Wine review — Lindemans, Ducketts Mill, Capital Wines and Jim Barry

Lindemans Coonawarra — $55

  • Pyrus Cabernet Malbec Merlot 2008
  • St George Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
  • Limestone Ridge Vineyard Shiraz Cabernet 2008

It was telling at a recent lunch how few people recognised Lindeman’s pedigreed Coonawarra trio. From the heart of the original terra rossa soils along the Riddoch Highway, the three once excited drinkers of top-end wines. Sadly, however, they disappeared into the vast Foster’s machinery. But they remain beautifully polished wines, each with its own personality – the fragrant, elegant Pyrus with its malbec high notes; the pure, varietal, authoritatively structured cabernet, from the St George Vineyard; and the fuller, rounder (but still elegant) shiraz cabernet blend, from the Limestone Ridge Vineyard, with its distinctive vanilla-like, oak-derived undertones.

Ducketts Mill Denmark Riesling 2010 $16
If you’re visiting Denmark, in Western Australia’s Great Southern wine region, be sure to visit the Lewis family’s combined Ducketts Mill cellar door and Denmark Farmhouse shop. Collectively, Ross and Dallas Lewis, with sons Ben and Matt, tend the eight-hectare vineyard, and produce a range of excellent cheeses (made from fresh, local milk), fudge, preserves and ice cream. Their wines are made off site at nearby Harewood Estate by James Kellie. The standout is the pristine and delicious riesling 2010, priced at a bargain basement $16. The family offers its wine and farm products by mail order through and

Capital Wines The Whip Canberra District Riesling 2010 $18
Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Clare Valley Riesling 2010 $20

In a mini riesling shoot out, Jim Barry’s Clare Valley wine, from the Lodge Hill Vineyard (one of the highest in the Clare Valley), gained the upper hand over Capital Wine’s The Whip – sourced from Yass River Vineyard and Lambert’s Tallagandra Vineyard, Gundaroo, and made by Andrew McEwin. The Clare wine shone on all fronts – floral aroma, vibrant lemon-like varietal flavour, fine texture and zingy fresh finish; all the marks of a good riesling. The Whip couldn’t quite match it – pleasant enough and definitely riesling, but didn’t match the purity and vivacity of the Clare wine. It may be a vintage thing as the 2009 was impressive.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2010