand, shortage and stellar quality should kick this vintage off at around $550 a bottle – and it’s up there with the best. The other wines are as sublime, each in its own way: the powerful, cellarable Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 2006 ($185); the fragrant, opulent, gorgeous RWT Barossa Shiraz 2006 ($170); the graceful Magill Estate 2006 $100); the taut, elegant, low-oak St Henri 2005 ($95); the elegant, refined Yattarna Chardonnay 2006 ($130) and the bold, complex Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2007 ($90).

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009

Brown Bros caters for Australia’s sweet tooth

Ross and Judy Brown visited Canberra in March to launch the new vintage Brown Brothers ‘Patricia’ range – the company’s flagships. They’re wonderful wines and good value. But the visit highlighted the sheer depth of the Brown Brothers’ offering. Much of it’s driven, beneath the radar of wine columns, by a range of high-volume sweet whites and reds.

The company’s innovative approach is probably best seen from the cellar door, visited by about 90 thousand people each year. Here Browns offer an ever-changing menu of new wines, gauging drinkers’ reaction, before moving to larger production of successful products. The diversity offered at the cellar door can be glimpsed from the comfort of your computer screen on the cellar price list, available at www.brownbrothers.com.au

Current list of non-traditional styles includes prosecco, zibbibo, pinot grigio, albarino (temporarily withdrawn, and potentially to be renamed, following CSIRO DNA testing of Australia’s stocks of this variety), viognier, chenin blanc, vermentino, moscato, crouchen-riesling blend, tarrango, dolcetto-syrah blend, cienna, sangiovese, nero d’Avola, barbera, tempranillo, tempranillo-graciano blend and nebbiolo – representing thirty years of innovation.

As reported here a few weeks back, Ross attributes part of Brown’s success across the generations to high-quality sweet and fruity wines, both red and white. These seldom rate in wine columns but two of Brown’s sweeties – the red Dolcetto & Syrah and white Moscato – ranked ninth and fourth respectively in an AC Nielsen listing of Australia’s top selling wines (by value) in the year to 22 March 2009.

Now, you might wonder what link there is between the small-volume $57 top-end Patricia wines and the modestly priced, big-volume sweeties. The simple answer is that Browns take all of the styles they make deadly seriously.
And who drinks the sweeties? Ross says there’s no simple profile. The wines appeal right across the population, across ages, sexes and social status. And if there’s generally a trend for people to discover sweet, fruity wines, then progress to dry versions, it’s not universal. Many people stick to sweet wines for life.

Here, then, is a glimpse of Brown Brothers’ current popular sweeties and reviews of two exciting, dry pinot grigios and the flagship Patricia range

Brown Brothers Victoria Crouchen Riesling 2008 (10.5% alcohol) $13.40
This is like a slightly fat riesling – plumped out by the crouchen, a variety once known in Australia as Clare riesling but originally from the Landes region, southwestern France. It’s a crisp, easy drinking style but not made for cellaring. Note he modest alcohol content.

South Eastern Australia Moscato 2008 (5.5%alcohol) $15.40
This is one of the early Australian takes on the spritzy styles made originally in Asti, Piedmont. In both countries it’s made from Muscat of Alexandria grape, perhaps the most ancient of all cultivated varieties. The wine’s pale, spritzy and intensely musky/grapey – sweet but beautifully invigorating.

Zibbibo (6.5% alcohol) $15.40
In this sparkling version of moscato Brown Brothers use the southern Italian name for the muscat grape, Zibbibo. The bubbles make it even brisker than the still version but mutes the fruity, musk aroma and flavour.

Victoria Dolcetto & Syrah 2008 (11% alcohol) $15.40
Syrah equals shiraz and therefore needs no introduction.  But dolcetto – meaning little sweet one – is less well-known in Australia. Competing theories place it as a native of Dogliani, a Piedmontese village, or of France, having arrived in Monferrato, Piedmont, in the eleventh century.

Whichever is true, dolcetto’s by now a thoroughly Piedmontese grape making stunningly purple, fruity and generally soft, dry early-drinking wines – a real contrast to the mouth puckering wines made from nebbiolo, Piedmont’s most acclaimed red variety.

Brown’s blend is a vibrant crimson colour, spritzy and with pleasant mulberry-like fruit flavour, a grapey sweetness and lick of tannin in the finish.

Victoria Cienna 2008 (5% alcohol) $13.90
The CSIRO bred cienna from cabernet sauvignon and the Spanish sumoll variety in 1972, but it wasn’t bred until 2000. Brown’s version is brilliantly coloured and light and fresh on the palate, the fruit flavour having traces of cabernet’s leafiness.

Brown Brothers Victoria Pinot Grigio 2008 $18.99
Browns produce two classy dry pinot grigios – the standard blend, available at $18.99, and a limited release version, from a single block on the cold, 800m-high Whitlands vineyard. The standard blend (sourced from Whitlands and the 450m Banksdale vineyard) is a rich, soft dry white with crystal clear varietal flavour – it’s the real thing. The limited release wine, due for release next year, offers more intense flavours and a tighter structure with a lovely core of delicious fruit.

Brown Brothers ‘Patricia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $56
Brown Brothers ‘Patricia’ Shiraz 2005 $56

These are modestly priced for ‘flagship’ wines of the calibre. The shiraz, a blend from Avoca, Heathcote and King Valley shows cool-climate peppery/spicy varietal aromas and flavours and a solid, deep palate with quite an impact from the American oak – the one area that might be fine-tuned in future vintages. The cabernet comes from Western Victoria, the Dookie Hills and King Valley. It’s strongly varietal with deep fruitiness and leafy hints on the nose and a powerful but finely structured and assertively tannic palate – it’s a classic cellaring style and ought to drink well between 10 and 20 years’ age.

Brown Brothers Patricia Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier 2004 $39.90
Brown Brothers Patricia Noble Riesling 2006 375ml $35
These easily rank with best Australian examples of the styles. The bubbly comes from the cold Whitlands vineyard on a plateau above the southern end of Victoria’s King Valley. It’s cold enough to produce the intense but delicate flavours essential for top-end bubbly. This is juicy and fresh but very delicate, with a special textural richness and roundness probably attributable to the pinot meunier in the blend. The amazing, luscious ‘Noble’ offers the zesty, varietal ‘lime’ character of riesling and the exotic ‘marmalade’ notes of botrytis and a little bottle age. It’s from a single block of vines first noted for botrytis in the 1930s.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2009