Monthly Archives: April 2011

Such tweet wine

A few weeks back an American bloke, Rick Bakas, wandered around Australian wine regions looking like he couldn’t believe his own good luck. Feted by the media and trade, Bakas sipped his way through the Hunter, Barossa and Yarra valleys, leading a series of global Tweet-ups.

He’s a guru, apparently, billed by Wine Communicators of Australia Inc as “one of the world’s foremost social media experts” and “a leader in wine communications in the digital age”.

The hype set off our sceptometer. But it also kindled our curiosity. Could social media, especially Twitter, really help take Australian wine to the world ­– or even to other Australians?

The answer, say several wineries and marketers, is yes, definitely. But like any facet of marketing, to succeed it needs to be part of a structure that ultimately delivers people what they want.

An instigator of the “Tweet-ups”, Trish Barry, of Mastermind Consulting, views the Bakas visit as a catalyst, fusing together a train of international activity. Importantly, says Barry, the activities led directly to sales of Hunter, Barossa and Yarra wines across the USA and sparked a possibly long tail of enquiries about these unique regional specialties.

Since creating awareness of Australian regional wine styles is the industry’s holy grail (major export markets know little or nothing of Australian wine regions) the value of this sort of activity could be significant.

Barry says the raw figures of the Tweet-ups tell only part of the story. It’s impressive that 2.92 million people followed the tour on Twitter. And it’s impressive, too, that 1,022 individuals tweeted 6,381 times.

But the true marketing success story lies in how Bakas and the Australian organisers lined up their ducks – who they recruited to the cause and, of crucial importance, their involvement of American retailer, Wholefood Markets.

They recruited Bakas, says Barry, because of his reach and influence among wine drinkers in the USA. Importantly, Bakas’s 50,000 Twitter followers and 5,000 Facebook friends included a number of other influential Twitterers and bloggers.

With help from Bakas and other sources, the Australian team identified then recruited several influential digital commentators – bypassing mainstream wine critics, including the influential Robert M. Parker. They then sent samples of regional wines and tasting notes in preparation for the Australian tastings.

Bakas also helped bring Wholefood Markets to the party. Unlike Australia’s large liquor retailers, says Barry, Wholefoods embraces social media. And with 1.8 million Twitter followers and 500 thousand Facebook friends, they began promoting Yarra, Barossa and Hunter wines ahead of the tweet-ups down under.

Barry says the retail connection completed the cycle: producers brought wines to the regional tastings and the tweets flowed freely. The tweets created interest in the regions and wines. And wine drinkers interested in the regions were able to buy at Wholefood outlets.

The tour lasted about two weeks. But the tweet-ups and associated master classes on YouTube continue to generate enquiries direct to producers from American retailers, restaurants and consumers, says Barry – setting the scent for long-term commercial connections.

Barry laments the absence of a major retailer in the Australian social-media scene. She says last year’s rose revolution – a Twitter campaign led by De Bortoli and joined by eighty wineries, including five from Canberra – created significant consumer interest in high-quality, dry roses.

The increased consumer interest drove significant sales in participating wineries and restaurants. De Bortolis reportedly sold a year’s supply in three months. But retailers missed the opportunity, probably disappointing some of their customers as well.

Jennie Mooney, the marketing voice of Canberra’s Capital Wines, says Twitter delivers huge benefits for her business. In a recent Wine Business Monthly article, she tore into Professor Larry Lockshin, head of UniSA’s marketing school, for his article, “Anti-social media”, published in the October 2010 edition.

Mooney says Lockshin had argued that Twitter was mainly about the trade talking to each other. It was therefore a substitute for traditional communications channels and not good for generating new buyers.

Mooney countered this with, “I’m trade and I buy wine – don’t other wineries buy wine too? I have also made a lot of friends on Twitter. Wineries, restaurants and others right across Australia; right across the world actually! By getting to know restaurateurs via Twitter, we are not just another winery making cold calls to their restaurant.

Most of our stockists came from Twitter – certainly all of our interstate restaurants, our east coast distributor and our Western Australian distributor are all new buyers due to Twitter. As well as trade, we have lots of consumers buying our wine and new members in our cellar club. I have sent our wine to people around the world and am in the process of talking to several potential distributors regarding export. October sales from Twitter were just over 3 pallets, which is significant for a small winery like ours”.

Mooney also talks at length of the power Twitter gives her to build direct relationships and trust with customers – and in the turn the direct voice this gives to her customers. These sentiments were echoed, too, by David Brookes, marketing manager of Teusner Wines, Barossa Valley, and Leanne De Bortoli, a principal of De Bortoli, Yarra Valley.

These wineries all agree, too, that Twitter isn’t a magic bullet. It’s just part of the marketing mix. For a tiny winery like Capital Wines, it’s a big part of the mix; and for a large operator like De Bortoli, a small but growing part.

Several marketers and wineries also agreed that Twitter leans more to business than private use, though many individuals participate by following others or tweeting their own views.

Trish Barry says the average age of Twitter users is 39 and users tend to be people who were early adopters of Facebook. One recent estimate, based on Google analysis, puts the number of active, unique Twitter users in Australia at 1.1 million – far short of our 9.4 million Facebook users.

This suggests the majority of readers of this column use Facebook but few use Twitter. In all likelihood, then, most of us missed all the recent chirping from the Barossa, Yarra and Hunter valleys. But whether we tweet or not, it’s there, it’s growing and it gives us direct access to people who grow and make wine for us.

@ChateauShanahan

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Wine review — Brindabella Hills, Simmonet-Febvre, Greywacke, Henschke, Bremerton and Alkoomi

Brindabella Hills Shiraz 2009 $30
Hall, Canberra District, Australian Capital Territory
Can wine resemble its maker? It’s a far-fetched notion, perhaps. But Brindabella Hills shiraz shares a gentle understatement with its creator, Roger Harris. And the wonderful 2009 vintage seems even gentler and more understated than usual. The aroma’s sweet, fragrant and floral with a spicy edge that carries through to the bright, soft, sweet, gentle palate. This is pure, cool-grown shiraz from one of Canberra’s lowest, warmest sites – a wine that grows in interest for days after opening the bottle. Harris’s reserve shiraz 2008 ($35) offers a fuller, slightly firmer variation on the gentle theme.

Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons (Simmonet-Febvre) 2007 $39.80–$41.90
Vaillons vineyard, Chablis, France
Chablis, the northernmost vineyard of France’s Burgundy region, lies at a chilly 48 degrees north. Its distinctive, flinty, dust-dry chardonnays – generally unoaked and instantly recognisable in masked tastings – offer some of the best value drinking on the planet. Thankfully they haven’t hit the stellar prices fetched by the fuller, riper styles made in Burgundy proper. Simmonet-Febvre’s version, imported by Woolworths, delivers all that’s good in this great regional style. Pure, flinty, minerally and succulently bone dry, it’s the perfect oyster wine, although versatile with food. Under French law the name “Chablis” indicates not only the region of origin but also the grape variety, chardonnay.

Greywacke Pinot Noir 2009 $40–$45
Marlborough, New Zealand
As winemaker at Selaks from 1983, Kevin Judd made some of the first New Zealand sauvignon blancs destined for Canberra, under the Selaks and Farmer Brothers labels. Judd later joined David Hohnen at Cloudy Bay, the brand that sold the sizzle of Marlborough sauvignon blanc to the world – and later developed a superb pinot noir. After 25 vintages at Cloudy Bay, Judd left and launched his Greywacke label, based on mature vines on the southern side of Marlborough’s Wairau Valley. All that experience comes to bear in this fragrant, medium bodied, elegant, luxuriously textured pinot.

Henschke Peggy’s Hill Riesling 2010 $15–$22
Eden Valley, South Australia
Eden Valley’s roller coaster 2010 vintage swung from cold to heat and wet to dry. Ultimately, write Prue and Stephen Henschke, “Lower yields coupled with mild ripening period resulted in incredibly concentrated fruit. The signature varieties of the Eden Valley, riesling and shiraz, once again produced exceptional quality with great acid balance”. The Henschkes source grapes for Peggy’s Hill (named for an Eden Valley landmark) from local growers. The wine offers pure, floral and citrus aromas and a zesty, dry palate, saturated with lemon and lime varietal flavours. This is one to enjoy any time over the next ten years.

Bremerton Verdelho 2010 $16–$18
Langhorne Creek, South Australia
Next sauvignon blanc occasion, try verdelho from one of Australia’s warm growing regions. These areas can’t succeed in a sauvy shoot out with cool Marlborough or the Adelaide Hills. But verdelho, first planted in Langhorne Creek in the mid nineteenth century, adapted well to Australian conditions. It retains good acidity in the heat and makes delicious, crisp full-flavoured dry whites. Like sauv blanc, it’s racy and fresh but has what I call a “sappy” note rather then herbaceous and tropical fruit characters. The Wilson family’s Bremerton is an excellent example of the style. Rebecca Wilson made it using only free-run juice from grapes grown on the family vineyard.

Alkoomi Shiraz 2009 $14.30–$15.89
Frankland River, Great Southern, Western Australia
Alkoomi – a 110-hectare estate at Frankland River in Western Australia’s Great Southern region – makes a typically Australian wide range of wine styles. But its best to me are shiraz and riesling. Even their entry-level shiraz bears the regional style stamp – closer to the refined Canberra style than it is to brawny Barossa, but still its own beast. Like Canberra shiraz it’s limpid and medium bodied and based on vibrant berry flavours; unlike the Canberra style, there’s a deep, savoury vein and an associated tight, tannic structure.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Beer review — Moa and Daleside

Moa Noir Very Rare Beer 375ml $5.90
Moa Noir is brewed in Blenheim, Marlborough, the heart of New Zealand’s sauvignon blanc country. It’s a strong, dark ale featuring flavours reminiscent of chocolate and roasted coffee beans. The palate, however, has a refreshing lightness to it and it finishes dry and bitter.

Daleside Pride of England Beer 500ml $8.20
From Harrogate, North Yorkshire, Pride of England is a mid-alcohol (four per cent), medium bodied pale golden ale, built for warm weather refreshment. It provides an attractive balance of fruitiness, smooth malt and refreshing, lingering hops bitterness, without any single element dominating the mix.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Smoked beer

Rauchbier’s an idiosyncratic style that originated centuries ago in Bamberg, Germany. ‘Rauch’ means ‘smoked’ and refers to beechwood smoking of barley during the malting process.

The smoked barley gives the beer a distinct, smoked-meat character. While Rauchbier can be seen as an idiosyncratic curio, it’s absolutely delicious enjoyed with local Bamberg food, like noodle soup with rich liver dumplings – an experience we’ve enjoyed but once.

These days smoked beer finds many expressions beyond Bamberg, including some made in the past or currently by Australian breweries. These include 3 Ravens Dark, Melbourne, Matso’s Smokey Bishop, Broome, and a memorable Wig and Pen, Canberra, Wobbly Boot Smoked Hefeweizen.

Two particularly interesting styles discovered recently at Plonk, were the opulent De Molen Belgian imperial stout – made using peated malt from Scotland’s Bruichladdich distillery; and HaandByrggeriet Royk Uten Ild, a dark but subtle version from Norway.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Wine review — Brindabella Hills and Greywacke

Brindabella Hills Canberra District Sauvignon Blanc 2010 $20
Sauvignon blanc is Australia’s most popular white wine style. But in Canberra’s vineyards, where riesling rules, it’s a niche variety, struggling for identity and seldom performing well at our local wine show. A consistent exception has been Roger and Faye Harris’s gentle, lovely version. Year after year it’s been on the money. The 2010 vintage, sourced from Brindabella Hills and neighbouring Pankhurst vineyard at Hall, continues the cellar style. It’s comparatively low in alcohol at 12 per cent and deliciously delicate, fresh and dry. The flavour’s subtly but clearly varietal, expressing the passionfruit-like warmer end of the cool-climate spectrum.

Greywacke Marlborough Wild Sauvignon 2009 $35
Greywacke’s Kevin Judd and sauvignon blanc go back to 1983. As winemaker at Selaks, Judd made some of the first New Zealand sauvignon blancs to be promoted in Australia, starting here in Canberra under the Selaks and Farmer Brothers labels. Judd then joined David Hohnen at Cloudy Bay, the brand that sold the sizzle of Marlborough sauvignon blanc to the world. After 25 vintages at Cloudy Bay, Judd left and launched his own wines – including this thrilling interpretation of the region’s signature variety, fermented by wild yeasts in old oak barrels. This is high acid, intense Marlborough sauvignon of great textural richness.

Brindabella Hills Canberra District Pinot Gris 2010 $20
Winemaker Roger Harris describes pinot gris as “more phenolic [tannic] than the other white varieties I’m used to working with”. Properly managed, says Harris, the tannins give pinot gris a firm backbone and silky texture – a unique and appealing feature of the variety. However, the tannins can also be astringent, throwing the wine off balance. Striking the right balance therefore has much to do with “fining” the wine – stripping out hard tannins using natural products like casein. The spritely, fresh 2010 vintage, sourced from the Mount Majura and Hall’s Crossing vineyards, truly captures the variety’s flavour, distinctive tight structure and rich texture.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

 

Last fling for pedro ximenez — a curio worth tasting

Pedro ximenez probably isn’t on the radar of most wine drinkers. And where we see the name, it’s probably on the label of a dark, sweet, sherry. But it exists as a delicate, long-lived dry white wine as well. And there’s a dwindling but significant treasure trove of it at Campbells of Rutherglen.

It seems hard to believe now, but this Spanish white grape once starred in Australia’s wine industry. Brought to Sydney by James Busby in 1832, pedro ximenez spread to our hot, dry growing regions, including Rutherglen, Victoria. A century later it underpinned production of Australian “sherry”, much of it destined for the UK.

Rutherglen became an important production centre, with two of Australia’s largest producers and exporters located there. Winemaker Colin Campbell recalls Seppelt, at Rutherglen, and Lindemans, at nearby Corowa, New South Wales, being “based on sherry soleras”.

But by 1968, when Campbell returned to the family business from winemaking studies at Roseworthy College, fortified wine, including sherry, had begun its long decline, and table consumption was on the rise.

To meet growing demand for dry white wine, Campbell turned to the only two white varieties in the family vineyard – pedro ximenez and trebbiano. Both had been planted for sherry production and their fruit sold to Lindemans.

He says the pedro vines had probably been planted between 1900 and 1908, by his grandfather, David Campbell, son of the property’s founder, John Campbell.

Like other Victorian grape growers, the Campbells lost their original vines to phylloxera – the small but deadly American vine pest that also devastated European vineyards in the late nineteenth century.

To relieve distress among grape growers, says Campbell, the Victorian government despatched Francois de Castella to Europe. There he sourced vines, including pedro, grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock. David Campbell’s new plantings came from de Castella’s material.

Campbell installed refrigeration at the winery and set about making a dry white pedro ximenez. Picked early, with comparatively low sugar and high acidity, the wine began life austere and dry, but developed greater richness and character with bottle age.

However, a run of wine show successes failed to spark interest in the variety. Incredulous winemakers, including Leo Buring’s John Vickery, laughed in wonder but stuck with established table wine varieties.

Vickery, the father of modern Australian riesling – an experienced sherry maker, too, using pedro ximenez in Buring’s popular Florita Flor sherry) – rightly dismissed pedro as a curio.

Campbell says bottled aged pedros invariably spark a similar reaction from drinkers ¬– scepticism before tasting, followed by an incredulous smile. I’ve been there twice. The first time, about eight years ago, on a retail buying trip, we tasted 20 or so vintages. The earlier wines carried “Chablis” labels, in line with generic naming of a past era; but from the late eighties carried the varietal name, pedro ximenez. What surprisingly delicious and delicate old wine they were. More recently, a lovely, fresh, delicate, slightly honeyed 1999 vintage, served at a dinner party, prompted a call to the winery, and this article.

Curio or not, pedro succeeded for Campbell’s from the late sixties until production ceased after the 2007 vintage. Colin Campbell says, “We stopped then because it was a curio and because we only made a small volume, it was difficult to handle”.

He says pedro shoots early, making it prone to damage from spring frosts. And the big berries tend to swell and burst in rain, or rot and fall off. However, pedro vines remain in the vineyard and now contribute to cheaper sweet fortified wines. Campbell says these vines are descendents of those established by his grandfather a century ago – the vineyard having been replanted in the mid 1990s.

While the winery discontinued production after 2007, Campbell expects stock to be available at the cellar door for some years as they’ve always released it as an aged wine. Because it’s so acidic and austere as a young wine, explains Campbell, “it needs at least five to six years to develop bottle age character. And it also needs cork character to age properly”.

But using cork exposes the wine to two risks – cork taint and random oxidation. And oxidation, laments Campbell, takes a massive toll, rendering up to 60 per cent of older pedros unsaleable. He says they destroy bottles that fail pre-release assessment.

Campbell’s dry, white pedro ximenez remains a curio – but a loveable, mellow and drinkable one, at a refreshingly low 11.5 per cent alcohol. Unfortunately, it’s destined for extinction.

But there’s still time to enjoy it. Campbells currently offer at cellar door the 1997 vintage for $35 and the 2004 vintage for $25.90. And all of the vintages from 1998 to 2007 remain in the cellar for future release. It’s history in a bottle.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011
First published 6 April 2011 in The Canberra Times
Published in The Melbourne Age Epicure 26 July 2011

Wine review — Domaine Lucci, Katnook Estate, Tinpot Hut, Brancott Estate, Domain A and Parker Coonawarra Estate

Domain Lucci Pinot Noir 2010 $30
Basket Range, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

Lucy Margaux Vineyards, a small, biodynamic operation in the Adelaide Hills, makes brilliant, sumptuous pinot noir from several individual vineyards in the area. Of four sent to us recently by winemaker Anton van Klopper, our favourite, by a small margin, was this highly perfumed, generously flavoured, slightly sappy but silky wine from his Basket Range vineyard. Van Klopper says he uses spontaneous fermentations and makes no additions, apart from sulphur at bottling. The pinots in particular are slurpily irresistible. Available at cellar door, see www.lucymargauxvineyards.com

Katnook Founder’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $15–$20
Coonawarra, South Australia
Cabernet sauvignon covers almost half of Katnook’s 197-hectare Coonawarra vineyard, despite the variety’s declining popularity in recent years. It’s a case of a regional specialty riding out swings in fashion by being the best. Indeed, Founder’s Block might easily woo drinkers back to cabernet. It presents the variety’s alluring, pure ripe berry aroma and flavour on a gentle, elegantly structured palate that grips without rasping as young cabernet sometimes does. It does this without diminishing the varietal character and drinking satisfaction. It’s simply made to enjoy right now rather than in ten or fifteen years.

Tinpot Hut Gruner Veltliner 2010 $25
Marlborough, New Zealand
What happens to Austria’s gruner veltliner transplanted to Marlborough? Well, it’s a surprisingly robust dry white – somewhat bigger and fatter than we see in the Austrian originals. It’s sort of pudgy but lovable, featuring nice, juicy fruit flavours – reminiscent of peach seasoned with candied orange – but still finely textured, crisp, fresh and dry. Zapping off for another New Zealand vintage this week, Kate Day said Tinpot Hut’s interesting new white should be on retail shelves and in some restaurants in the next few weeks.

Brancott Estate “T” Terraces Pinot Noir 2009 $22–$27
Brancott Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
In 1973 Montana Wines established Marlborough’s first modern vineyards at Brancott in the Fairhall Valley, part of the larger Wairau River valley. In the nineties the company planted broad acres of pinot noir, gambling on it as the red most likely to succeed in the area. Pernod Ricard later bought Montana and partly because of naming rights in the USA, renamed the company Brancott Estate. After an enormous amount of hard work, the pinot gamble paid off. As we see in this lovely, reasonably priced wine, sourced principally from the Brancott vineyard. It’s pale coloured, delightfully perfumed and delivers rich pinot flavour on a fine, silk-textured dry palate.

Domaine A Stoney Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $35
Coal River Valley, Tasmania
When we close our eyes and think of Tasmania, cabernet’s usually out of scope. We think mainly of chardonnay and pinot noir. But down in Campania, just north of Hobart, Peter Althaus makes two substantial cabernets, his flagship “A”, and “Stoney Vineyard” – a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot – released as a mere pup six years after vintage. It’s a highly distinctive wine built on intense, ripe, dark-berry flavours – like a blended essence of blackcurrant and mulberry. Almost three years’ maturation in oak sets this syrup-rich fruit in a matrix of fine, firm, elegant tannins and, in conjunction with the fruit, produces an exotic cedar-like aroma. Grew classier and classier with each passing day.

Parker Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $40
Southern Coonawarra, South Australia

Parker Coonawarra Estate, Xanadu Margaret River, Yering Station Yarra Valley and Mount Langi Ghiran Grampians form the Rathbone Wine Group – an elite collection of great regional wines, each polished close to perfection under Rathbone family ownership. The Coonawarra cabernets in 2006 are sensational. The graceful, elegant $40 wine – mostly cabernet sauvignon, with a splash of petit verdot – has at its heart the most beautiful, sweet berry fruit flavours. These are tightly wound with oak flavours and tannins into a single, delicious flavour. Parker First Growth Cabernet Merlot 2006 ($110) shares the familial poise and elegance, with even sweeter, richer fruit and more powerful but balanced tannins.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Beer review — Dalgety Brewing Co and Matilda Bay

Dalgety Brewing Co Smoked Porter 24x330ml bottles $80
It’d drive you to drink – the label says Dalgety Brewing, the web address is snowyriverbeer.com and the home page says Snowy Vineyard Estate. But their porter sends a clear message – “I am dark, malty, chocolaty, alcoholic, round and smooth; porter through and through”. Available through the web site and at cellar door.

Matilda Bay Alpha Pale Ale 345ml 6-pack $19.99
Growing success of Matilda Bay’s Fat Yak, a toned-down version of Alpha, prompted a revisit to the original. What a beautiful, idiosyncratic beer it is, featuring opulent malt and eyebrow singeing Cascade hops from Washington State. It’s quite an accomplishment packing in so much flavour and bitterness and maintaining drinkability.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Wine review — Stonier, Jim Barry and Juniper Estate

Stonier Mornington Peninsular

  • Pinot Noir 2009 $25–$28
  • Chardonnay 2009 $24.20–$26.90

Stonier, one of the oldest Mornington Peninsular wineries, began under Brian Stonier, became part of publicly listed Petaluma group and was later acquired by Lion Nathan. The ownership changed, but Brian Stonier keeps an eye on operations and the Stonier wines remain as good as ever – up there with the best from the region. In 2009 the fine-textured chardonnay reveals ripe, sweet melon- and nectarine-like varietal flavours, set against a subtle backdrop of barrel derived aromas and flavours. The pale coloured but intense pinot noir delivers one of the best pinot experiences possible at the price.

Jim Barry Lodge Hill Watervale Riesling 2010 $16–$20
This beautiful white, from the Barry family’s Lodge Hill Vineyard (one of the highest in the Clare Valley), won the Douglas Lamb Perpetual Trophy at this year’s Royal Sydney Wine Show. Despite the modest price, Lodge Hill shines on all fronts – floral aroma, pure, vibrant lemon-like varietal flavour, fine texture and zingy fresh finish – all the marks of a good riesling. It’s a fitting trophy as Jim Barry, winemaker, and Douglas Lamb, wine merchant, were contemporaries and shared a love of good wine. Both are now dead, but their children carry on the family enterprises founded by their fathers.

Juniper Estate Semillon 2009 $22–$26
Margaret River semillon generally has a distinctive aroma and flavour, described variously as “pea pod”, “canned pea” and even “cat’s pee”. These can be turbo, in-your-face flavours or just a subtle undertone that’s part of cool-grown semillon. In Margaret River winemaker often use semillon, with great effect, to flesh out and give structure to sauvignon blanc. In this version Mark Messenger coaxes the best from semillon using a wild yeast ferment, “in tight grained French oak and maturation yeast lees, to build texture and structure”. The result’s very pleasing – recognisably semillon, but with great complexity and a tight, firm structure.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011