Category Archives: Beer

Canberra’s currant affair goes sweet and sour

13 April 2016Beer, Beer review, PeopleChris Shanahan

Pact and Pen's new brew — Pact and Pen’s new brew

Hello. I’m Tracy Grimshaw. This is a currant affair

A new sour beer made by two Canberra brewers goes under the Pact and Pen label as “Hello, I’m Tracy Grimshaw. This is a currant affair”.

Pact Brewing Company’s Kevin Hingston and the Wig and Pen’s Frazer Brown created the sour, redcurrant-flavoured brew for Melbourne pub, The Ale House Project.

The beer is being served during the Ale House’s “This is red” event between 11 and 24 April.

Hingston says with the Melbourne launch now done, Tracy will go on tap at the Wig and Pen, ANU, and the Durham Arms, Kingston.

The beer, styled on Germany’s Berliner Weisse, derives its sourness from the residues of micro-flora, including lactobacillus, living on the surface of cracked grain. The grain, which also nourished the fast-breeding microbes, was added to a mash of wheat and pilsner malts – all seeped at a Jacuzzi-like 40 degrees before being fermented.

Hingston says the beer, while about double the strength of traditional Berliner Weisse, retains the style’s delicate sourness, offset by the sweet redcurrant.

Beer reviews

Thornbridge Kipling South Pacific Ale (UK) 500ml $9.45
Like coals to Newcastle, the UK’s Thornbridge brewery uses hops from Nelson, NZ. The hops give a distinctive fruity aroma to a beautifully harmonious, golden-coloured ale. The lively palate really sings with smooth, sweet malt, offset by flavoursome and lingeringly bitter, refreshing hops. This is a wonderful, balanced example of a beer revealing the full gamet of a unique hop variety’s aroma, flavour and bitterness.

Schlenkerla Oak Smoke Doppelbock (Germany) 500ml $7.98
Schlenkerla brewery of Bamberg, Germany, specialises in Rauchbier – an ale made from malt kilned with beech smoke. The brewery’s extra-strong (eight per cent alcohol) oak-smoked variant provides a slightly more subtle smokey experience. Charcuterie-like aromas and flavours permeate the opulent, malty, bitter palate.

More craft brewers, fewer wineries

6 April 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Australia’s 250 craft brewers employ 1200

As per-capita beer consumption in Australia declines rapidly, the number of craft brewers continues to increase. IbisWorld says, “Robust demand for craft beer has resulted in the number of craft breweries increasing over the past decade to 250 in 2015–16.

In contrast, reports the Australian and New Zealand Wine Industry Directory 2016, winery numbers recorded two consecutive years of decline to 2468 in 2016, down from the all-time high of 2573 in 2014.

According to IbisWorld, Australia’s widely dispersed craft breweries employ around 1200 people and enjoy annual sales of around $377million – about 9.5 per cent of the $4billion beer market.

The higher prices paid for craft beers, says IbisWorld, means industry revenues continued to grow – albeit at a sluggish 0.2 per cent a year between 2011 and 2016 – despite declining per-capita consumption.

Beer reviews

Fuller’s 1845 Ale (UK) 500ml $8

Amber malt and Golding hops set the colour and flavours for Fuller’s 6.3 per-cent-alcohol, bottle-conditioned 1845 ale. It pours a deep, glowing rosewood colour, blanketed with a steady, creamy head. The opulent, treacly, sweet-malt palate melds harmoniously with deep, strong, bitter hops. It’s a warming cold-weather beer, served at around 10 degrees.

Graf Arco Pilsener (Germany) 330ml $4.95

Graf Arco provides a textbook example of the German pils style: pale lemon-gold colour; pleasant grainy, malty aroma, seasoned with a herbal, hop character; and a palate of intense hops bitterness. Sweet malt flavours offset the bitterness to some extent, but the hops bitterness lingers on, clean and refreshing.

Top beer judge calls for balanced beers

30 March 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Highly flavoured brews need balance

If you thought the hoppy IPA you downed last night finished all hops and bitterness, you’re in good company.

Little Creature brewer and head judge of the Australian International Beer Awards, Warren Pawsey, has called for balance in beers – especially highly flavoured brews laced with hops, spice or smoke.

He was speaking at The Institute of Brewing and Distilling 2016 Convention, held 14–18 March in Sydney.

In brewsnews.com.au, James Atkins writes, “Pawsey said hopped beers such as India Pale Ales often lack malt sweetness on the finish giving the beer a thin body, which means hop flavour and bitterness dominate”.

Pawsey believes the beers “aren’t train wrecks but many of them could be tuned up to be a bit more balanced”. Pawsey’s solution to the problem, reports Atkins, is in “improving raw materials selection and brewhouse processes”.

Beer reviews

Guinness 1798 Limited Edition Double Extra Stout 750ml $49.90
Perhaps “limited edition” refers to its availabiliy in Australia only through Dan Murphy outlets. It’s a beefed up Dublin-brewed Guinness, black as ebony, with a warming nine per-cent alcohol content. Bitter–sweet malt, roasted-grain and dark-chocolate flavours easily take on the alcohol and hops, leaving a bitter chocolate aftertaste.

Castlemaine XXXX Gold 375ml stubby 6-pack $15
Full-strength VB and mid-strength XXXX Gold arm-wrestle for top spot among Australian beer drinkers. XXXX Gold impresses as it retains good beer flavours, bitterness and balance despite its 3.5 per cent alcohol content. It’s the antithesis of modern uber-hoppy styles, but it refreshes while delivering just one standard drink per stubby.

Murrumbateman brewery a Shaw thing

16 March 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Brewpub to open late 2017

Canberra district is to get a new brewery in the heart of Murrumbateman wine country.

It’s the brainchild of developer and proprietor of Shaw Vineyard Estate, Graeme Shaw. He says a brewpub, with restaurant, will be part of Fairlie, a mixed residential–tourist development on Murrumbateman’s north-western edge.

The project will include 110 houses on blocks of “1200 square metres plus”, says Shaw. And a planned commercial development will comprise a 52-room hotel, a visitor centre, cafes and restaurants, a bakery, a medical centre, and park as well as the brewery.

Housing construction on stage 1 of the residential area, along with site works on stage 2, commenced in early March. And by the end of April Shaw expects to lodge a development application for the commercial component.

Shaw believes the development, on the north-western boundary of Murrumbateman, will be the “first expansion of the village since the 1870s”.

The commercial site sits on the corner of the new Fairlie access road and the Barton Highway. The hotel will be on the right hand side of the new road, opposite the brewery and other components.

“The brewery will be prominent and clearly visible from the highway. It’ll be part of a significant tourist attraction supporting local wineries”, say Shaw.

The brewery, targeted at tourists, will produce draft beer for consumption in its bar and restaurant, and packaged beer for the take-away trade and potentially wider distribution.

Shaw expects construction to commence during the last quarter of 2016, with first drinks flowing by spring 2017.

Shaw is currently in discussions with Fyshwick brewer, Christoph Zierholz.

Beer reviews

Rabbit and Spaghetti Brewing Co The Fox Hop and Rye Lager 500ml $11.80–$13
We’d all like to believe in Grange for $10 or – as Naked Wine (owners of this beer label) claims – that their customer-funded business model translates to lower prices and higher quality. It’s a clever, and apparently successful, vertically integrated direct-marketing business. The Fox offers a full, malty flavour with assertive hops bitterness.

4 Pines Brewing Company Pale Ale 500ml 6-pack $20
Drinking our last bottle of 4 Pines on its expiry date tested its durability. The tropical- and citrus-like hops aromas enjoyed in the young brew had faded, leaving the rich, sweet malt flavours to the fore. However, the hops bitterness remained, offsetting the malt sweetness perfectly on the rich, creamy palate.

Lion lowers beer alcohol content, risks consumer backlash

9 March 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Drinkers will have the final say

Success or not of Lion’s decision to cut the alcohol content of three of its beers will ultimately be decided by beer drinkers.

Although Lion bravely declared the flavour of XXXX Bitter, Tooheys Extra Dry and James Boag’s Premium Light would not change, recent history suggests otherwise.

CUB’s VB lost market share rapidly following a reduction in its alcohol content in 2009. A few years later, CUB returned the beer to its original 4.9 per cent alcohol content and sales picked up.

Just as CUB did in 2009, Lion cites containment of costs for the change. Production costs would fall instantly as beer is taxed on its alcohol content. The savings could bolster company profit, fund new investments or maintain crucial retail price points.

XXXX Bitter and Toohey’s Extra Dry will change from 4.6 per cent alcohol by volume to 4.4, while James Boag’s Premium Light will fall from 2.7 to 2.5.

Reviews

Hahn Ultra 330ml 6-pack $10.90–$13
Flavour vanishes as alcohol content declines, presenting a challenge to brewers of low-alcohol beer – especially of dry brews, not propped up by sugar. Hahn’s new Ultra (0.9 per cent alcohol) does a good job of it: light bodied, dry and refreshing, it offers real beer flavour and mild bitterness, albeit without the body of full-strength brews.

4 Pines Imperial IPA 500ml $11
From the grey world of ultra-low-alcohol beer, we move to the gawdy world of high-alchol IPA. 4 Pines Imperial IPA (9 per cent alcohol) radiates sweet malt and hop-derived tropical-fruit aromas. These flow through to an equally brazen, malt-sweet, syrupy palate laced with intense, lingering hops bitterness.

Katoomba’s Carrington turns to brewing

2 March 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Mountain walk, mountain ale

Nothing builds a thirst like a walk in the Blue Mountains – typically starting and ending with a 450 vertical-metre descent and ascent.

And nothing quenches the thirst better than ultra-fresh ale brewed at the new Katoomba Brewing Company.

The brewery forms part of the Carrrington Hotel complex, owned by Mark Jarvis and Michael Brischetto. The complex includes the restored 1883 Hotel, the adjacent old Katoomba power house – home of the brewery and the Carrington Cellar and Deli – and, next door to the Carrington, the Old City Bank Bar and Brasserie.

The latter offered two outstanding beers on our visit: a rich, malty American pale ale (5.2 per cent alcohol, reviewed below) and the lighter, refreshing Great Western Golden Ale (4.2 per cent alcohol).

The brewery expects to expand its range to 10 beers, available on tap throughout the Carrington complex and in take-away “growlers” at the Cellar and Deli.

Reviews

Anchor Brewing Co Liberty Ale 355ml 6-pack $25
San Francisco’s Liberty Ale commemorates Paul Revere’s historic ride. A beautfully balanced, strong ale (5.9 per cent alcohol), it offers fruity, golden-syrup-like malt flavours on a creamy, soft palate. The citrus character of cascade hops cuts through the malt and provides balancing bitterness. If you drink more than one, stay off your horse.

Katoomba Brewing Co Great White Fleet American Pale Ale
Brewed in the old power house behind Katoomba’s historic Carrington hotel, Great White Fleet American Pale Ale provided rich, malty warmth on a cold, wet Blue Mountains day. At 5.2 per cent alcohol, it’s at the tame end of the robust American Pale Ale spectrum, but well balanced and refreshingly hoppy and bitter.

Ulladulla’s little brewery

24 February 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Cupitt’s brewery and winery

Breweries. They’re popping up everywhere. And what a bonus it was to find Cupitt beers out on the western edge of Ulladulla.

We’d called in for lunch and a glass or two of Rosie Cupitt’s semillon –which she grows next to the restaurant and makes in the cellar underneath (with help from sons Wally and Tom).

The boys also make beer, which is served at the bar–patio area next to the restaurant – a marvelous place to drink ultra-fresh ale and enjoy views over the vineyards to the Budawangs and Burrill Lake.

The Cupitt’s write, “All our beers are single batch and brewed in a 300-litre microbrewery on the property…unpasteurised, unfiltered and preservative free”. They offer the beers on tap at the restaurant and bar and in take-away 2-litre, refillable “growlers”.

Reviews

Cupitt India Pale Ale 400ml glass $10
Brothers Tom and Wally brew their full-bore IPA at the family winery-brewery-restaurant complex at Ulladulla. It’s available on tap and in take-away 2-litre “growlers” ($32, including $8 container deposit). This is a true west-coast IPA style, big on citrus hops aroma, intense, lingering bitterness and full, rich, round malt flavours.

Anchor Brewing Co Porter 355ml $6
What better end to a big walk on a cold, wet day than a warm, rich porter. The historic Carrington Hotel, Katoomba, serves San Francisco’s Anchor porter in its Old City Bank pub, alongside locally brewed beers. This is warm, buoyant, luxurious porter – each mouthful a juicy, malt joy.

Blackberry rye ale for Canberra multicultural festival

10 February 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Pact and Pen Monkey Drummer Blackberry Rye Ale

The Canberra Brewers stand at this weekend’s multicultural festival features a unique beer created by two local brewers, Pact Brewing Co and the Wig and Pen.

Pact and Pen Monkey Drummer Blackberry Rye Ale will be available at the stand, on tap at the Wig and Pen during the festival, and, for a short time in take-away “growlers” from Plonk at Fyshwick Markets.

A couple of months ago, Pact Brewing Co’s Kevin Hingston raised the idea of a special festival beer with the Wig’s brewer, Frazer Brown.

Together they came up with a recipe for a fruity, low-bitterness beer to appeal to “people who think they don’t like beer”, says Hingston.

They brewed the fruity, slightly sweet ale at the Wig using about two thirds malted rye, with malted wheat and barley and 40 kilograms of fresh blackberries grown by Hingston’s father.

Beer reviews

Nail Brewing Golden IPA 330ml $6.30
Nail Brewing (Perth) tacks away from the blended IPA style and instead uses a single pale malt and only one hop variety, Melba. The mid-golden colour ale combines floral and citrus hop aromas with the sweetness of high alcohol (seven per cent). The opulent palate matches the aroma precisely, though the hops sit gentle and subtle for an IPA.

La Sirene Brewing Fleur Folie 375ml $8.50
Unfiltered, unpaseurised and referment in bottle, Fleur Folie pours deep golden, with a cloudy yeast haze evenly distributed and a prolific white head. The funky, floral aroma leads to a warm palate combining powerful malt with spicy, tart, sour and bitter seasonings that linger in the finish.

Honesty’s great, but stale beer sucks

27 January 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

US legal actions highlight beer paradox

Two US beer suits in the latter half of 2015 underscore a paradox: deceptive as it may be to present US-brewed “imports” as German or Australian, offering the real thing could mean drinkers get an inferior product.

In the first suit, Anheuser-Busch InBev agreed to refund cash to customers and to alter the packaging of its US-brewed Beck’s beer.

Following the announcement, we arranged a masked tasting to compare Australian brewed Beck’s with the real German brew. The fresh Australian product cleaned up the stale import.

In the latest suit, announced in December, New Yorker Leif Nelson filed a class action against Miller brewing, claiming he was misled into believing the beer was from Australia, despite being brewed in Fort Worth Texas.

Good luck to him, as we deserve honesty in marketing. But be careful what you wish for. Or, before you buy, at least check the best-buy-before date on imported beer.

Reviews

Brewcult Imperial Milk Stout 500ml $14.90
Brewcult (Derrimut, Victoria) infuses its milk stout with “espresso and cold-steep coffee from our friends at Axil Coffer Roasters”. The coffee-like character of most stouts comes from the use of dark-roasted barley malt. But by using real coffee, Brewcult turns its milk stout into an espresso double-shot, two-sugar lookalike.

4 Pines Brewing Co India Summer Ale 375ml can 4-pack $15
4 Pines Brewing of Manly, NSW, brews a wide spectrum of stlyes. The lightest of the bunch, India Summer Ale, offers light body (4.2 per cent alcohol) and a vibrant, fresh palate, accentuated by a floral and resiny punch of hops. This builds the flavour, and gives a pleasantly tart, dry hoppy finish.

Byron Bay’s IPA fixation

20 January 2016Beer, Beer reviewChris Shanahan

Stone and Wood seizes IPA opportunity

Spotting an opportunity to brew and sell a fresh US west-coast IPA style locally, Byron Bay’s Stone and Wood Brewery recently established a new company devoted entirely to IPA.

The new venture, Fixation Brewing Company, rolled out the first kegs of its potent style in December 2015 and says a packaged version will be available in March 2016.

The style is growing rapidly in Australia, as it is in the US. In America, IPA volumes grew tenfold in volume between 2008 and 2015. In the same period, craft beers as a whole tripled in volume.

The powerful IPA style focuses on the hop flower’s wide aromatic and flavour range and intense bitterness – generally offset, by necessity, against luxurious malt and high alcohol.

Because the wonderful hop aromatics fade fairly quickly, IPA needs to be drunk really fresh before the hops descend into a hard bitterness – as they have in the Adelaide Hills IPA reviewed today.

Reviews

2 Brothers Kung Foo Rice Lager 330ml $4.90
Moorabin-based 2 Brothers Brewery uses rice in the brew to produce a clean, light-bodied lager. However, the brewers build delicious citrus and tropical-fruit flavour into the beer with hops. However, the hops season the beer without taking over the delicate palate and dry, moderately bitter finish

Prancing Pony Hopwork Orange IPA 330ml $5.50
IPAs often match powerful malt and turbo hops with high alcohol. But Prancing Horse, from the Adelaide Hills, restrains the alcohol to 4.8 per cent. The bottle, purchased in Canberra, may have been old, as the fruity, aromatic hop notes had given way to a resiny, dry bitterness.