Left: Aussie-brewed Beck’s, pale and fresh, but its origin revealed only on the back label. Right: two glasses of the darker, stale Woolworths import.
Beck’s $US20m settlement highlights beer paradox: locally brewed version likely better than the German import
A US class action over deceptive packaging of US-brewed Beck’s beer has resulted in a US$20mllion settlement. Americans who thought they were buying a German import will be able to get cash payments.
Beck’s parent company, Anheuser-Busch InBev, agreed to the settlement and changed its packaging. But under the settlement did not admit any wrongdoing.
In Australia, Lion brews Beck’s, though Woolworths imports the German original. The two bear identical front labels, except the word “Imported” appears on the German neck label and “330ml on the Australian label. Only on the back label does the Australian brew declare its origin.
In a triple blind tasting, the fresh Australian Beck’s outclassed our stale German bottle, bearing a September use-by date, but purchased on 21 October from BWS.
The benefits of local brewing, including freshness, are many. But drinkers deserve a prominent statement of origin. Shouldn’t it be on the front label?
Reviews
Mornington Pale 330ml can $4.40 Like a genie rising from the bottle, the aroma of lavish, citrus-like hops gush out with the hiss of the can’s tab. The hops flow through as a spikey, tart sensation on the rich, malty, vigorous palate. Resiny, citrusy hops flavours rise through the malt and subside partially as their bitterness takes over and lingers.
Sint Canarus Tripel 330ml bottle $8.20 Sint Canarus, a small craft brewer in the Belgium village of Gottem, makes this strong ale (7.5 per cent alcohol) in a style developed originally by Trappist Monks. Its deep golden colour, sturdy white head and intensely fruity aroma whet the appetite for the opulent, malt-sweet, spicy, creamy palate that follows.
Heggies Eden Valley Riesling 2015 $19–$23.95 Vine rows snake along contours of Heggies vineyard, meagrely nourished by lean soil and a dry climate. From this challenging site, 550 metres above sea level, Peter Gambetta makes the steely, delicate, much-loved Heggies riesling. A warm, dry season and early harvest created the 2015 now appearing on retail shelves. Water-pale colour and modest alcohol content (12 per cent), point to a delicate wine of lemon-like varietal flavour and brisk, dry finish. It’s a wine to enjoy now for its vigorous, fruity youth. Or buy a case, drink a bottle every couple of years and enjoy its evolving flavours.
d’Arenberg The Olive Grove McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2015 $14.25–$15 Chester Osborne’s well-priced chardonnay combines fruit from warm McLaren Vale and cool Adelaide Hills. Fermented then matured in French and American oak barrels for seven months, it offers deliciously bright, fresh melon and citrus varietal flavours. The oak treatment contributes more to the wine’s rich texture than it does to flavour, meaning varietal fruit flavour is the star. This is a very good modern chardonnay style, offering full body, without heaviness, delicious fruit, rich texture and a dry, refreshing finish – all at a modest price.
Hay Shed Hill Block 8 Margaret River Cabernet Franc 2013 $35 Sometime before the mid eighteenth century in France’s Gironde region, the red variety cabernet franc spontaneously crossed with the white variety sauvignon blanc to produce a remarkably progeny – cabernet sauvignon. We might therefore call cabernet franc the mother of all cabernet sauvignons. The latter became the star of the cabernet family. But cabernet franc remains an important blending partner, along another offspring, merlot. Occasionally it appears unblended, as in this beautifully aromatic red from Mike Kerrigan’s Hay Shed Hill. The floral aroma leads to an elegant palate, combining floral character with ripe-berry flavours.
Balnaves “The Tally” Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Balnaves family vineyards, Coonawarra, South Australia $90 The dense colour and vivid purple meniscus suggest a five-year old of great staying power. The aroma and palate confirm the wine’s youth and could accurately be described as essence of cabernet. Ripe cassis-like varietal flavour saturates a powerful palate, deeply layered with fruit and tannin, part of it oak derived. Despite the wine’s power, it retains Coonawarra’s elegant structure. Were it not for the ProCork seal – a cork coated with a wrinkly, plastic membrane at each end – this would be a five-star wine. Wine has already travelled past the membrane, raising questions about the seal’s long-term integrity, crucial in a potentially very long lived wine.
Lerida Estate Pinot Noir 2014 Lerida vineyard, Lake George, Canberra District, NSW $26.50 Lerida Estate lit up an inconsistent pinot noir class at the local agricultural society’s Canberra and Region Wine Show 2015, winning the only two gold medals among16 entrants. Judges rated the $65 Lerida Josephine 2014 slightly ahead of the $26 wine, which is due for release in about three months, says owner Jim Lumbers. Lerida’s $35 Cullarin Pinot Noir 2014 won a bronze medal in the same class. Lumbers long-term vineyard and winery work on pinot, in conjunction with winemaker Malcolm Burdett, is paying off. He says pinot is the only red variety to ripen reliably on this elevated, cool site. Continuing tweaks to canopy management and winemaking regime produced this aromatic, fine-boned, silky style.
Battle of Bosworth Shiraz 2013 The Hill, Braden’s and Chanticleer vineyards, McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.75–$25 Nothing fancy about Battle of Bosworth 2013, just a big mouthful of ripe, juicy shiraz flavours, reminiscent of luscious black cherries or, as one taster saw it, sour cherry. In the ripe, early 2013 vintage that lovely fruit flavour remains at the heart of the wine, where in cooler years the spicy and savoury characters of McLaren Vale shiraz tend to be more pronounced. Ripe, soft tannins match the sweet fruit and complete a delicious, drink-now red.
Mount Horrocks Semillon 2014 Watervale, Southern Clare Valley, South Australia $30 Stephanie Toole’s semillon provides the full body and texture of an oak-fermented white but unique flavours, far removed from our usual oak-fermented tipple, chardonnay. Semillon’s unique lemon- and lemongrass-like characters come through in both the aroma and flavour and give delicious vigour and life to the deep, satisfying palate. The 2014 perhaps shows a little less flesh and more lemongrass character than the 2013.
Traviarti Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Fighting Gully vineyard, Beechworth, Victoria $30 Simon Grant moved to north-eastern Victoria to head a grape-grower cooperative before buying land in Beechworth. He established a vineyard devoted mainly to Piedmontese variety nebbiolo, with a smaller amount of Spain’s tempranillo. While waiting for his own vineyard to produce, Grant sourced cabernet grapes from Mark Walpole’s neighbouring Fighting Gully Road vineyard. It’s a tasty first effort, offering ripe, well-defined cabernet varietal flavours, with good mid-palate richness (often missing from cabernet) and assertive tannins, which give a firm, dry finish.
d’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne 2014 McLaren Vale, South Australia $14.25–$16 McLaren Vale’s warm climate appears to suit Rhone Valley white varieties viognier and marsanne better than it does chardonnay, riesling and sauvignon blanc. Chester Osborne’s blend puts the bolder of the two varieties, viognier, in the driver’s seat. This gives the wine its distinctive apricot- and ginger-like character and slick texture, ameliorated somewhat by the marsanne. For a reasonable price it provides vibrant, rich, dry drinking with unique flavour and texture.
Brewer and ski enthusiast Chuck Hahn will no doubt look with excitement at the new Blizzard Brewery, located on the Victorian ski fields.
Hahn, founder of Hahn, James Squire and one-time head brewer for the Lion group, in 2009 established his own alpine brewery, Kosciuszko Brewing, at Jindabyne.
The town, gateway to the NSW ski fields, sits below the snow line at around 920 metres. Blizzard Brewing, however, lies right in the middle of the white stuff, 1550 metres above sea level.
A Linkedin notice from the company says the brewery, due to open in April 2016, is just 50 metres from the Cobungra ski lift and 10 kilometres from the Mount Hotham ski lifts.
Blizzard claims to be the “only brewer in Australia to adopt the Rocky Mountains craft brewing model that is based on ski resorts and their visitors”.
Beer reviews
Brewcult Spoiler Alert Pale Lager 330ml $4.90 Brewcult of Derimutt, Victoria, urges drinkers to embrace a simple refreshing beer and not to “hate on lager”. Their pale lager appeals for it herbal, hoppy aroma and crisp, fresh palate. However, the hops bitterness, though pleasant at first sip, quickly becomes astringent and takes over the beer.
Sierra Nevada 2015 Oktoberfest Festival Lager 355ml $5.50 America’s Sierra Nevada made this lager in collaboration with Germany’s Brauhaus Kiegele. Made in the mould of “festbier”, the beer served at Oktoberfest, it offers a rich, warm, malty flavour with a creamy, soft palate. Harmonious hops flavour and bitterness perfectly balance the malt sweetness.
Hewitson Miss Harry Barossa Valley 2013 $21.85–$25 What would a bunch of hairy chested blokes make of tender, supple, perfumed Miss Harry, served alongside burly reds from Clare Valley and McLaren Vale? The group generally favours big, ripe shiraz with their post-tennis curry. But the lighter coloured Miss Harry overcame early suspicions and several drinkers came back for more. The blend of grenache, mourvedre, shiraz, cinsault and carignan provides perfume, spice, ripe fruit, supple texture and instant gratification. It’s a subtle, medium bodied red in a unique, tender, juicy Barossa style.
Grosset Clare Valley Apiana 2015 $40 Jeffrey Grosset’s Apiana combines semillon with fiano, a very old white variety from Campania, Italy. It was mentioned as early as 1240, write Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz in Wine grapes (2012). They describe the variety as a “rich, waxy, strongly flavoured, fashionable, southern Italian”, cultivated in Australia by Grosset and others “looking for varieties that withstand the heat”. Grosset’s blend provides exciting drinking, with vivid citrus and melon fruit flavours and chewy, smooth texture that could indeed be called “waxy”.
Yalumba Christobel’s Barossa Semillon Sauvignon Blanc $12.35–$15 Had mainland Australia remained a few degrees further south, our vignerons may have had an answer to New Zealand sauvignon blanc, the absolute leader of Australia’s white wine market. Alas, we can’t match what the folks make in cool but sunny Marlborough at 41-degrees south. However, we can offer a bright and zesty alternative with our blends of semillon and sauvignon blanc. Early picked Barossa semillon gives a lively, zesty, citrusy tang to Christobel’s blend, while the mention of “sauvignon blanc” on the label no doubt adds commercial appeal.
Smith and Hooper Wrattonbully Cabernet Merlot 2012 $16.15–$21 During the red wine boom of the mid nineties, Australia’s large winemakers began broad-acre vine plantings at Wrattonbully, adjoining Coonawarra’s north-eastern boundary. Ten years later, the area contributed large volumes of high quality fruit for many popular wine brands. But nobody new for sure how high fruit quality might go in future. And ten years on, we know quality can be about as good as it gets in Australia. The area now contributes to some of our greatest wines, but also produces lovely, elegant reds like this inexpensive Smith and Hooper blend.
Kangarilla Road McLaren Vale Terzetto 2013 $30 Terzetto, meaning threesome, combines three varieties – sangiovese, primitivo and nebbiolo – all vastly different beasts. Sangiovese and nebbiolo originate in Italy. But primitivo, originally from Croatia (its oldest name there is tribidrag), thrives in southern Italy and in California as zinfandel. Primitivo gives the wine its bold fruit flavour, augmented, says winemaker Kevin O’Brien, by sangiovese. Nebbiolo, the noble grape of Piedmont, gives the wine its firm backbone and savoury complexity. Exotic flavours, medium body and savoury, firm tannins set Terzetto apart. This is our second review of the wine, the first done on the tasting bench and this one over a meal.
Yering Station Little Yering Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2013 $17.10–$18 The Rathbone family’s Yering Station produces some of Australia’s finest chardonnays, including their estate chardonnay ($38) and reserve chardonnay ($90). Happily, the quality of their craft trickles down to the affordable Little Yering Chardonnay. This a really gorgeous white, built on mouth-watering, cool-climate varietal flavours, reminiscent of nectarine and citrus. But the fruit comes with extra layers of aroma, flavour and texture derived from oak barrels. You get a lot of wine for a modest price.
Simao and Co Vintage Fortified 2014 Alpine Valleys and Glenrowan, Victoria $48 This is the story of a seventh generation winemaker, six grape varieties, purple feet and a totally slurpy wine inspired by Portugal’s vintage ports. In 2013, winemaker Simon Killeen left the old family business, Stanton and Killeen, and shortly afterwards struck out on his own. Like his late father, Chris Killeen, Simon loved Portuguese port. Inspired by a vintage in the Douro Valley in 2012, he made Simao 2014 by applying traditional Portuguese techniques – including foot-stomping of crushed bunches, stalks and all, and hot fermentation – to shiraz, tinta roriz, alicante bouschet, tinta barroca, durif and touriga nacional. He fortified the wine with neutral brandy spirit. This brought the alcohol content to 20.5 per cent, arrested the fermentation and left around 60 grams per litre of sugar in the finished wine. The result is a ripe and vibrantly fruity wine, made even juicier by its slight sweetness and cut by the racy tang of brandy. It’s in the approachable, elegant style of Portuguese vintage port, but should age gracefully for some decades.
Vickery Riesling 2015 Zander family Quarry and Kosi blocks, Eden Valley, South Australia $23 Last year MD Wines launched Vickery Watervale Riesling 2014, made jointly by former Leo Buring riesling maker, John Vickery, and Phil Lehmann. In 2015 the pair produced two rieslings, one from Watervale (reviewed two weeks back), the other from the Eden Valley. The Eden Valley lies a little further south on the Mount Lofty Ranges than Clare and, being cooler, produces a different style of riesling. The 2015 shows a highly aromatic, floral side of the variety with a strong but delicate, dry palate combining apple- and –citrus-like varietal flavours and powerful acid backbone.
West Cape Howe Two Step Shiraz 2013 WCH Langton vineyard, Mount Barker, Great Southern, Western Australia $24–$28 For good reason shiraz remains Australia’s most widely planted grape variety. Our vignerons harvest around 400 thousand tonnes of it every year, putting it a nose in front of chardonnay’s 380 thousand tonnes, but streets ahead of nearest red rival, cabernet sauvignon’s 220 thousand tonnes. Almost every region has its shiraz, in styles driven largely by climatic differences. In Western Australia’s deep south, West Cape Howe 2013 combines bright, fresh red-berry flavours with the black pepper character seen in cooler climates. There’s a savoury element, too, so it all adds up to an appealing, distinctive expression of our national red specialty.
Toolangi Chardonnay 2014 Toolangi vineyard, Dixon’s Creek, Yarra Valley, Victoria $25.65–$28 Garry and Julie Hounsell planted Toolangi vineyard at Dixon’s Creek, Yarra Valley, in 1995. They hand the fruit over to various winemakers including, for chardonnay, David Bicknell of Oakridge and Willy Lunn of Yering Station. Bicknell makes the higher priced “Estate” chardonnay ($38), while Lunn makes this classy drop, which is also estate grown. It shows the juicy nectarine-like varietal flavour of Yarra chardonnay bubbling through the textures and flavours derived from fermentation and maturation in oak barrels. Taut acidity pulls all the flavours together into one totally enjoyable whole.
Schild Estate Grenache Mourvedre Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley, South Australia $14.25–$18 Who can resist the sweet, ripe fruit flavours of the Barossa in a favourable vintage like 2013 – a year marked by warm, dry conditions “but without any significant periods of severe heat”, write the Schild family. Their 2014 blend leads with the appealing aromatics and ripe, red-currant-like flavours of grenache. The other varieties come into play on a solid, earthy palate, backed by mourvedre’s rustic tannins and spice and the generous flavour and softness of shiraz. This is an easy wine to love – and the price is right.
Willow Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 Willow Creek vineyard, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $33.25–$40 Established in 1989, Willow Creek arrived in the comparatively early days of Mornington Peninsula pinot noir. At the time grape growers and winemaker were learning how to manage the variety in the vineyard and winery. The blossoming really began in the 1990s, followed by a great finessing this century, as ever-better fruit arrived in wineries. In Willow Creek 2013, winemaker Geraldine McFaul captured the fruit flavour of of a warm season in a cool climate. The seasonal heat shows in the great ripeness and richness of fruit flavour and firm, grippy tannin structure. This powerful combination should nourish the wine through a long cellaring life.
Tasting Grange 2011, Penfolds Magill Estate, 25 August 2015. Photo: Chris Shanahan
The release of Penfolds wines on 15 October will create a great wave of publicity, intense retail activity and widespread consumer interest, especially in the heady prices.
Are the wines worth their asking prices? Can buyers resell the wines profitably? Or, as has happened so frequently in the past, will auction prices fall below retail levels?
Many people hoard Penfolds wines, whether to drink, gift, resell or, unintentionally, bequeath (what a wake).
However, speculation in wine remains as fraught and risky as any investment; perhaps even more so as wine generates no income – just the hope, often illusory, of a capital gain. Meanwhile the wine risks spoilage, breakage and dinner party raids.
Best then to look at the one great certainty Penfolds provides: the distinctive style, exceptional quality and long-term cellaring potential of the top reds – an quality now shared by the whites, albeit with generally shorter cellaring windows.
Penfolds Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling 2015 $30 From a good Eden Valley vintage comes this floral and lemony riesling. A core of plump fruit gives it immediate appeal. But its intensity, delicacy and strong line of acid suggest long-term cellaring.
Penfolds Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2014 $40 Ultra-fresh Bin 311 2014 combines melon-rind and grapefruit-like varietal flavours with the texture and the slightly funky, biscuity influence of fermentation and maturation on yeast lees, without obvious oak flavours.
Penfolds Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2014 $100 Spontaneously fermented in mostly new (82 per cent) oak barrels, Reserve Bin A shows a powerful, if oaky, face of chardonnay. Despite the power, oak and yeast-lees character, the wine shows lemon-zest freshness in a bold style.
Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2015 Coal and Derwent Valleys, Tasmania; Adelaide Hills, South Australia $150 Like Hardys with its Eileen Hardy flagship, Penfolds quest for the finest cool-climate chardonnay led it steadily south to Tasmania, which now contributes the majority of fruit. This is profoundly good, oh-so-fine chardonnay. Another bottle please.
Penfolds Bin 23 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir 2014 $40 Winemaker Peter Gago takes Bin 23 pinot in a unique direction. It’s gutsy, firm and clearly Penfolds in one respect. But the inclusion of whole bunches, a wild ferment and no filtration gives the wine a deep, earthy, savoury, tannic character well removed from fragrant, pretty-fruit styles. People will either love or hate its idiosyncrasy.
Penfolds Bin 150 Marananga Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 $80 That Marananga, in the western Barossa, is home to some of Penfolds’ favourite shiraz, shows in Bin 150’s irresistible, ripe, juicy fruit flavours. And the fruit comes in layers with plump, ripe tannins, and the uplifting influence of first-class oak.
Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Coonawarra, Wrattonbully, Barossa Valley, South Australia $80 From a diversity of regions, ranging from warm to cool, Bin 407 shows definitive, ripe varietal flavours of cassis and black olive, with an overlay of sweet oak and the variety’s authoritative, firm tannins.
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2013 Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, Coonawarra, South Australia $80 The ripe, alluring aroma that’s neither cabernet nor shiraz, leads to a tremendously vibrant, buoyant palate, seamlessly combining cabernet’s power with shiraz’s subtle, juicy, flesh. Oak lifts the whole wine and firm tannins wash through a great Bin 389, with long-term cellaring potential.
Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2012 Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills, Robe, Clare Valley, South Australia $100 (Wine of the release) An inviting, sweet, fruity-earthy shiraz aroma leads to a buoyant, lively palate with deep, sweet, red-berry shiraz flavours – caressed by the finest, softest tannins imaginable. This is one of the best ever – a truly great Australian shiraz, destined to evolve for decades.
Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz 2013 $130 One of the best Magills yet, from a warm vintage, retains the distinctive, elegant and medium bodied style. Ripe, plummy, jube-like fruit aromas lead to a warm, lively, seductive palate, where the high-quality oak gives thrust and spice to the lovely fruit.
Penfolds RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013 $175 RWT shows a fragrant, fruity, supple side of Barossa shiraz, supported by high-quality French oak; it contrasts strongly with the power, and American oak influence, of Grange. Luscious fruit flavours, reminiscent of ripe, black cherry, saturate the 2013’s palate, combining lusciously with ripe, soft tannins and an appealing cedar-like character, derived from maturation in French oak barrels.
Penfolds Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 $350 Bin 169 cabernet provides an elegant contrast to the great power of Bin 707. In the warm 2013 season, Bin 169 leads with ripe, blackcurrant-like varietal flavour, with a touch of leafiness. Sweet oak and tannins come in waves, washing through the ripe fruit flavours and giving a uniquely “Penfolds” experience. I would expect Coonawarra’s elegance to emerge as the wine matures over the next few decades.
Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Wrattonbully and Coonawarra $500 Bin 707 resembles Grange in its dense, crimson-rimmed colour, distinct barrel-ferment character and unique elements of its aroma. However, these are mere seasonings to a potent cabernet, built on amazingly concentrated fruit, in a matrix with powerful, ripe tannins, partly oak derived. Like Grange, Bin 707 becomes increasingly finer and elegant with very long term cellaring. It’ll be a wonder and a joy to experience the journey of this great vintage.
Penfolds Grange 2011 Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Magill Estate, South Australia $785 From one of the coldest, wettest vintages on record, comes a successful Grange, whose sweet, ripe fruit belies the cold season. The fruit proved flavoursome enough to absorb 17 months’ maturation in new American oak hogsheads. The palate combines fruit, oak and winemaking inputs in typical Grange style. But the vintage character shows in the way the supple, ripe fruit bubbles up through the tannins on a softer, more approachable palate than usual. However, even soft, easy-drinking Grange (1982, for example) ages well, and I’d be surprised if the 2011 isn’t drinking well 30 years from now.
Penfolds supplied these recommended prices ahead of the 15 October release. Expect retailer discounts.
Canberra’s brewers generally greet spring with a slew of new brews.
BentSpoke, Braddon, offers Farrer’s Wheat, its first wheat beer, and Reflector, a malty, hoppy beer made by a bunch of dads on Father’s day.
The Wig and Pen, Llewellyn Hall, offers Aviator Bock, a strong beer for heroes, alongside mid-strength Aqua Amandi wheat ale for the lunch crowd; English Brown Ale and London Porter for cooler days; and Grassy Eider, a hand-pumped, high alcohol (6.6 per cent) variant of Irish red ale.
Pact Beer Co is launching 42.2 Summer Ale at the Old Canberra Inn on 5 November, as part of Canberra Beer Week. “It’s a refreshing lawn-mowing beer with enough hops to keep the beer nerds happy”, says brewer Kevin Hingston.
Christoph Zierholz offers Old Fashioned Bohemian Lager and a Burragorang Bock, both contract brewed for George IV Inn, Picton, but available also at Zierholz Fyshwick and Canberra University outlets.
Beer reviews
Green King Abbot Ale 500ml $7.99 Suffolk-based Greene King brews beer runs pubs, restaurants and hotels across the UK. Their mid-amber coloured Abbot Ale offers fruity and malty aromas and flavours on a generous, warm palate. After a few sips, a refreshing bitterness begins to build, offsetting the malt sweetness delciously.
Konig Ludwig Weissbier 330ml $4.90 Konig Ludwig, an outstanding example of the Bavarian, bottle-conditioned wheat style, comes from the Warsteiner brewery. Be seduced by its cloudy, pale golden colour; abundant white head; sweet, fruity aroma and rich, creamy palate with a zesty, ultra-fresh finish.
The Vintner’s Daughter Riesling 2015 Vintner’s Daughter vineyard, Murrumbateman, Canberra District, NSW $28 In September 2014, Ken Helm’s daughter Stephanie Helm and husband Ben Osborne bought Yass Valley winery and vineyards at Murrumbateman. The couple’s first riesling, from the excellent 2015 vintage, showed its class a few months later when it won the trophy as best riesling of the 2015 Winewise Small Vignerons Awards. It’s an auspicious start for the new Vintner’s Daughter brand. It’s an absolutely delicious riesling, delivering pure, varietal, floral and citrus flavours, cut through with shimmering, fresh acidity. A small amount of residual grape sugar rounds and softens the palate, but it remains fine, delicate, dry and suited to medium-term cellaring.
The Vintner’s Daughter Gewurztraminer 2015 Vintner’s Daughter vineyard, Murrumbateman, Canberra District, NSW $28 The pink-berried gewürztraminer grape is one of several clonal mutations of the very old savagnin vine. It produces distinctly different wine from the other variants, though they have the same genetic fingerprint. Savagnin blanc, for example, makes savoury, taut, dry whites. In contrast, gewürztraminer produces highly aromatic whites with distinctive musk- and lychee-like characters and, quite often, a viscous texture. Stephanie Helm and husband Ben Osborne’s version revels in gewürztraminer’s aromatic qualities, in a very clean and pure but not overwhelming style. The dry palate reflects the aroma and is supported by zippy, fresh acidity.
Logan Shiraz 2013 Orange, NSW $28 The altitude of Orange’s vineyards ranges from 600metres to around 1100 metres, meaning the region suits many grape varieties. Shiraz works well in the lower, warmer sites. But even so, these are cool conditions for the variety and the wines, as Peter Logan’s demonstrates, are spicy and medium bodied rather than burly and bold as they can be in warmer areas. The warm 2013 season gave Logan a particularly juicy, sweet mid palate which, combined with its soft tannins, means easy and delightful drinking now.
Tahbilk Roussanne Marsanne Viognier 2014 Tahbilk vineyard, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria $22–$24 Australia’s marsanne specialist still uses fruit from vines planted in 1927, though the variety was first planted on the property in the 1860s. Recent plantings of marsanne’s Rhone Valley companions, roussanne and viognier, now join it in a three-way blend, led by oak-aged roussanne, which makes up 46 per cent of the blend. The combination yields a full-bodied, richly textured, savoury dry white with an appealing bite to the finish – a characterful white, well removed from our usual fare. The three-way blend seems the way to go with these varieties: marsanne and, even more so, viognier, can be too much on their own; while fairly neutral roussanne has the ability to subdue its raucous Rhone Valley mates.
Bodegas Catena Zapata “Alamos” Malbec 2014 Mendoza, Argentina $18–$20 Watch out Aussie shiraz. Generous, fruity Argentinian malbec provides comparable drink-now appeal, on its own or with food. We discovered Alamos Malbec 2014 on a cool spring afternoon at Hopscotch Bar, Braddon. The wine’s deep colour, vibrant, fruity perfume and flavour, and soft tannins provided joyous drinking for a niece’s thirtieth birthday. The wine, made by the Catena family, comes from high-altitude vineyards in the Andes. Malbec comprises 85 per cent of the blend, with 10 per bonarda and five per cent shiraz. What Argentina calls ‘bonarda’ is, in fact, douce noire, a red variety of France’s Savoie region. It’s Argentina’s second most widely planted red variety after malbec.
Mauro Vannucci Pietranera Toscana 2011 Carmignano, Tuscany, Italy $45 Like cool water, lapping rough, rocky walls, this Tuscan sangiovese’s sweet fruit flavours slap against rustic, mouth-gripping tannins. Deep, savoury flavours and assertive tannins counter every appearance of the fruit, creating a nevertheless harmonious red wine of two distinct parts – fruity and savoury. The rustic, savoury characters set it apart from the fruit-sweet wines we generally make in Australia. And those savoury characters suited the food of Italian and Sons, where we encountered it. The wine comes from Carmignano, to the west of Florence. It’s available by the glass at Italian and Sons or through the Melbourne importer at rossiandriccardo.com.
