The Rhone Valley white variety, viognier, is and will remain a niche variety, representing around two per cent of total white plantings in Australia. Nevertheless, it remains an important variety, principally because of its close relationship to our national red hero, shiraz. The relationship is both genetic and vinous. In Wine Grapes (Penguin Group, 2012), … Continue reading Viognier — genetic and vinous buddy of shiraz
The recent release of Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace at record prices raises the age-old question of what they’re really worth. The short answer is, they’re worth what people pay for them. And as Penfolds and Henschke sell out every year, the answer has to be that they’re not overpriced, notwithstanding substantial domestic … Continue reading Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill of Grace – investing a tricky business
This story of oysters and wine links France’s Languedoc coast to Bateman’s Bay, half a world away, and to Cowra, on the warm floor of the west-flowing Lachlan River. The man joining the dots is Steve Feletti, owner of Moonlight Flat Oysters, Bateman’s Bay. His website borrows the language of wine – “Just like premium … Continue reading Piquepoul and the oyster man
Grant Burge Meshach 2008 $124–$180 Filsell and other vineyards, Barossa Valley On a visit to Canberra in April, Barossa winemaker Grant Burge said warm climate shiraz seemed to be off the radar of many wine judges and some wine shows. This appears to be a fashion statement, he said, and completely out of touch with … Continue reading Wine review — Grant Burge, Andrew Thomas, Tyrrell’s, Jacob’s Creek, Dandelion and Brown Brothers
d’Arenberg Footbolt McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 $18–$20 The wine bears the name of Footbolt, a racehorse whose success helped Joseph Osborn purchase d’Arenberg’s first vineyard in 1912. Osborn’s descendants, d’Arry and son, Chester, continue to run the business. The Footbolt remains one of Australia’s big-value wines. It offers robust McLaren Vale shiraz flavour and savouriness, … Continue reading Wine review — d’Arenberg, Riddoch and Grant Burge
Penfolds 2013 release of its much-loved “Bin” wines includes two whites from the outstanding 2012 vintage and nine reds from the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages. The reds remain the most traded of any in the country and are the foundation of many Australian cellars. And the whites, though they live in the shadow of … Continue reading Penfolds 2013 Bin releases – 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages
Printhie MCC Shiraz 2011 $36 Printhie Phalaris vineyard, Orange, NSW Some time back, vignerons in Orange, NSW, nominated sauvignon blanc as their hero variety. But Printhie’s Dave Swift puts shiraz and chardonnay at the top of the regional pile. He writes, “These are the varieties that are proving to be the region’s best performers”. Shiraz … Continue reading Wine review — Printhie, Brokenwood, Xanadu and Kate Hill
Nick O’Leary Canberra District Shiraz 2011 $28 Local winemaker Nick O’Leary’s 2011 shiraz impressed when he released it last year. Then in a masked tasting a few weeks back it vied for top spot among tasters alongside O’Leary’s new flagship red, the $55 a bottle Bolaro Shiraz 2011. They’re both wonderful, distinctively-Canberra wines, the Bolaro … Continue reading Wine review — Nick O’Leary, Peter Lehmann and Mr Riggs
Masked tastings became part of my life 36 years ago when I joined the liquor trade. The tastings take many forms, involving anything from one or two wines, to competitive wine games, right through to judging hundreds of wines over several days. Retailing and tasting brought me into contact with many wine lovers outside the … Continue reading Masked tastings – the palate stripped bare
Depending on how you view wine shows, Canberra region is either blessed or burdened with a disproportionate number of nationally significant events. These include the National Wine Show of Australia, Winewise Small Vignerons Awards, Winewise Championship, Canberra International Riesling Challenge and Canberra Regional Wine Show. The national show, billed as the grand final of Australia’s … Continue reading Winewise championship — Australia’s grand final wine show