Wine review – Estandon, Katnook Estate, Mount Langi Ghiran

Estandon Heritage Cotes de Provence Rosé 2015 $20
The Cotes de Provence part of France’s vast Provence region, specialises in light, soft rosé, which accounts for the great majority of the area’s wine production. The blush-pink colour and delicate, fruity aroma conjure images of summer haze, soft colours, the aroma of wild herbs and simple, fresh Provencal food. The wine sits light, fresh, round and soft on the palate, with a refreshingly fruity-savoury dry finish. It’s a blend of the red varieties grenache, cinsault and syrah – with a splash of white vermentino. The wine’s blush comes from a very brief maceration on skins before the grapes are pressed.

Katnook Estate Founders Block Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 $17.95–$20
Katnook’s wine connection dates from Coonawarra’s first vintage, when industry founder, John Riddoch, processed his 1896 vintage in Katnook’s woolshed. Though now part of Spain’s Freixinet Group, Katnook wines continue to be made by Wayne Stehbens who had his first vintage there in 1979. Coonawarra’s second largest producer shows its class and versatility with this pure and solid expression of the regional cabernet style. It combines cassis- and black-olive-like varietal fruit flavours on a medium-bodied palate, but through with the variety’s assertive, firm tannins. It’s a roast lamb or steak wine for sure and very satisfying.

Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Victoria Shiraz 2013 $17–$20
The Rathbone family’s Mount Langi Ghiran makes delightfully, peppery, fine-boned shiraz in Victoria’s Grampians region. Wines include one of Australia’s most exciting cool-climate shirazes, The Langi ($110–$120) and Cliff Edge ($27–$32, a more affordable yet still excellent example of the regional style. Billi Billi, the lowest priced of Mount Langi’s red, combines shiraz from the Grampians, Swan Hill and Heathcote. It leans more to bright fruit flavours and spice than the peppery, savoury character of the more expensive wines. But it echoes the house style with its medium body and fine, drying tannins.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2016
First published 19 June 2016 in the Canberra Times