All Saints Estate Rutherglen Marsanne 2010 $18.70–$22 The Rhone Valley white varieties seem a better bet than chardonnay for full-bodied dry whites in warm regions like Rutherglen. All Saints makes two versions – the richer, fuller, barrel fermented Family Cellar ($30) and this stainless steel fermented version featuring the variety’s bright citrus flavours. Early picking … Continue reading Wine review — All Saints, Moorilla and Seville Estate →

Peter Lehmann Barossa Portrait Semillon 2011 $18 Peter Lehmann Barossa Margaret Semillon 2006 $25.65–$32 In the late 1990s Peter Lehmann winemaker, Andrew Wigan, moved away from ripe, oak-fermented semillon styles to an earlier-picked, fresher unwooded style. The lighter, fresher, lower alcohol wines appealed to wine drinkers. Lehmann recently released two versions of the style. Portrait … Continue reading Wine review — Peter Lehmann, Squitchy Lane and Zema Estate →

Cumulus Orange Shiraz 2009 $30 Unlike Canberra where shiraz and riesling have become our signature varieties, the even higher, cooler Orange district seems to make a bit of everything, with no clear regional hero emerging – though chardonnay is, perhaps, the strongest contender to date. I’ve seen some decent shirazes, too, including Cumulus, sourced from … Continue reading Wine review — Cumulus, Lerida Estate and Anderson →

Capital Wines Reserve Shiraz 2010 $52 Kyeema vineyard, Murrumbateman, Canberra District, New South Wales Capital Wines is about to release its Frontbencher Shiraz 2010 ($25) – with today’s wine of the week to follow in March. The former is simply delicious – a fine-boned, spicy shiraz to enjoy now, and, to me, the best yet … Continue reading Wine review — Capital Wines, De Bortoli, Hungerford Hill, Riposte and Mud House →

Seppelt St Peters Shiraz 2008 $52.25–$69 St Peters Vineyard, Grampians, Victoria Legendary winemaker, Colin Preece, managed Seppelt’s Great Western cellars from 1932 to 1963. Although perhaps more famous for his sparkling reds than still table wines, Preece made glorious long-lived reds from the old shiraz vines that still surround the winery. I suspect he’d approve … Continue reading Wine review — Seppelt, Pol Roger, Majella, Curly Flat, Penfolds and Grosset →

Chrismont King Valley La Zona Prosecco NV $22 In 2007 Arnie and Jo Pizzini planted the Italian white variety, prosecco, in their vineyard at Cheshunt, in Victoria’s King Valley. With it they emulate the light, delicate dry sparkling wines made with the variety in northeastern Italy. La Zona starts as a still table wine matured … Continue reading Wine review — Chrismont, Kingston Estate and Pizzini →

Cofield Provincial Parcel Beechworth Chardonnay 2009 $36 Beechworth, Victoria There’s a stylistic salute to Rick Kinsbrunner’s legendary Giaconda chardonnay in Damien Cofield’s first vintage from the region. The salute includes the notable influence of barrel fermentation and maturation, minerality, finesse, flavour intensity and deep, smooth texture. This is a striking and lovable chardonnay, looking young … Continue reading Wine review — Cofield, Tscharke, Rutherglen Estates, Alkoomi, Mitolo and Domain A →