Chris Shanahan: Wine review — Yering Station, Pewsey Vale and Hewitson

Yering Station Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2008 $28

De Bortoli Yarra Valley

Estate Grown Pinot Noir 2008 $38
Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 $50

The Rathbone and De Bortoli families make some of the best pinots in Australasia from mature Yarra Valley vines. The Rathbone wine, from Yering Station – first planted to vines by the Ryrie family in 1838 (after they’d been to Braidwood and Michelago) – is pure, silky and harmonious. It’s stunningly good for $28 and built to last in the cellar. The two De Bortoli wines show similar purity and harmony, though in a somewhat more savoury mould – especially the very complex reserve wine. They, too, should age well. Winemaker is Steve Webber, husband of Leanne De Bortoli.

Pewsey Vale Vineyard Eden Valley

Gewurztraminer 2009 $21–$25
Pinot Gris 2009 $21–$25

A little bit of gewurztraminer’s intensely musky, lychee-like flavour goes a long way. It’s the sort of wine to drink on its own once or twice a year. But if you think they’re all sweet and bland, you’ll be gobsmacked by this one – it’s dust dry, but with a lusciously viscous texture and a gripping, slightly firm finish. Fascinating indeed, but one glass may be enough. I suspect the Eden Valley might not be quite cool enough for pinot gris, a variety that struggles for flavour even in an ideal, cool climate. This one’s round and soft and pretty dry, but not overburdened with flavour.
Hewitson

Eden Valley Gun Metal Riesling 2009 $22
Adelaide Hills Lu Lu Sauvignon Blanc $22

Barossa-based Dean Hewitson makes lovely lean, taut, bone-dry whites from the Eden Valley (the hills to the east of the Barossa) and the Adelaide Hills, a notably cooler part of the same range, just south of Eden. The riesling is in the classic Eden style – moderate in alcohol with an intensely, citrusy/varietal flavour and austere, delicious dry finish. The sauvignon blanc is distinctly different from the in-your-face Marlborough style. It’s lower in alcohol, less fleshy and more herbal, savoury and light with a pleasantly tart finish. Like Dean’s beautiful Barossa reds these are meticulously well made regional specialties. See www.hewitson.com.au