Chris Shanahan: Wine review — Tulloch, Best’s and Jacob’s Creek

Tulloch Pokolbin Dry Red 2010 $22–$25
The label dates from1952 and the company goes back 1895. Its modern history includes sale of J.Y. Tulloch and Sons to Reed Consolidated Publishing in 1969, followed by 32 years in corporate hands before Jay Tulloch and business associates bought the farm back in 2001. Since then we’ve tasted nothing but impeccable regional wines, like this enduring specialty – a medium bodied, fragrant, silky smooth red with bright, ripe fruit and what can only be described as “Hunteriness”. It’s a beautiful wine, can be cellared successfully and never fails to impress – and surprise – lovers of cool climate shiraz. That’s the warm Hunter’s great paradox.

Best’s Great Western Bin O Shiraz 2010 $75
Whether you’re after an outstanding drink or want a special memento to enjoy years, even decades, down the track, Best’s Bin O’s worth looking it. Its pedigree stretches back more than 100 years, although the exact date of the original label isn’t known. Sourced from four low-yielding sections of the Thomson family’s vineyards – planted in the 19^th and mid 20^th centuries – Bin O presents a unique power and elegance. Despite the intense peppery, savoury varietal flavours, the wine’s silky, supple and a joy to drink now. But the harmonious layering of sweet fruit and fine tannin should see it flourish in the decades to come.

Jacob’s Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $13.30–$18
The Jacob’s Creek reserve range, once multi-regional blends, recently moved to single-region sourcing and labelling. Always outstanding at their price points, and always containing material from our better regions, their move to regional labelling gives better marketing support to the quality of the wine in the bottle. In this instance, for a modest price, we enjoy an outstanding expression of Coonawarra cabernet. It’s pure varietal in its berry, black olive and leaf aroma and flavour, its rich, firm palate and elegant structure. We enjoyed a few bottles of this around Christmas and noting it’s still around town, sometimes on special, give it strong endorsement.