Monthly Archives: August 2011

The Costco Canberra wine offer

4 August 2011WineChris Shanahan

The liquor section occupies just one aisle of the vast Costco warehouse. You weave your way to it past pre-fab gazebos, kayaks, pallets of flat screen televisions, groceries, small goods, dairy products and more, dodging truck-sized trolleys loaded with everything – including the kitchen sink (double tub).

Yes, the kitchen sink distracts us as we arrive at the long gondola of waist-to-chest-high open wooden boxes crammed with wines. The gondola-end screams for attention with tissue-wrapped Penfolds reds, including Grange 2006 ($479.99) and Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($149.99).

Fittingly, they’re in company with blue chips from France’s Bordeaux region – first growth, Chateau Margaux 2008, cheaper than Grange at $399.99 (and probably not as good in this vintage) and second growth, Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2008 at $124.99.

We wander around the two-sided gondola discovering an eclectic mix of Australian and imported wines, with perhaps a greater weight to imports than we’d see in the average local liquor store. This probably reflects Costco’s American origins – Americans tend to drink a greater proportion of imports than Australians do – and formidable international buying power.

There’s a strong focus on Champagne at very keen prices, starting with the house brand, Kirkland Signature Brut NV at $33.99. It’s sourced from an address in Verzenay (a village in the Champagne region) and shipped via Louisiana, USA. I’ve not tried it yet, but the price is good for the real thing, so it’s worth a try.

If you’re not willing to chance your money on the house brand, a big stack of the delicious Bollinger Brut NV at $58.99 may prove tempting – though it’s close to Dan Murphy’s $59.85 and 1^st Choice’s $62-odd. Competition may bring them all back to the same level. We note Cosco’s stock doesn’t bear the import sticker of the Australian agent, Fine Wine Partners. So it’s probably a direct import.

A big floor stack of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut NV at 51.99 offers great value, too, though not dramatically below Dan Murphy’s $52.85 each (in six-packs). But Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial NV at $48.99 trims a bit over $10 off the Dan Murphy price. Likewise Moet’s deluxe blend, Dom Perignon 2002 at $187.99 makes Dan Murphy look expensive at $214.95 each in six-packs.

A couple of potential bargains catch our eye among these wooden crates – 2009 vintage Chablis from Domaine William Fevre ($18.99), one of the region’s most highly regarded producers, and Michel Bouchard ($14.99). We can’t resist, so watch for the reviews in a few weeks. While we’re in chardonnay mode we grab a bottle, too, of Puligny-Montrachet 2008 ($42.99) from negociant Louis Latour. We’ll throw that in the same tasting.

Nearby we spot the beautiful De Bortoli Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 (reviewed today) at $21.10 – towards the bottom end of its price range.

We notice a mix of Australian wines from big and small makers, including Grant Burge, Penfolds, Wolf Blass, Tyrrell’s, McWilliams, Evans and Tate, Brokenwood (especially Beechworth Pinot Gris at $11.99), Seville Estate, Freycinet, Meerea, Tarrawarra, Yarra Yering, Ross Hill, Tamar Ridge, De Bortoli, Knappstein, Fonty’s Pool and Petaluma.

The Australian selection continues on pallet racks near the wooden-case displays, dominated by cut cases of Yellow Tail 1.5 litre bottles at $11.99. On an adjacent rack we find the only two wine casks on offer – four-litre De Bortoli Colombard Chardonnay and Cabernet Merlot.

Back at the wooden cases we poke around among the imports, including Chateau Tour St Bonnet 2006, a cru bourgeois from the Medoc, Bordeaux at $19.99 – worth a chance, for sure at that price. Nearby we see a small selection from Spain’s Rioja region, ranging from $14.99 to $29.99 for Campo Viejo Gran Reserva 2003. We have no idea how good these might be, but we’ll taste and review them over time. Likewise we’ll try Flori Barolo 2006 at $16.99 and Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2005 at $35.99.

From Beaujolais in France we see Fleurie 2009 (Chateau du Chenas) at $14.99 and from Burgundy, Savigny-Les-Beaune 2008 (Michel Bouchard) at $15.99 and Nuits-St-George 2008 (Bouchard Pere et Fils) at $38.98. We don’t expect any excitement here, but these are good prices for Burgundy and the wines just might be OK. We’ll let the wines do the talking.

Our pulses race when we see a couple of wines from Taylors, one of Portugal’s great Port houses – and the prices seem sharp: $37.99 for Taylors Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 2001 and $16.98 for Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004. These are unique, undervalued fortified wines, far removed the styles we produce in Australia. We notice Morris of Rutherglen muscat and tokay among the tiny range of fortifieds.

Nearby we see a couple of whites from Alsace and a potentially good German wine, Urziger Wurztgarten Riesling Spaetlese 2008 (Christoffel) at $14.99.

From New Zealand we see wines from Cloudy Bay and Villa Maria – but not like the acres of sauvignon blanc lined up in most liquor stores. Oh, yes, we spot a French sauvignon blanc, too, from Sancerre in the Loire Valley.

Clearly Costco are not attempting to be all things to all people. It’s a small selection and while the prices seem good, there’s nothing here that the big retailers won’t be able to match. Indeed their focus on known Australian brands will certainly increase competition in the region. Smaller retailers, however, may feel the pinch as they lack the buying power of these big groups.

Whether or not Costco can hold our interest is another matter. If the range on offer changes over time then there’ll be reason to return. But if it’s a static offering, then it won’t take long to work through the range – which is so much smaller than offered by the big retailers and independent operators in our region.

On the other hand, a narrower choice may appeal to many wine drinkers confused by the colossal range on offer in some outlets. And by including so many affordable imports in the mix, Costco may tempt drinkers outside their comfort zones.

Beer review — North Coast Brewing and Heather Ale

4 August 2011Beer reviewChris Shanahan

North Coast Brewing Pranqster Belgian Style Golden Ale 355ml $8.90
This delicious, deep-golden Californian ale, weighing in at a solid 7.6 per cent alcohol, comes from Fort Bragg, California. The makers say it’s brewed using “a mixed culture of antique yeast strains”. The aroma’s fruity, with a caramel-like malt background ¬ – these come through, too, on a round, well balanced, fresh, clean palate.

Heather Ale Ebulum Elderberry Black Ale 330ml $6.90
The label says Welsh druids introduced this beer style to Scotland in the ninth century. It’s a potent (6.5 per cent alcohol) brew, including malted barley, elderberry and roasted oaks among the ingredients. Black as tar, still lively a month from its use-by date, with generous roasted-grain flavours, it’s a unique winter warmer.

Costco beer offering — limited but very keen prices

3 August 2011BeerChris Shanahan

There’s little excitement in store at Costco for adventurous beer drinkers. But the limited offer seems keenly priced and pitched mainly at drinkers of mainstream premium imported beers.

Just four of the eleven beers on display (all in case lots only) are Australian brands – XXXX Summer Bright Lager 330ml ($36.69, Dan Murphy $36.95), Hahn Premium Light 375ml ($28.79, Dan Murphy’s $31.99), Bighead No Carb Beer 330ml ($43.99), and Tooheys Extra Dry 345ml ($35.99, Dan Murphy’s $39.99).

Prices on six of the seven imported brands undercut Dan Murphy by varying amounts: Heineken 5-litre keg ($28.99, Dan Murphy $29.95), Asahi Super Dry 330ml ($48.99, Dan Murphy 54.99), Stella Artois 330ml ($38.49, Dan Murphy $39.45), Budweiser 355ml ($41.49, Dan Murphy $45.95), Calrsberg Green 330ml ($38.98, Dan Murphy 442.99), And Beck’s 330ml ($38.98, Dan Murphy $39.85)). However, Costco needs to sharpen its pencil to beat Dan Murphy on Guinness Draft Cans 440ml, priced at $55.99 versus Dan Murphy’s $49.90.

Wine review — Helm, Clonakilla, De Bortoli and Brokenwood

3 August 2011Wine reviewChris Shanahan

Helm Classic Dry Riesling 2011 $30 – wine of the week
Murrumbateman, Canberra District, New South Wales
The two Canberra District 2011 rieslings reviewed here today probably share more similarities than differences – although there are distinctions. Both show the high acidity of the cool, wet growing season. But the high acidity seems to intensify the delicious fruit flavour. In Ken Helm’s wine this shows as a lemon-like varietal character in the aroma and flavour. It’s bone dry and definitely, at this early stage of its life, in the aperitif style. Ken says there’ll be no premium riesling this year because of crop losses on Al Lustenburger’s vineyard. The small production from the vineyard went to this outstanding classic dry.

Clonakilla Riesling 2011 $25–$30
Murrumbateman, Canberra District, New South Wales
Tim Kirk’s 2011 riesling is slightly more alcoholic than Helm’s wine (12 per cent, versus 11.2 per cent), suggesting marginally more ripeness. This reveals itself in the delicate floral notes in the aroma and flavour. The wine seems, overall, a little more delicate than Helm’s, perhaps because of the floral character and the absolutely delicious integration of the acidity and fruit flavour. Both wines should be candidates for gold medals at the regional wine show later this year. That’s how good they are. Either could have been wine of the week. 2011 looks exciting for Canberra whites.

De Bortoli Chardonnay 2010 $21.85–$28
Dixons Creek Vineyard, Yarra Valley, Victoria
The concept of wine being too fruity may seem far-fetched for a product made from grapes – especially given Australia’s export success with fruity, “sunshine in a bottle” wines. But Australia’s best chardonnay makers, including De Bortoli’s Steve Webber, headed down this less fruity path a decade or more ago. Webber writes, “ whilst it is important to have nuance of variety and oak, the characters of site, season, texture and minerality are equally important to us”. Webber’s subtle, richly textured 2010 chardonnay is an affordable and excellent example of the style.

De Bortoli Pinot Noir 2010 $25.95–$33
Yarra Valley, Victoria
Leanne De Bortoli and winemaker husband, Steve Webber, drink lots of Burgundy, notably those from Domaine Armand Rousseau, one of the region’s greatest pinot noir makers. Benchmarking of this calibre sets a winemaker’s sights very high indeed – and it shows in the beautiful pinot noirs made by Webber. His latest estate-grown release captures so much of the variety’s magic – limpid colour, heaps of perfume, deep, juicy, plump fruit flavour, savouriness and an abundance of fine, soft, velvety tannins giving structure. Our bottle revealed a little more each day for four days, suggesting it’ll evolve well with several years’ cellaring.

Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2010 $25–$30
Hilltops, New South Wales
Tim Kirk’s new Hilltops shiraz shows the comparative elegance of a cool, post-drought vintage – following the plumper juicier wines of the warm 2007, 2008 and 2009 seasons. Appropriately for a wine from Young, the flavour resembles fresh, ripe cherries – with a noted buoyancy and liveliness. Kirk says he picked a little earlier than usual, just beating the rain. This, along with a portion of whole-bunch fermentation (where the fermentation occurs in inside the berries), and a touch of viognier, added to the bright, berry-like flavours.

Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2009 $150
Graveyard Vineyard, Pokolbin, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
Brokenwood’s Graveyard shiraz sits at the top of Australia’s collectible wines –alongside Penfolds Grange and 15 other wines comprising Langton’s “Exceptional” classification. It’s the only Hunter wine on the list and beautifully expresses the unique long-lived style of the region’s shiraz. It’s a generous wine, but medium bodied – rather than the full-blooded style we might expect of a region as far north as the Hunter is. It’s earthy and savoury and easily absorbs a sweet, spicy dose of new French oak. The palate’s an essence of Hunter shiraz – like a reduced stock in its flavour concentration and silk smooth texture.