Gundaroo’s crunchy cider

If you find the popular apple ciders on tap in bars too sweet, a couple of outlets around town offer the zippier, drier Jolly Miller – made at Gundaroo by Ron Miller.

Miller’s cider making started as a retirement hobby but quickly became a very busy business. He now struggles to meet demand for kegs at Zierholz (Fyshwick), Phoenix (Civic) and at the Wine Bar and Grazing Restaurant in Gundaroo.

Seeking a take-away package, Miller ruled out bottles as impracticable on a small scale. Instead, he opted for five-litre kegs, due for release this week at around $50 retail.

Miller currently uses granny smiths, pink ladies and “whatever else is available”. But an experimental batch made from Kingston Blacks, a specialist cider variety, points to the future. He expects an increased supply next year from Borry Gartrell’s Borrodell orchard at Orange. From these he’ll make a new, top-shelf cider.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Wine review — d’Arenberg, Jim Barry and Innocent Bystander

d’Arenberg Stump Jump Adelaide Hills McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc 2010 $10.79–$11.99
The great flood of New Zealand sauvignon blanc flowing into Australia must scare the pants off Australian winemakers. It’s not just the depressed prices, but also the fact that great swathes of Australian vineyards lie in areas not well suited to producing a competing style. And where we do grow sauvignon blanc well, yields tend to be low and production prices commensurately high. d’Arenberg cleverly leaps this hurdle by blending intensely varietal Adelaide Hills sauvy with presumably cheaper McLaren Vale material. The blend works well, delivering vibrant, fresh passionfruit-like varietal flavour at a competitive price.

Jim Barry Watervale (Clare Valley)

  • Riesling 2010 $14.25–$16.95
  • Lavender Hill Sweet Riesling 2010 $13.45–$14.95

No matter how much we talk up riesling, it remains a stubbornly niche variety delivering wonderful flavours at bargain prices. In this pair, both from the Clare Valley’s Watervale sub-region, we see contrasting sweet and dry styles. The dry version captures the sub-region’s unique lime-like varietal flavours and delicacy. It’s a great aperitif wine, with potential to fill out and take on attractive honeyed flavours with bottle age. Lavender Hill, with 22 grams of residual grape sugar to the litre, shows the regional lime-like flavours but with a considerable sweetness, balanced by crisp, fresh acidity.

Innocent Bystander Victoria Syrah 2009 $16.95–$22.95
Innocent Bystander is the second label of Giant Steps Winery, located at Healesville in Victoria’s Yarra Valley. The appellation “Victoria” simply indicates sourcing from a number of Victorian regions – presumably cooler ones by the style of this very attractive shiraz. If the deep, crimson colour suggests a burly wine, the spicy, savoury aroma immediately points the other way. The palate supports this message with its savoury, slightly funky flavours, and supple, fine-textured, soft tannins – complexities and textures consistent with wild-yeast fermentation in open vats, whole bunches in the ferments and extend pre-fermentation maceration.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Jacques Lurton’s Kangaroo Island adventure

In 2000, renowned French “flying winemaker”, Jacques Lurton, established an 11-hectare vineyard on Kangaroo Island. His business at the time made wine around the world, with Lurton and his winemakers, including Australians, hopping from one country to another.

In 2007 Lurton sold out to his brother and partner to concentrate on his own French and Australian brands. By then, says Lurton, he’d experienced 60 vintages across 25 regions in 10 countries.

An oenology graduate from the University of Bordeaux, Lurton worked initially for his father, a major vineyard owner in Bordeaux. But in1984 he visited Australia for a vintage with McWilliams in Griffith, New South Wales. Then in 1985 he joined Brian Croser at Petaluma in the Adelaide Hills – developing friendships with influential Australian winemakers, including Croser and his then business partner, Dr Tony Jordan.

The Australian connections endured. Over the coming decades Lurton employed 10 Australian flying winemakers, and visited Australia at least once a year from 1984.

In Canberra last week he said because of the strong connection “I decided to make my own investment and, ideally, live half of my time here”. With the help of McLaren Vale based David Paxton, Lurton eventually selected Kangaroo Island.

He subsequently planted 11 hectares to cabernet franc, grenache, shiraz, malbec, viognier, semillon and sangiovese, and established a winery on a site, “about in the middle of the island”.

By the time Lurton parted the flying winemaker business in 2007, he’d acquired from cousins in Bordeaux a six-hectare merlot vineyard, La Martinette. And in the Loire Valley he’d established long-term relationships with sauvignon blanc growers in Touraine and Pouilly.

Therefore the Jacques Lurton brand (see www.jacqueslurton.com) now includes two Loire sauvignon blancs, Touraine Sauvignon and Pouilly Fume; one Bordeaux merlot, Domaine de la Martinette; and a range of Islander Estate Vineyards wines from Kangaroo Island.

Partly because of his Bordeaux background, Lurton selected cabernet franc as a flagship variety, originally to pair it in a blend with sangiovese. He says, “I’ve worked with cabernet franc in the Loire Valley and, in Bordeaux, at St Emilion and also a little bit in Pomerol. It makes fragrant, fresh and elegant wines and they age well”.

As well, he adds it’s tough variety and easy for grape growers to look after. Aptly for Australian growers, it resists heat well, he says, citing its success in Bordeaux’s searingly hot 2003 vintage.

He says cabernet franc originated in Navarra Spain. But it’s now widely planted in south-western France, including Bordeaux, where it’s used mainly as a blending variety — as it is here in Australia.

Kangaroo Island cabernet franc appeals to Lurton because it “avoids the herbaceousness” of the cold-to-marginal Loire climate and cooler Bordeaux vintages.

Lurton’s first flagship Kangaroo Island red in 2004 included a fairly high proportion of sangiovese with the cabernet franc. But observing how the sangiovese matured more rapidly than the cabernet franc, Lurton wound back the sangiovese to just six per cent in the just-released 2005 and even further in subsequent years. There’s also a smidge of malbec in future vintages, he says.

For trademark reasons he also changed the name from Islander Estates Yakka Jack (named after a local soldier settler) to The Investigator, after Matthew Flinders ship, an early white visitor to the island.

In Canberra for the launch last week, Lurton lined up The Investigator 2005 ($60) with three French cabernet francs – giving us a snapshot of very different styles, two from the Loire, the other from St Emilion, Bordeaux.

St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Malgagnes 2006, from a biodynamic vineyard at Bourgueil, Loire Valley, showed cabernet franc’s gently plush, ripe-berry elegance – an otherwise alluring, elegant wine, marred by a touch of brettanomyces (a spoilage yeast).

Chinon Clos de L’Echo (Couly-Dutheil) 2005 bounced in like a heavyweight after the elegant Bourgueil. Densely coloured and opulent of cabernet franc, it showed traces of herbaceousness despite its fifteen per cent alcohol. Lurton attributed this to alcohol extracting unripe tannins from the seeds and skins. But the herbaceousness was a minor blemish in an otherwise delicious, albeit big, wine.

Le Petit Cheval St Emilion Grand Cru 2003, second wine of legendary Chateau Cheval Blanc, supported Lurton’s views on cabernet franc in hot years. His cousin, Pierre, runs Cheval Blanc and in the severe heat of the vintage found little but cabernet franc suitable. The blend ended up at 95 per cent cabernet franc, five per cent merlot – a big shift from the usual 60:40 ratio.

What a wine, though: limpid and complex, combining fully ripe cabernet franc berry character with age and oak – a fragrant, soft, elegant and delightful drink with a distinct Bordeaux stamp, despite the heat.

And finally, to Lurton’s The Investigator 2005 – a limpid, bright, youthfully coloured wine, featuring fragrant, ripe-berry varietal character, soft, gentle palate and elegant, persistent tannin structure. It’s an exciting wine indeed, based on one quick tasting. We’ll review it fully after we can put it to the full-bottle test.

The Investigator and other Jacques Lurton wines, including Old Rowley, reviewed today, are distributed in Canberra by Bill Mason’s Z4 group.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Wine review — Alkoomi, Kalleske, Campbells, Ross Hill, The Islander Estate and Castello di Romitorio

Alkoomi Jarrah Shiraz 2007 $39–$44.69
Frankland River, Great Southern, Western Australia
Because shiraz reveals its beauty in so many different ways in Australia, it’s become our signature variety. Alkoomi’s wonderful flagship – named for the towering jarrah trees (eucalyptus marginata) native to the area – comes from a gravelly site planted to vines over 40 years ago. This is deeply layered, elegant shiraz of a rare dimension – built on intense, varietal cherry-and-spice flavours, bound by fine, soft oak and fruit tannins. It’s an understated wine of many parts, in perfect harmony, looking youthful at four years and destined for a long cellar life.

Kalleske Clarry’s Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2010 $16.20–$180
Barossa Valley, South Australia
The Kalleske family settled in the Barossa in the mid nineteenth century and today sixth generation Troy Kalleske makes the wine named for his grandfather, Clarry. Clarry tended the vines from the 1920s to the 1990s. It’s a luxurious, friendly blend – highly aromatic and densely packed with juicy, vibrant mouth-watering fruit flavours. Grenache probably contributes the floral aromatic high notes, while shiraz and mataro (aka mourvedre) contribute body and tannin structure respectively. It’s a rollicking regional specialty to enjoy over the next four or five years.

Campbells Pedro Ximenez 1997 $35
Rutherglen, Victoria
A glass of the lovely, delicate 1991 vintage prompted last week’s feature story on Campbell’s unique dry white – made from Spanish sherry variety, pedro ximenez. A week later samples arrived: the not-yet-released 2007 vintage, under both cork and screwcap, and the currently available, at cellar door, 2004 ($25.90) and 1997 ($35). The small tasting revealed a journey from tartness and austerity in the 2007, to the fresh, delicate honey notes of 2004, to the still fresh, but mellow, richer, toast-and-honey of the 1997. It’s a curio, for sure, but a delightful one enjoyed by most people at the tasting.

Ross Hill Chardonnay 2009 $27–30
Orange, New South Wales
Terri and Peter Robson established Ross Hill in 1994 and planted chardonnay on their home block in 1996. In 2008 Greg and Kim Jones joined the business “to build the Ross Hill winery and plant further, higher elevation vines on the slopes of Mount Canobolas”. Winemaker Phil Kearney then joined the team, and in 2009 produced the first wines to be made on-site. The wines include this wild-yeast, barrel-fermented chardonnay from the home block – a rich, bright, fine-textured chardonnay with a core of sweet, nectarine-like varietal flavour, looking very young at two years.

The Islander Estate Vineyards Old Rowley 2006 $37
Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Frenchman Jacque Lurton grows and makes his grenache, shiraz, viognier blend on an 11-hectare vineyard, planted on Kangaroo Island in 2000. It’s a surprisingly fine, elegant and savoury wine, given the blend – so often in Australia grenache tends to a musky, even confectionary character; and the white viognier can be intensely apricot-like and oily textured. Instead we have a lighter coloured red, of light to medium body with a lean, savoury, spicy palate and persistent, fine, tannic finish.

Rosso di Montalcino (Castello di Romitorio) 2007 $38.50–$54.99
Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy
This is sort of uber Chianti – a magnificent, elegant red made from the sangiovese grosso variety, grown at Montalcino, near Sienna, Tuscany. Brunello di Montalcino, also made from sangiovese grosso, is one of Italy’s great wines and Rosso di Montalcino is its slightly lesser cellar mate. The colour’s medium and limpid and already showing signs of age ¬– though this is common for sangiovese. The aroma and palate, though, are all excitement with sweet, tobacco-like, earthy and gamey flavours underlying a firm, sinewy tannin structure. It’s an elegant, unique wine that grows in interest and, suddenly, regrettably, the bottle’s empty.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Beer review — Wig & Pen and Sierra Nevada

Wig and Pen Venom Imperial Ale half-pint $6
Choose your poison? It’s a hard call at the Wig – so many stunningly good brews. But this week it’s Venom: seduced by the estery, apricot-like aroma, then totally won over by a fleshy, velvety, luxurious palate and exciting interplay of unctuous malt and intensely bitter hops.

Sierra Nevada Porter 350ml $6.90
What a beaut porter this is from the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company in Chico, California. The aroma and palate reveal rich, roasted malt character – reminiscent of dark chocolate and toffee. It weighs in at a solid 5.6 per cent alcohol, but it’s lively and balanced on the palate with a refreshing chocolaty, bitter finish.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Creative genius at Canberra’s Wig & Pen

The creative genius of brewer Richard Watkins puts Canberra’s Wig and Pen brewpub in a category of its own. Few small breweries in the world could match the diversity and quality of beer currently on tap there.

On a recent visit, the Wig offered 15 beers and an apple cider, all made in the tiny cellars.

To the core of regular beers, Watkins frequently adds seasonal specialties. Most excitingly, there’s a growing range of specialty ales fermented and matured in oak barrels – inspired partly by Watkins’ recent visit to classic European breweries.

The three just released “Brewer’s Stash” ales, all served in brandy balloons, are simply sensational – albeit idiosyncratic styles to sip and admire.

Big Ass Barley Wine (one year in barrel) offers sumptuous, toffee-like malt flavours balanced by hops bitterness. Lunch with the Monks (six months in barrel), inspired by Belgium’s Triple style, is complex, sweet-malt and buoyantly fruity. And Bob’s Armpit (eight months in barrel), modelled on Orval, is an intriguing sweet and sour beer brewed with yeast and a cocktail of bacteria.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Wine reviews — Kirrihill, d’Arenberg and Henschke

Kirrihill Single Vineyard series $15.25–$16.95

  • Clare Valley Slate Creek Riesling 2010
  • Adelaide Hills Serendipity Pinot Grigio 2010
  • Adelaide Hills Barton Springs Sauvignon Blanc 2010

There’s great value in these single-vineyard whites made by Donna Stephens. The riesling, sourced from 30-year-old vines in Watervale, southern Clare Valley, offers full, rich lemony flavours with lively, delicate, refreshing acidity. The sauvignon blanc, from the higher cooler Adelaide Hills to the south of Clare, delivers sauvignon’s familiar herbaceous flavours and little more text and grip than we see in most. Pinot gris, also from the Adelaide Hills, is more spicy and pear-like in flavour, backed by a textural richness, courtesy of extended contact on yeast lees.

d’Arenberg McLaren Vale The Stump Jump range  $10.75–$11.95

  • Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2009
  • Shiraz 2009
  • Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

d’Arenberg’s Stump Jump range delivers true regional flavours at a modest price. They’re ready to drink now, but more complex than most reds you’ll find at the price. In the blend Grenache gives a lighter colour and fragrant high notes, shiraz adds a solid, earthy flavour and richness and mourvedre contributes spice and grippy tannins. The shiraz is all McLaren Vale – its varietal fruitiness wrapped in savoury tannins, managing to be full flavoured but not plump, and finishing fairly firm. The cabernet, too, is purely varietal with its tight, lean-but-tasty palate and firm, tannic finish.

Henschke Barossa Henry’s Seven 2009 $30.60–$34

This juicy and lovely wine combines shiraz, grenache, viognier and mourvedre – seemingly a blend of blends, combining two distinct Rhone valley styles. In the northern Rhone’s Cote Rotie area, co-fermented shiraz and viognier (a white variety) produce one of the world’s great red styles – shiraz of great fragrance and finesse. Canberra’s Clonakilla is modelled on this style. Further south, grenache, shiraz and mourvedre dominate earthier, medium bodied, multi-varietal blends. In Henry’s Seven, Stephen Henschke captures the high toned fragrance and plump fruitiness of viognier and grenache, but tempers it with the more savoury character of shiraz and spicy grippiness of mourvedre.

Follow me on Twitter @ChateauShanahan

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

 

Such tweet wine

A few weeks back an American bloke, Rick Bakas, wandered around Australian wine regions looking like he couldn’t believe his own good luck. Feted by the media and trade, Bakas sipped his way through the Hunter, Barossa and Yarra valleys, leading a series of global Tweet-ups.

He’s a guru, apparently, billed by Wine Communicators of Australia Inc as “one of the world’s foremost social media experts” and “a leader in wine communications in the digital age”.

The hype set off our sceptometer. But it also kindled our curiosity. Could social media, especially Twitter, really help take Australian wine to the world ­– or even to other Australians?

The answer, say several wineries and marketers, is yes, definitely. But like any facet of marketing, to succeed it needs to be part of a structure that ultimately delivers people what they want.

An instigator of the “Tweet-ups”, Trish Barry, of Mastermind Consulting, views the Bakas visit as a catalyst, fusing together a train of international activity. Importantly, says Barry, the activities led directly to sales of Hunter, Barossa and Yarra wines across the USA and sparked a possibly long tail of enquiries about these unique regional specialties.

Since creating awareness of Australian regional wine styles is the industry’s holy grail (major export markets know little or nothing of Australian wine regions) the value of this sort of activity could be significant.

Barry says the raw figures of the Tweet-ups tell only part of the story. It’s impressive that 2.92 million people followed the tour on Twitter. And it’s impressive, too, that 1,022 individuals tweeted 6,381 times.

But the true marketing success story lies in how Bakas and the Australian organisers lined up their ducks – who they recruited to the cause and, of crucial importance, their involvement of American retailer, Wholefood Markets.

They recruited Bakas, says Barry, because of his reach and influence among wine drinkers in the USA. Importantly, Bakas’s 50,000 Twitter followers and 5,000 Facebook friends included a number of other influential Twitterers and bloggers.

With help from Bakas and other sources, the Australian team identified then recruited several influential digital commentators – bypassing mainstream wine critics, including the influential Robert M. Parker. They then sent samples of regional wines and tasting notes in preparation for the Australian tastings.

Bakas also helped bring Wholefood Markets to the party. Unlike Australia’s large liquor retailers, says Barry, Wholefoods embraces social media. And with 1.8 million Twitter followers and 500 thousand Facebook friends, they began promoting Yarra, Barossa and Hunter wines ahead of the tweet-ups down under.

Barry says the retail connection completed the cycle: producers brought wines to the regional tastings and the tweets flowed freely. The tweets created interest in the regions and wines. And wine drinkers interested in the regions were able to buy at Wholefood outlets.

The tour lasted about two weeks. But the tweet-ups and associated master classes on YouTube continue to generate enquiries direct to producers from American retailers, restaurants and consumers, says Barry – setting the scent for long-term commercial connections.

Barry laments the absence of a major retailer in the Australian social-media scene. She says last year’s rose revolution – a Twitter campaign led by De Bortoli and joined by eighty wineries, including five from Canberra – created significant consumer interest in high-quality, dry roses.

The increased consumer interest drove significant sales in participating wineries and restaurants. De Bortolis reportedly sold a year’s supply in three months. But retailers missed the opportunity, probably disappointing some of their customers as well.

Jennie Mooney, the marketing voice of Canberra’s Capital Wines, says Twitter delivers huge benefits for her business. In a recent Wine Business Monthly article, she tore into Professor Larry Lockshin, head of UniSA’s marketing school, for his article, “Anti-social media”, published in the October 2010 edition.

Mooney says Lockshin had argued that Twitter was mainly about the trade talking to each other. It was therefore a substitute for traditional communications channels and not good for generating new buyers.

Mooney countered this with, “I’m trade and I buy wine – don’t other wineries buy wine too? I have also made a lot of friends on Twitter. Wineries, restaurants and others right across Australia; right across the world actually! By getting to know restaurateurs via Twitter, we are not just another winery making cold calls to their restaurant.

Most of our stockists came from Twitter – certainly all of our interstate restaurants, our east coast distributor and our Western Australian distributor are all new buyers due to Twitter. As well as trade, we have lots of consumers buying our wine and new members in our cellar club. I have sent our wine to people around the world and am in the process of talking to several potential distributors regarding export. October sales from Twitter were just over 3 pallets, which is significant for a small winery like ours”.

Mooney also talks at length of the power Twitter gives her to build direct relationships and trust with customers – and in the turn the direct voice this gives to her customers. These sentiments were echoed, too, by David Brookes, marketing manager of Teusner Wines, Barossa Valley, and Leanne De Bortoli, a principal of De Bortoli, Yarra Valley.

These wineries all agree, too, that Twitter isn’t a magic bullet. It’s just part of the marketing mix. For a tiny winery like Capital Wines, it’s a big part of the mix; and for a large operator like De Bortoli, a small but growing part.

Several marketers and wineries also agreed that Twitter leans more to business than private use, though many individuals participate by following others or tweeting their own views.

Trish Barry says the average age of Twitter users is 39 and users tend to be people who were early adopters of Facebook. One recent estimate, based on Google analysis, puts the number of active, unique Twitter users in Australia at 1.1 million – far short of our 9.4 million Facebook users.

This suggests the majority of readers of this column use Facebook but few use Twitter. In all likelihood, then, most of us missed all the recent chirping from the Barossa, Yarra and Hunter valleys. But whether we tweet or not, it’s there, it’s growing and it gives us direct access to people who grow and make wine for us.

@ChateauShanahan

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Wine review — Brindabella Hills, Simmonet-Febvre, Greywacke, Henschke, Bremerton and Alkoomi

Brindabella Hills Shiraz 2009 $30
Hall, Canberra District, Australian Capital Territory
Can wine resemble its maker? It’s a far-fetched notion, perhaps. But Brindabella Hills shiraz shares a gentle understatement with its creator, Roger Harris. And the wonderful 2009 vintage seems even gentler and more understated than usual. The aroma’s sweet, fragrant and floral with a spicy edge that carries through to the bright, soft, sweet, gentle palate. This is pure, cool-grown shiraz from one of Canberra’s lowest, warmest sites – a wine that grows in interest for days after opening the bottle. Harris’s reserve shiraz 2008 ($35) offers a fuller, slightly firmer variation on the gentle theme.

Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons (Simmonet-Febvre) 2007 $39.80–$41.90
Vaillons vineyard, Chablis, France
Chablis, the northernmost vineyard of France’s Burgundy region, lies at a chilly 48 degrees north. Its distinctive, flinty, dust-dry chardonnays – generally unoaked and instantly recognisable in masked tastings – offer some of the best value drinking on the planet. Thankfully they haven’t hit the stellar prices fetched by the fuller, riper styles made in Burgundy proper. Simmonet-Febvre’s version, imported by Woolworths, delivers all that’s good in this great regional style. Pure, flinty, minerally and succulently bone dry, it’s the perfect oyster wine, although versatile with food. Under French law the name “Chablis” indicates not only the region of origin but also the grape variety, chardonnay.

Greywacke Pinot Noir 2009 $40–$45
Marlborough, New Zealand
As winemaker at Selaks from 1983, Kevin Judd made some of the first New Zealand sauvignon blancs destined for Canberra, under the Selaks and Farmer Brothers labels. Judd later joined David Hohnen at Cloudy Bay, the brand that sold the sizzle of Marlborough sauvignon blanc to the world – and later developed a superb pinot noir. After 25 vintages at Cloudy Bay, Judd left and launched his Greywacke label, based on mature vines on the southern side of Marlborough’s Wairau Valley. All that experience comes to bear in this fragrant, medium bodied, elegant, luxuriously textured pinot.

Henschke Peggy’s Hill Riesling 2010 $15–$22
Eden Valley, South Australia
Eden Valley’s roller coaster 2010 vintage swung from cold to heat and wet to dry. Ultimately, write Prue and Stephen Henschke, “Lower yields coupled with mild ripening period resulted in incredibly concentrated fruit. The signature varieties of the Eden Valley, riesling and shiraz, once again produced exceptional quality with great acid balance”. The Henschkes source grapes for Peggy’s Hill (named for an Eden Valley landmark) from local growers. The wine offers pure, floral and citrus aromas and a zesty, dry palate, saturated with lemon and lime varietal flavours. This is one to enjoy any time over the next ten years.

Bremerton Verdelho 2010 $16–$18
Langhorne Creek, South Australia
Next sauvignon blanc occasion, try verdelho from one of Australia’s warm growing regions. These areas can’t succeed in a sauvy shoot out with cool Marlborough or the Adelaide Hills. But verdelho, first planted in Langhorne Creek in the mid nineteenth century, adapted well to Australian conditions. It retains good acidity in the heat and makes delicious, crisp full-flavoured dry whites. Like sauv blanc, it’s racy and fresh but has what I call a “sappy” note rather then herbaceous and tropical fruit characters. The Wilson family’s Bremerton is an excellent example of the style. Rebecca Wilson made it using only free-run juice from grapes grown on the family vineyard.

Alkoomi Shiraz 2009 $14.30–$15.89
Frankland River, Great Southern, Western Australia
Alkoomi – a 110-hectare estate at Frankland River in Western Australia’s Great Southern region – makes a typically Australian wide range of wine styles. But its best to me are shiraz and riesling. Even their entry-level shiraz bears the regional style stamp – closer to the refined Canberra style than it is to brawny Barossa, but still its own beast. Like Canberra shiraz it’s limpid and medium bodied and based on vibrant berry flavours; unlike the Canberra style, there’s a deep, savoury vein and an associated tight, tannic structure.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011

Beer review — Moa and Daleside

Moa Noir Very Rare Beer 375ml $5.90
Moa Noir is brewed in Blenheim, Marlborough, the heart of New Zealand’s sauvignon blanc country. It’s a strong, dark ale featuring flavours reminiscent of chocolate and roasted coffee beans. The palate, however, has a refreshing lightness to it and it finishes dry and bitter.

Daleside Pride of England Beer 500ml $8.20
From Harrogate, North Yorkshire, Pride of England is a mid-alcohol (four per cent), medium bodied pale golden ale, built for warm weather refreshment. It provides an attractive balance of fruitiness, smooth malt and refreshing, lingering hops bitterness, without any single element dominating the mix.

Copyright © Chris Shanahan 2011