Cowra part 1 of 2 — honey, they shrunk the wine industry

Two weeks ago a dozen independent Cowra winemakers visited Canberra. Their story is a microcosm of the shrinking act now underway in Australia as big makers pull the pin on grape contracts, export and local prices decline, and domestic tastes shift dramatically away from chardonnay to sauvignon blanc. Cowra, the group told me, had already … Continue reading Cowra part 1 of 2 — honey, they shrunk the wine industry

Wine review — Voyager Estate and Grant Burge

Voyager Estate Margaret River ‘Girt by Sea’ Cabernet Merlot 2007 $20–$24 Voyager Estate’s ‘Girt by Sea’ is to Margaret River what Majella’s ‘The Musician’ is to Coonawarra – a richly-flavoured, finely-structured, medium-bodied red built to drink now but without losing regional identity. ‘Girt by Sea’ reveals Margaret River’s greatest winemaking strength – blending cabernet sauvignon … Continue reading Wine review — Voyager Estate and Grant Burge

Jim Barry Wines, delicious old rieslings and a great Clare vineyard

In the Clare Valley a couple of weeks back Jim Barry Wines hosted its fiftieth anniversary celebrations. The highlight was a tasting of memorable Jim Barry, Leo Buring, Lindemans and Richmond Grove rieslings from vintages 1972 to 1998. And what lovely twists there were to the tasting: the beautiful old Leo Buring wines came from … Continue reading Jim Barry Wines, delicious old rieslings and a great Clare vineyard

Wine review — McLean’s Farmgate, Mount Majura and Cullen

McLean’s Farmgate Eden Valley Riesling 2008 $25 Bob McLean’s Farmgate topped my list of 14 South Australian 2008 rieslings judged at the recent Winewise Small Vignerons Awards here in Canberra. It’s a fresh, taut, finely structured, dry and lively style based on delicious lime-like varietal flavours. It should drink well for years, as these fine, … Continue reading Wine review — McLean’s Farmgate, Mount Majura and Cullen