I love wine. But I’ve never felt a wine moment as profound as that first encounter with truffle. In winter 2009, local truffle grower, Wayne Haslam, arrived at Chateau Shanahan, beaming with a secret knowledge. He knew the coming effect on me – and a day later, on the Food and Wine team – of … Continue reading Truffle and wine moments — Canberra Times truffle dinner 13 August 2013
Peter Lehmann Drawcard Barossa Shiraz Mataro 2010 $20–$25 It’s hard to believe now that so much of the Barossa’s wine once disappeared anonymously into multi-regional blends. But the area’s recognition as one of the world’s great makers of shiraz, grenache and mourvedre (aka mataro) opens up the palette of wine styles available. Increasing numbers of … Continue reading Wine review — Peter Lehmann, Port Phillip Estate and Cappa Stone
Mad Fish Gold Turtle Margaret River Chardonnay 2012 $14.25–$15 A mad fish and a gold turtle seem unlikely companions in a wine name. But the wine, from Jeff and Amy Burch’s Howard Park Winery, Margaret River, offers extraordinarily good drinking at a bargain price. Sourced from the Wilyabrup and Karridale sub-regions, Gold Turtle Chardonnay offers … Continue reading Wine review — Mad Fish, Yalumba and Heartland
Peter Lehmann’s flagship red, Stonewell shiraz, carries his profile on label; and I can never open a bottle without thinking of Lehmann, his witty quips and his profound influence on the Barossa Valley. In the end, the company he founded belonged to the Swiss group, Hess Family Estates. But that was an outcome Lehmann engineered … Continue reading A tribute to Peter Lehmann
The Rhone Valley white variety, viognier, is and will remain a niche variety, representing around two per cent of total white plantings in Australia. Nevertheless, it remains an important variety, principally because of its close relationship to our national red hero, shiraz. The relationship is both genetic and vinous. In Wine Grapes (Penguin Group, 2012), … Continue reading Viognier — genetic and vinous buddy of shiraz
Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Henri) 2010 $20–$25 The success of new world varietal labelling convinced some French producers to follow suit. They saw, for example, that “pinot noir” added to “Bourgogne” (Burgundy) enlightened those not up on French wine lore – essentially that regional names like Burgundy also convey varietal meaning for those in the know. … Continue reading Wine review — Henri, Climbing and Brokenwood
Red Knot by Shingleback Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 $11.39–$15 That the discounters frequently trim the price of Red Knot is a sure sign of popularity. And popularity, in this instance, proves that Australia’s savvy palates know a bargain when they see one. This is a great example of modern Australian winemaking – starting with good fruit, … Continue reading Wine review — Red Knot, Chapel Hill and Coombe Farm
Vasse Felix Heytesbury 2010 $86–$90 Margaret River, Western Australia Dr Tom Cullity established Vasse Felix at Margaret River in 1967. He selected the region largely on Dr John Gladstones’ 1965 paper likening the Margaret River climate to Bordeaux’s. The Homes a Court family purchased the property in 1987. And today winemaker Virginia Willcock seems well … Continue reading Wine review — Vasse Felix, Courabyra, Chapel Hill, Half Moon and Grant Burge
A few strokes on Lisa Perotti-Brown’s laptop – 100 points – gave the world its headline – “The perfect Grange”. And like catatonic chooks, eyes glued to a single point, the world’s editors obsessed on one wine of the seven Penfolds released on 2 May. What a lot of fun they missed. But Grange makes … Continue reading Penfolds Grange 2008 leads a distinguished line up
Andrew Thomas Kiss Shiraz 2011 $60 Pokolbin Estate vineyard, Hunter Valley, NSW Andrew Thomas released four Hunter shirazes this month, each outstanding in its own way. But none matches the dimension of Kiss, Thomas’s flagship from a vineyard planted in 1969. The wine presents another unique, and idiosyncratic, face of Australian shiraz, far removed, say, … Continue reading Wine review — Andrew Thomas, Tyrrell’s, Hewitson, Half Moon, Scarborough and Vasse Felix