No vintage is all bad or all good. Even in the current cool, wet, mildew-riddled season endured by Canberra vignerons, bright spots and hope remain among the devastation, albeit with an anxious eye on the weather. After a decade-long run of hot, early vintages, Canberra looks distinctly cool climate in 2011, with harvest times likely … Continue reading Canberra vintage begins with an anxious eye on the sky
Philip Shaw The Architect Chardonnay 201 $20 Koomooloo vineyard, Orange, New South Wales It takes just a few sips of “The Architect” to see why Orange and chardonnay intersect. The area’s cooler sites produce pristine, intense varietal flavours. And, as Philip Shaw demonstrates, these flavours can be captured and delivered for our pleasure at a … Continue reading Wine review — Philip Shaw, Penfolds, Punt Road and Helm
Price seems always at the heart of any new release of Penfolds much-loved, highly traded bin number wines. Fierce retail battles became part of the landscape from the late seventies, following the collapse of retail price maintenance. In recent years, however, a reticence to be first to cut means a little retail shadow boxing precedes … Continue reading They’ve Bin everywhere — Penfolds releases new reds
Over the last few decades the boasting theme of Australian wine show organisers changed fundamentally. “My show’s bigger than yours” gave way to “mine’s better than yours”. Canberra’s National Show, held each November, boasted longest and strongest across those decades. It billed itself as the grand final – the last major show of the year, … Continue reading How Winewise beat National Wine Show to the punch
In December 2010 Philip Laffer handed the winemaking reins of Jacob’s Creek to Bernard Hickin. But Laffer, now 70, retains a globe-travelling role with Jacob’s Creek’s French owner, Pernod-Ricard, giving valuable advice to the company’s winemaking enterprises in Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Spain and France. Laffer’s career spans, on a large scale, every imaginable aspect … Continue reading Philip Laffer — wine industry builder and expander
Tahbilk Marsanne 2010 $13.00–$16.45 Nagambie Lakes, Victoria In the me-too line up on most retail shelves, Tahbilk marsanne stands out. It’s become a signature wine style for Tahbilk and under Alister Purbrick (his great grandfather bought the already established property in 1925) the style has become finer. Marsanne, a Rhone Valley white variety, tends to … Continue reading Wine review — Tahbilk, Leo Buring, Shingleback Red Knot, Wynns Coonawarra Estate and Pipers Brook
St Hallett Barossa Valley Faith Shiraz 2008 $12.80–$16 St Hallett, now part of Lion Nathan, continues to produce high-quality Barossa wines like the big, juicy, tender Faith shiraz. The grapes going into Faith come from around the Barossa and include components from the cooler Lyndoch Valley, at the Barossa’s southern end, and the elevated Eden … Continue reading Wine review — St Hallett, Jim Barry and De Bortoli
Canberra and surrounding districts fared sensationally well in this year’s National Wine Show of Australia, judged between 15 and 18 November. By my count, local wines won 31 awards – one trophy, 13 gold medals, four silver medals and 13 bronze medals. The tally includes wines from most of the regions covered by the Canberra … Continue reading Canberra wines fare well at National Wine Show of Australia
Cape Grace Margaret River Chenin Blanc 2010 $20 Shiraz 2007 $34 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 $48 We recently visited Cape Grace Wines, a 6.5-hectare estate established by Robert and Karen Karri-Davies at Wilyabrup, Margaret River, in 1996. Robert looks after the vineyard, Karen the marketing and contract winemaker Mark Messenger makes the wines on site. Their … Continue reading Wine review — Cape Grace, Langmeil and Zema Estate
Bress Cider Brut 750ml $20 Harcourt Valley, Central Victoria Emulating the cider makers of Normandy, Adam Marks and Lynne Jensen, bottle ferment their ciders to a wine-like 10 per cent alcohol. They use the specialty cider varieties Kingston Black and Bulmers Norman, in conjunction with Pink Lady and a touch of Perry pears. Bottle fermentation … Continue reading Wine review — Bress, Petaluma, Wolf Blass, Rochford, Hewitson and Zema