Wine review – McWilliams Tumbarumba, Shaw Vineyard Estate, The Vintner’s Daughter, McKellar Ridge

McWilliams Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 Rob Parke’s Glenburnie vineyard, Tumbarumba, NSW $40 At last year’s Canberra and Region Wine Show, Tumbarumba region bagged 14 of the 17 medals awarded to chardonnays from the 2015 and earlier vintages. This silver medallist from the show, made by Andrew Higgins, captures the intense varietal flavour of cool-grown chardonnay fermented … Continue reading Wine review – McWilliams Tumbarumba, Shaw Vineyard Estate, The Vintner’s Daughter, McKellar Ridge

Wine review – Clonakilla, Summerhill Road, McWilliams Tumbarumba, Long Rail Gully

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2015 Clonakilla vineyard, Murrumbateman, Canberra District $96 Even among all the sensational 2015 vintage Canberra shirazes, Clonakilla’s flagship shiraz viognier retains its number one position. Three times in the past four months it topped tastings I attended. Away from the austerity of the tasting bench, it seduced and thrilled recently at Aubergine … Continue reading Wine review – Clonakilla, Summerhill Road, McWilliams Tumbarumba, Long Rail Gully

Wine reviews – McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Long Rail Gully, Capital Wines

McWilliams Mount Pleasant Cellar Aged Hunter Semillon 2007 $17–$20 One of the best wines encountered over the festive season cost a mere $17, despite coming up for its ninth birthday, and having been perfectly cellared before release. Mt Pleasant Elizabeth held its own against many considerably more expensive whites. And every mouthful thrilled, almost distracting … Continue reading Wine reviews – McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Long Rail Gully, Capital Wines

Wine reviews – Hahndorf Hill, Twelve Signs, Parker Coonawarra Estate, Mount Langi Ghiran, Mitchell, McWilliams

Hahndorf Hill Winery “Gru” Gruner Veltliner 2015 Hahndorf Hill vineyard, Adelaide Hills, South Australia $28 Hahndorf Hill owners Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson identified a fit between Austria’s late-ripening gruner veltliner and their elevated, continental-climate vineyard site in the Adelaide Hills. In Austria, they write, “vignerons all place huge emphasis on one crucial quality-defining factor … Continue reading Wine reviews – Hahndorf Hill, Twelve Signs, Parker Coonawarra Estate, Mount Langi Ghiran, Mitchell, McWilliams

Wine review – McWilliams, De Bortoli, Jacob’s Creek, Penny’s Hill, Leo Buring, Bream Creek

McWilliams Appellation Series Syrah 2014 Canberra District, NSW $21.80–$25 Last year McWilliams launched their “appellation” range, devoted to wines from the southern NSW high country. But the company staked its first major claim in the region in the 1980s when it acquired Young’s (now Hilltops region) oldest vineyard, Barwang, from the Robertson family. The new … Continue reading Wine review – McWilliams, De Bortoli, Jacob’s Creek, Penny’s Hill, Leo Buring, Bream Creek

Wine review — Devil’s Corner, Holm Oak, McWilliams, Mr Riggs and Port Phillip Estate

Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir 2011 $14.95–$21.90 East Coast and Tamar Valley, Tasmania It takes grapes grown in suitably cool climates to make ripe and tasty but elegant wines. This rationale, applied particularly to pinot noir and chardonnay, led Brown Brothers of Milawa, Victoria, to buy Tamar Ridge, Tasmania, from Gunns in 2010. The purchase gave … Continue reading Wine review — Devil’s Corner, Holm Oak, McWilliams, Mr Riggs and Port Phillip Estate

Wine review — Freeman, Soumah, Greywacke, A Retief, De Bortoli Windy Peak and McWilliams Hanwood

Freeman Rondinella Corvina Secco 2008 $30 Freeman Vineyards, Hilltops, NSW In 1999 Dr Brian Freeman established near Young several blocks of vineyards totalling 40 hectares. He included in the vineyard rondinella and corvina, the red varieties behind Verona’s famous red, Valpolicella, and its illustrious offshoot, Amarone, made from dried berries. A decade ago Freeman launched … Continue reading Wine review — Freeman, Soumah, Greywacke, A Retief, De Bortoli Windy Peak and McWilliams Hanwood

Wine review — Four Winds, Tintilla Estate, McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Mount Eyre, Hill-Smith Estate and Yering Station

Four Winds Vineyard Riesling 2011 $17 Four Winds vineyard, Murrumbateman, Canberra District, New South Wales This gold medal winner from the 2011 regional wine show could easily pass as a Mosel. The low alcohol (10 per cent), delicate lime-like flavour and high acidity move it way beyond the spectrum of flavours we normally see in … Continue reading Wine review — Four Winds, Tintilla Estate, McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Mount Eyre, Hill-Smith Estate and Yering Station

Wine review — Pizzini, McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Tim Adams and Grosset

Pizzini King Valley Sangiovese Shiraz 2009 $17.50–$19 Il Barone 2006 $40–$43 Fred and Katrina Pizzini’s vineyards, in Victoria’s King Valley, reflect the family’s Italian heritage. They offer straight Italian varietals, but sometimes blend Italian grape varieties with old Australian favourites, of French origin. These are Italian in style, with an Aussie accent. In the sangiovese … Continue reading Wine review — Pizzini, McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Tim Adams and Grosset

Wine review — St Hugo, Grossett, McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Chapel Hill, Quinta das Stencostas and Bremerton

Jacob’s Creek St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 2007  $33–$50 Coonawarra, South Australia Cabernet sauvignon has been called the king of grapes; but never the queen. Anthropomorphically speaking, it’s a commanding, manly variety, personified by St Hugo – a solid, square-jawed, broad-shouldered, unapologetic Don Draper of a red, bristling with five-o’clock-shadow tannins. Like Draper, though, it charms … Continue reading Wine review — St Hugo, Grossett, McWilliams Mount Pleasant, Chapel Hill, Quinta das Stencostas and Bremerton