Andrew Thomas Kiss Shiraz 2011 $60 Pokolbin Estate vineyard, Hunter Valley, NSW Andrew Thomas released four Hunter shirazes this month, each outstanding in its own way. But none matches the dimension of Kiss, Thomas’s flagship from a vineyard planted in 1969. The wine presents another unique, and idiosyncratic, face of Australian shiraz, far removed, say, … Continue reading Wine review — Andrew Thomas, Tyrrell’s, Hewitson, Half Moon, Scarborough and Vasse Felix →

Grant Burge Meshach 2008 $124–$180 Filsell and other vineyards, Barossa Valley On a visit to Canberra in April, Barossa winemaker Grant Burge said warm climate shiraz seemed to be off the radar of many wine judges and some wine shows. This appears to be a fashion statement, he said, and completely out of touch with … Continue reading Wine review — Grant Burge, Andrew Thomas, Tyrrell’s, Jacob’s Creek, Dandelion and Brown Brothers →

Brookland Valley Verse 1 Margaret River Chardonnay 2012 $13–$15 When a company makes cutting edge top-shelf wine, the quality usually flows down to cheaper wines in its portfolio. We can taste this deliciously in Verse1 Chardonnay, little sibling of the far more expensive Brookland Valley Chardonnay and relative of several other classy chardonnays (including Eileen … Continue reading Wine review — Brookland Valley, Two Churches and Bussell →

Lerida Estate Shiraz Viognier $49.50 Lake George, Canberra District, NSW Lerida’s elegant, restrained 2010 shiraz viognier follows the more opulent highly acclaimed 2009 vintage. The two wines share a regional spiciness, medium body and fine, smooth texture. But in the 2010 an appealing black pepper character, an endearing element in many cool-grown shirazes, adds to … Continue reading Wine review — Lerida Estate, Clonakilla, Josef Chromy, d’Arenberg and Riddoch →

Printhie MCC Shiraz 2011 $36 Printhie Phalaris vineyard, Orange, NSW Some time back, vignerons in Orange, NSW, nominated sauvignon blanc as their hero variety. But Printhie’s Dave Swift puts shiraz and chardonnay at the top of the regional pile. He writes, “These are the varieties that are proving to be the region’s best performers”. Shiraz … Continue reading Wine review — Printhie, Brokenwood, Xanadu and Kate Hill →

Jim Barry Lodge Hill Clare Valley Riesling 2012 $21–$23 Jim Barry’s Lodge Hill riesling won gold and an armful of trophies in Canberra’s 2012 National Wine Show of Australia. So, should we fall down in awe, worship at its feet? We picnicked with a bottle and pretty ordinary seafood behind the Yarralumla yacht club. The … Continue reading Wine review — Jim Barry, Freeman Vineyards and Stella Bella →

Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Hill and Valley Semillon 2012 $22 Peter Lehmann’s new Barossa semillon offers light, fresh lemony varietal flavours on a delicate, soft, delicious, dry palate. It’s a unique dry white, softer and more approachable now, say, than a Hunter semillon of the same age. At just 11.5 per cent alcohol it’s less … Continue reading Wine review — Peter Lehmann and Mitchell →